HIGHLIGHTS OF SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK, APRIL 25, 2017 “MAGNIFICENT JEWELS, INCLUDING THE LEGENDARY STOTESBURY EMERALD” SALE

Sotheby’s New York, April 25, 2017 Magnificent Jewels Spring Sale, is significantly titled “Magnificent Jewels, Including the Legendary Stotesbury Emerald,” highlighting jewelry collections of distinguished provenance that will be on offer at these auctions. Some of the iconic jewels of distinguished provenance that will feature at the auctions include the 34-carat Magnificent and Legendary Stotesbury Emerald, the hexagon-shaped Classic Colombian emerald, presently mounted on a ring by Harry Winston and previously in the collections of three extraordinary American jewelry collectors – Evalyn Walsh McLean, Eva Stotesbury and May Bonfils Stanton. An Art Deco sapphire and diamond brooch by Cartier, formerly in the collection of Mrs. John E. Rovensky, is another iconic jewel that will feature in the sale. Other significant pieces include three jewels by Cartier and Boucheron from the Collection of Frederica Vanderbilt Webb and a citrine suite by Sterlé formerly from the collection of Queen Narriman of Egypt, the second wife of King Farouk and the last Queen of Egypt.

A total of 257 lots will be on offer at the auction, ranging in estimate from as low as USD 3,000 to a maximum of USD 5,500,000 and features rare and exquisite design masterpieces, by world renowned designers/jewelry houses such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, Buccelati, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, David Webb, Sterlé, Schlumberger, Oscar Heyman & Brothers, Mauboussin, René Lalique and Jar. The array of jewelry on offer include bracelets, bangle bracelets, brooches, earrings, earclips, necklaces, pendant necklaces and rings, as well as parures and demi-parures. The variety of gemstones set on the jewelry include colored and colorless diamonds, colored gemstones such as emeralds,sapphires, rubies, amethyst, chalcedony, citrine, jade, lapis lazuli, moonstone, onyx, peridot, garnet and tourmaline, as well as organic gems such as natural and cultured pearls, corals and mother-of-pearls.

ICONIC JEWELS OF DISTINGUISHED PROVENANCE

LOT 108 – THE MAGNIFICENT AND LEGENDARY STOTESBURY EMERALD INCORPORATED IN A “PLATINUM, EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING BY HARRY WINSTON.”

Lot 108 - Different views of the Stotesbury Emerald Ring by Harry Winston
Lot 108 – Different views of the Stotesbury Emerald Ring by Harry Winston

The “Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Ring, Harry Winston” incorporating the Stotesbury Emerald is the top emerald lot and the 5th lot by value iin the sale. The size 5½, platinum ring signed Winston, is claw-set with the 34.40 carat, hexagon shaped, richly saturated, medium deep, very slightly bluish-green, slightly to moderately included, Stotesbury Emerald, highlighted by two rows of pear-shaped colorless diamonds, mounted on the gallery of the ring but at slightly lower levels. The pear-shaped diamonds have an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, a color-grade of E to F and a clarity-grade of VVS to VS. AGL report no. 1082224 accompanying the lot states that the emerald is of classic Colombian origin, with insignificant clarity enhancement of the traditional type.

Evalyn Walsh McLean wearing the Stotesbury Emerald as a pendant with the Star of the East Diamond
Evalyn Walsh McLean wearing the Stotesbury Emerald as a pendant with the Star of the East Diamond

 

Mr. & Mrs. Edward Stotesbury featured in the 1918 Vogue magazine
Mr. & Mrs. Edward Stotesbury featured in the 1918 Vogue magazine
May Bonfils Stanton, who purchased the Stotesbury Emerald as a ring from Harry Winston in 1947
May Bonfils Stanton, who purchased the Stotesbury Emerald as a ring from Harry Winston in 1947

The Stotesbury Emerald was formerly in the collection of Evalyn Walsh McLean, who wore the emerald as a pendant with the Star of the East Diamond, circa 1908. Subsequently, the emerald entered the collection of Eva Stotesbury, who around the year 1926, had Pierre Cartier create a suite of emerald jewels for her which included the Stotesbury Emerald. In 1947 the Stotesbury Emerald entered the collection of May Bonfils Stanton, who purchased the emerald as a ring from Harry Winston. In 1971, the Stotesbury Emerald ring was auctioned at a Parke-Bernet Galleries, Inc. Magnificent Jewelry sale, assigned lot 97, and designated as being from The Estate of May Bonfils Stanton.

LOT 105 – “PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, PARIS” FROM THE COLLECTION OF MRS. JOHN E. ROVENSKY FORMERLY MRS. MORTON F. PLANT

Lot 105 - Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Cartier, Paris
Lot 105 – Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Cartier, Paris

The Art Deco “Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Cartier, Paris” designed in the 1930s has a pre-sale estimate of USD 200,000 – 300,000. The Cartier brooch of foliate design is set with two rectangular emerald-cut sapphires of medium deep blue and violetish-blue color weighing respectively 10.40 and 7.75 carats, accented by round-cut, baguette-cut, old European-cut, pear and marquise-shaped diamonds with a total weight of approximately 13.95 carats. The pear and marquise-cut diamonds are approximately I-K color with a VS-SI clarity grade. The round and baguette diamonds are approximately G-I color with a VS-SI clarity. AGL report no. CS 1081150, A and B, state that the sapphires are of Ceylon (Sri Lanka)origin, with no indications of heating. The brooch signed Cartier Paris bears number 07529 and also has French assay and maker’s marks.

The Art Deco Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch by Cartier, Paris featured as lot 125 in the sale of Magnificent Jewelry of the Late Mrs. John E. Rovensky, Formerly Mrs. Morton F. conducted by Parke-Bernet Galleries, Inc. on January 23, 1957.

LOTS 64, 65 AND 66 FROM THE COLLECTION OF FREDERICA VANDERBILT WEBB

Lot 64 - Platinum Onyx and Diamond Cliquet, Cartier
Lot 64 – Platinum Onyx and Diamond Cliquet, Cartier

Lot 64 is a “Platinum Onyx and Diamond Cliquet, Cartier,” with an estimate of USD 15,000 – 20,000. The 3 1/8 in. cliquet brooch, designed by Cartier circa 1920, signed Cartier and numbered 2035, consists of a carved almost rectangular onyx ring, framed by a pair of double diamond-set bands, towards the ends of the ring, and a shield-shaped motif set with old European and single-cut diamonds, secured by a diamond-set circular ring to the sides of the rectangular onyx ring. Total weight of colorless diamonds approximately 2.80 carats, color grade G to H color and clarity grade VS to SI.

Lot 65 -Platinum, Gold, Diamond and Ruby Pendant-Necklace, Cartier
Lot 65 -Platinum, Gold, Diamond and Ruby Pendant-Necklace, Cartier

Lot 65, another jewel from the collection of Frederica Vanderbilt Webb is titled, “Platinum, Gold, Diamond and Ruby Pendant-Necklace, Cartier,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 15,000 – 20,000. Designed by Cartier in 1910 during the Art Nouveau period (1895-1915), the 16½ inches (41.9 cm) link chain necklace, suspends a ruby and diamond pendant designed as a floral wreath made of 11 rosettes, set with small old-European, single-cut and rose-cut diamonds, centering an antique heart-shaped diamond weighing approximately 1.00 carat, decorated with two intersecting arrows, whose yellow gold heads are set with rubies and the tail feathers of the arrows set with old-European, single-cut and rose-cut diamonds. The wreath is mounted on the ruby-set yellow gold vertical ribbon hanging from the ruby-set yellow gold bow motif, by which the pendant is attached to the link chain. The vertical ribbon ends below the wreath in a diamond set double bow-motif from which an antique pear-shaped diamond is suspended surrounded by a pear-shaped yellow gold frame set with calibré-cut rubies. Total weight of old-European, single-cut and rose-cut diamonds approximately 1.30 carats, color grade H to I and clarity grade VS to Si.The rubies are medium slightly purplish red and eye-clean to slightly included.

Lot 66 - Silver-Topped Gold, Diamond and Colored Stone Necklace, Frédéric Boucheron, Paris
Lot 66 – Silver-Topped Gold, Diamond and Colored Stone Necklace, Frédéric Boucheron, Paris

 

Lot 66 - Flowr Vase Pendant enlarged
Lot 66 – Flowr Vase Pendant enlarged

Lot 66 is the third piece of jewelry from the collection of Frederica Vanderbilt Webb designed by Boucheron, titled, “Silver-Topped Gold, Diamond and Colored Stone Necklace, Frédéric Boucheron, Paris,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 30,000-50,000. The 13 ins. (33 cm) late 19th-century necklace is designed as a meandering vine, with a bow-shaped clasp, set with rose-cut diamonds, suspending a pendant in the form of a flower vase. The flower vase pendant is suspended by a bow motif, also set with rose-cut diamonds. The bottom of the vase is set with a demi-briolette diamond of dimensions 13.5 by 8.4 mm, approximately K to L color and SI clarity. The flower motifs inside the basket are set with variously cut rubies, sapphires and emeralds and also rose-cut diamonds. The rubies are a medium to medium-deep pinkish red and slightly to moderately included. The sapphires are a medium-deep violetish blue and slightly included. The emeralds are a bright medium green and slightly included. The rose-cut diamonds are mostly near-colorless. Length of pendant approximately 1 7/8 inches (4.76 cm).

Lot 107 – 18K GOLD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE AND BRACELET, STERLE, PARIS – FORMERLY FROM THE COLLECTION OF QUEEN NARRIMAN OF EGYPT

Queen Narriman of Egypt, second wife of King Farouk and last Queen of Egypt
Queen Narriman of Egypt, second wife of King Farouk and last Queen of Egypt

The 15 ins. (38.1 cm), 18k gold necklace designed by Sterlé around the year 1950, is unsigned but numbered 2444, and has French assay marks. The necklace designed as a stylized wreath has four segments, two identical lower segments and two identical upper segments. Each of the two identical lower segments have two central rows of 18k gold navicular areas placed end to end, with a round single cut colorless diamond set inside each navicle. Eleven pear-shaped claw-set citrines are placed on either side of the double central rows, to which they are attached. The 18k gold frame of the citrines are also attached to one another on the sides. The citrines attached at the center of each segment are larger and decrease in size towards the ends of each segment. Each identical lower segment has 22 pear-shaped citrines, making a total of 44 citrines.

Lot 107 - 18K GOLD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, STERLE, PARIS
Lot 107 – 18K GOLD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, STERLE, PARIS

Likewise each of the two identical upper segments have two central rows of 18k gold navicular areas placed end to end, each set with a round single-cut colorless diamond. Twelve pear-shaped claw-set citrines are placed on either side of the central rows. These citrines are not only attached to the central rows but also to one another on the sides. Here too citrines attached at the center of the segment are larger and decrease in size towards the ends of the segment. Each identical upper segment has 24 pear-shaped citrines, making a total of 48 citrines.The center of the clasp at the rear is set with a heart-shaped citrine surounded by 10 round single-cut diamonds. Hence the necklace has a total of 44 + 48 + 1 = 93 citrines, 92 of which are pear-shaped and one heart-shaped. The citrines range in color from light yellow to medium orange-yellow, and are eye-clean to very slightly included with some minor color zoning seen upon close inspection. The diamonds are approximately F-H color, VS-SI clarity.

LOT 107 - 18K GOLD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, STERLE, PARIS
LOT 107 – 18K GOLD, CITRINE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, STERLE, PARIS

The 6¼ inch (15.875 cm), 18k gold bracelet of matching design with the necklace, has a central double row of 18k gold navicular areas placed end to end, with a round single cut colorless diamond set inside each navicle. The central double row extends right round the bracelet. Large pear-shaped citrines are placed right round the bracelet, attached to the central double row, and also attached to one another on either side of the 18k gold frame. Gold link tassels arising as a bundle from one side of the bracelet, each tassel ending in a pear-shaped frame set with a round single-cut diamond.

COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS

Lot 82 - Extraordinary Pair of Platinum and Diamond Earrings
Lot 82 – Extraordinary Pair of Platinum and Diamond Earrings

Top highlight of the sale is a colorless diamond lot assigned Lot No. 82, titled “Extraordinary Pair of Platinum and Diamond Earrings,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 4,500,000 – 5,500,000. Each of the matching pair of earrings is set with a square emerald-cut, D-color, Internally Flawless diamond weighing respectively 20.29 and 20.02 carats, with excellent polish and symmetry, highlighted by a row of smaller circular cut diamonds, set along the octagonal outline of the central diamond. The two square emerald-cut diamonds are topped by two smaller D-color, square emerald-cut diamonds, each weighing 1.01 carats and the linear suspension above are also set with smaller circular cut diamonds. Total weight of small circular-cut diamonds is approximately 0.70 carats.

Two GIA reports bearing respectively Nos. 1162363720 and 2165363731, state that the 20.29 carat and 20.02 carat diamonds are D color, Internally Flawless, with Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Each report is accompanied by a letter stating that the diamond is Type IIa, which confirms the D-color status of the diamonds.

Other significant colorless diamond lots include lots 51, 256 and 251.

Lot 51 - Magnificent Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Earrings
Lot 51 – Magnificent Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Earrings

Lot 51 titled “Magnificent Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Earrings,” is another colorless diamond lot, which is also the second highlight of the sale based on an estimated value of between USD 1,000,000 to 1,500,000. Each of the matching pair of pendant earrings, suspends a matching pear-shaped, D-color, Flawless clarity diamond weighing respectively 7.36 and 7.03 carats, with excellent polish and symmetry, topped by three circular-cut blue sapphires each, with a total weight of approximately 1.00 carat and a linear platinum suspension above the sapphires.

Lot 51 - Another View of the Magnificent Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Earrings
Lot 51 – Another View of the Magnificent Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Earrings

GIA report nos. 1182101055 and 6187101114 accompanying the lot state that the diamonds are both D color, Flawless, with Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Diamond type determination letters appended as annexures state that both diamonds have been determined to be Type lla, which confirms the D-color status of the diamonds. The six circular-cut blue sapphires are a medium light slightly grayish blue in color.

Lot 256 - Platinum and Diamond Necklace
Lot 256 – Platinum and Diamond Necklace

Lot 256, the property of an important private collector is a “Platinum and Diamond Necklace,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 400,000 – 600,000. The 15 ins. (38.1 cm), choker length, platinum, rivière necklace is of graduated design set with 70 emerald-cut diamonds of total approximate weight of 87.70 carats. The square emerald-cut colorless diamonds ranging in color-grade from F to I color and clarity grade VVS to VS gradually decrease in size from the front to the rear of the necklace. The three largest diamonds weigh respectively 2.72, 2.56 and 2.39 carats. The smallest diamond weighs approximately 0.60 carats. The central large diamond is fitted with a pendant hook. The necklace clasp as well as the pendant hook behind central diamond fitted with safety closures.

Lot 251 - Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, France
Lot 251 – Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, France

Lot 251, titled “Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, France,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 400,000 – 600,000 is another significant colorless diamond lot of the sale. The size 6, Art Deco platinum ring designed around the year 1920, is set with a 10.27-carat, rectangular emerald-cut, D-color, VS1-clarity diamond flanked by three baguette-cut blue sapphires of gradually decreasing size, on either side. The eye-clean sapphires have a medium-deep blue color. GIA report no. 2175733898 accompanying the ring states that the diamond is D color, and VS1 clarity. Diamond type classification letter appended as annexure to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be Type lla, which confirms its D-color status. The ring bears French assay and partial French workshop marks.

Lot 251 -Art Deco Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, France, with the ART Deco New York Chrysler Building in the background, both depicting geometric features characteristic of this period
Lot 251 -Art Deco Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, France, with the ART Deco New York Chrysler Building in the background, both depicting geometric features characteristic of this period

Fine jewelry from the Art Deco period, featured diamonds of varying sizes, along with colorful precious and semiprecious gemstones, such as rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Such gemstones were popular for their vibrant colors and because they contrasted one another beautifully. Geometric shapes, such as trilliant-cut, emerald-cut, and Asscher-cut, were commonly selected to match the angular look of Art Deco. Rectangular, baguette-cut diamonds covered entire pieces of jewelry for an impressive sparkling effect. Designers also used colorful natural stones, such as jade, onyx, and carnelian, and even pearls and coral. White metals became popular due to their futuristic appeal, so platinum and white-gold jewelry is prevalent in Art-Deco styles.

COLORED DIAMOND LOTS 

Significant colored diamond highlights include lots 101, 87, 88 and 106.

Lot 101 - Rare Platinum, Fancy Vivid Green Diamond and Diamond Ring
Lot 101 – Rare Platinum, Fancy Vivid Green Diamond and Diamond Ring

Lot 101 – “Rare Platinum, Fancy Vivid Green Diamond and Diamond Ring” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 1,000,000 – 1,500,000 is the top highlight of colored diamond lots. The size 6¼, platinum ring is set with a cut-cornered square mixed-cut, extremely rare fancy-vivid green, natural color, SI2-clarity diamond weighing 1.64 carats, flanked by two cut-cornered triangle-shaped, F to G color, VS-clarity colorless to near-colorless diamonds of total approximate weight of 0.65 carats. GIA report no. 5171976742 accompanying the lot, states that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Green, Natural Color and SI2 clarity.

lot 87 - Important Rose Gold and Fancy Pink Diamond Pendant
lot 87 – Important Rose Gold and Fancy Pink Diamond Pendant

 

lot 87 - Important Rose Gold and Fancy Pink Diamond Pendant and the Link Chain
lot 87 – Important Rose Gold and Fancy Pink Diamond Pendant and the Link Chain

Lot 87 is another significant colored diamond lot, titled “Important Rose Gold and Fancy Pink Diamond Pendant,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 1,000,000 – 2,000,000 and the 4th highlight of the sale by value. The pendant is set with a pear-shaped, fancy-pink, natural color, Internally Flawless diamond weighing 11.19 carats, mounted in 14 karat rose gold and suspended from a 14k rose gold link chain. GIA report no. 15260517, dated 29 September 2006, accompanying the lot states that the 11.19-carat diamond is Fancy Pink, Natural Color, Internally Flawless, mounted in 14 karat rose gold.

Lot 88 - Important Platinum, Fancy Gray-Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring
Lot 88 – Important Platinum, Fancy Gray-Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring

Lot 88, a property from a distinguished American family is the 3rd colored diamond highlight and overall the sixth highest valued lot of the sale, titled, “Important Platinum, Fancy Gray-Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 750,000 – 1,000,000. The size 3¾, expandable Art Deco ring designed around year 1930, is claw-set with a square emerald-cut, fancy gray-blue, natural color, VVS2 clarity diamond weighing 5.07 carats, the gallery further accented by baguette-cut, triangle-cut and circular-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 0.30 carats. The ring has a later-added expandable white gold shank, enabling it to be expanded from size 3¾ to size 4½. GIA report no. 2173943317 accompanying the lot states that the 5.07-carat, emerald-cut diamond is Fancy Gray-Blue, Natural Color and VVS2 clarity.

Lot 106 - Exquisite Platinum, Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring
Lot 106 – Exquisite Platinum, Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring

Lot 106 titled, “Exquisite Platinum, Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring,” is the 4th colored diamond highlight of the sale and overall the 7th valued lot of the sale, with an estimated value of USD 700,000 – 1,000,000. The size 6½, platinum ring of crossover design, is set with two pear-shaped, fancy vivid blue diamonds weighing respectively 0.96 and 0.64 carats, accented by circular-cut colorless diamonds, surrounding the pear-shaped diamonds and also set on the shank of the ring. The accenting circular-cut diamonds have a color-grade ranging from F to G; clarity-grade ranging from VVS to VS and a total approximate weight of 0.78 carats. GIA report nos. 2105997540 and 2105997539 accompanying the lot, state that the two pear-shaped diamonds weighing respectively 0.96 and 0.64 carats are both fancy vivid blue, natural color and VS1 clarity.

EMERALD LOTS

Significant emerald lots apart from the Stotesbury Emerald (Lot 108) are lots 94, 232 and 252.

Lot 94 - Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Diamond Necklace, Greenleaf & Crosby
Lot 94 – Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Diamond Necklace, Greenleaf & Crosby

Lot 94, titled “Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Diamond Necklace, Greenleaf & Crosby.” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 250,000 – 350,000 is the second most valued emerald lot of the sale. The 14¾ inch (37.5 cm) choker length, platinum and 18k gold pendant necklace has a lower half set with six emerald-cut emeralds and a rear half set with marquise-cut diamonds and a clasp set with a single emerald-cut emerald surrounded by pear,marquise and round cut diamonds. The lower half suspends a pear-shaped pendant set with a central emerald-cut emerald mounted on yellow gold, surrounded by two rows of circular-cut and pear-cut diamonds. The pendant is suspended from a centerpiece in the necklace, also set with an emerald-cut emerald surrounded by circular-cut diamonds, and linked to the pendant below and to the necklace on either side, by a pair of marquise-shaped diamonds. Two matching emerald-cut emeralds are placed symmetrically on either side of the centerpiece, surrounded by a row of circular-cut diamonds and spaced by a pair of marquise-cut diamonds. Hence, in the lower part of the necklace there are five pairs of marquise-cut emeralds placed as spacers between the emerald centered rosettes and the lower pendant.
The rear-half of the necklace which is the neckchain, are set with pairs of marquise-shaped diamonds. There are 22 pairs of marquise-shaped diamonds on the left side and 24 pairs of marquise-shaped diamonds on the right side, between the rear clasp and the first emerald-centered diamond rosettes on the lower-half of the necklace. The emeralds are a medium to medium light bluish green in color and moderately to heavily included. Total weight of the seven emeralds approximately 39.70 carats. Total weight of diamonds approximately 79.00 carats, color-grade F to H and clarity-grade VVS to VS. The pendant can be detached, and the necklace divided into three sections, measuring 6½, 4½ and 3¾ inches. The central section of length 6½ ins. can be worn as a bracelet.

Lot 232 - 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Ceramic Ring, Taffin
Lot 232 – 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Ceramic Ring, Taffin

Lot 232 – “18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Ceramic Ring, Taffin,” with the same pre-sale estimate of USD 250,000 – 350,000 as the previous lot is also another second most valued emerald lot of the sale. The size 6, 18k gold and ceramic ring, signed Taffin and numbered TF 4570, is claw-set with a cushion-cut emerald weighing 17.81 carats. The emerald is richly saturated with a medium deep-green color and moderately included. Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 16067266 accompanying the lot states that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement.

Lot 252 - Gold, Emerald and Diamond Necklace
Lot 252 – Gold, Emerald and Diamond Necklace

Lot 252 is another significant emerald lot, titled, “Gold, Emerald and Diamond Necklace” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 150,000 – 200,000. The 18 ins. (45.7 cm) Princess length yellow gold necklace, designed around year 1900 in the Art Nouveau period, has a front panel of floral and foliage motif and a rear neck-chain. The front panel is set with nine variously-cut emeralds, a hexagonal-shaped emerald placed as the centerpiece, and four matching emeralds placed symmetrically on either side. The emeralds range in color from a medium to medium deep bluish-green to slightly bluish-green and are lightly to moderately included. Total weight of emeralds approximately 256 carats. Each emerald is framed by a row of old mine-cut diamonds and spaced by a foliage motif also set with old mine-cut diamonds. Total weight of old mine-cut diamonds approximately 35 carats, color-grade I to J and clarity-grade SI to I. Two lab reports by AGL and SSEF bearing nos. 1081982 and 41499 respectively state that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with minor to moderate clarity enhancement of the traditional type.

BLUE SAPPHIRE LOTS

Apart from Lots 105, 51 and 251 which were considered under diamond lots above and contain blue sapphires as accent stones, other significant blue sapphire lots, where the main gemstones are blue sapphires, are Lots 60, 225 and 247.

Lot 60 - Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Lot 60 – Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring

Lot 60 – “Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring” with an estimate of USD 200,000 – 300,000, is a size 6, platinum ring in which the main gemstone is a cushion-cut, untreated, natural Burma blue sapphire, weighing 12.18 carats, flanked by half-moon shaped diamonds of total approximate weight of 1.50 carats and further accented by circular-cut diamonds on the shoulders and shank of the ring, of total approximate weight of 0.90 carats. The sapphire is richly saturated with a medium deep blue color. Color grade of diamonds F to G color and clarity grade VS to SI. SSEF and GGL certificates bearing nos. 30525 and 17025018 respectively, state that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat enhancement.

Lot 225 - Platinum and Sapphire Ring
Lot 225 – Platinum and Sapphire Ring

Lot 225 – “Platinum and Sapphire Ring,” is another significant sapphire lot with a pre-sale estimate of USD 180,000 – 220,000. The size 6½, platinum ring is claw-set with a cushion-cut, deeply saturated, Burma blue sapphire weighing 23.29 carats. AGL report no. CS 67449 accompanying the lot states that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat enhancement.

Lot 247 - Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Gübelin
Lot 247 – Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Gübelin

Lot 247 – “Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Gübelin,” is another sapphire lot with a pre-sale estimate of USD 50,000 – 70,000. The size 5, platinum ring is claw-set with a cushion-cut medium violetish-blue Burma sapphire, weighing approximately 14.75 carats, flanked by four baguette-cut diamonds on either side, with a total weight of approximately 0.40 carats. Color grade of diamonds G to I color and clarity grade predominantly VS clarity. Maker’s mark on the inner shank of the ring. AGL report no. CS 1074101 accompanying the lot states that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

RUBY LOTS

Significant ruby lots include Lots 57, 253 and 100.

Lot 57 - Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Four claws that arise by the bifurcation of the upper shank of the ring is shown
Lot 57 – Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Four claws that arise by the bifurcation of the upper shank of the ring is shown

 

Lot 57 - Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Marquise and round-cut diamonds mounted as side stones are shown.
Lot 57 – Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Marquise and round-cut diamonds mounted as side stones are shown.

Lot 57 – “Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels,” is the top ruby lot of the sale with a pre-sale estimate of USD 300,000 – 500,000. The size 5, platinum ring signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered SUO451, is claw-set with a 4.35-carat, cushion-cut, richly saturated ruby with a medium deep very slightly purplish red color. The four claws that mounts the ruby on the gallery, arise by the bifurcation of the upper shank or shoulder of the ring. Round-cut diamonds are mounted on the bifurcations and the claw. Below the central ruby at a lower level, marquise-cut and round-cut diamonds are mounted as side stones. The diamonds are approximately E-F color, VVS-VS clarity with an approximate weight of 0.65 carats. Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 17025019 accompanying the lot, states that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

Lot 253 – “Suite of Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jewelry,” with an estimate of USD 100,000 – 150,000 is another significant ruby lot of the sale. The suite comprising a necklace, bracelet and pair of pendant-earclips is designed as a series of ruby-centered florets, surrounded by marquise-cut diamonds and spaced by a quadrat of four round-cut diamonds.

Lot 253 - The Necklace and  Pair of Pendant Ear-Clips of the Suite of Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jewelry
Lot 253 – The Necklace and Pair of Pendant Ear-Clips of the Suite of Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jewelry

The 16¾ ins. (42.5 cm) choker length necklace consists of 18 ruby-centered florets, spaced by 18 quadrats of round-cut diamonds. The rubies are variously cut such as cushion, oval and round cuts. Each ruby is surrounded by 10 marquise-cut colorless diamonds. The rubies are set on 18k yellow gold and the diamonds on plaatinum. Hence, there are 18 rubies, 180 marquise-cut diamonds and 72 round-cut diamonds in the necklace.

Lot 253 - the Bracelet of the Suite of Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jewelry
Lot 253 – the Bracelet of the Suite of Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jewelry

The bracelet of length 6¾ ins (17 cm) consists of 10 ruby-centered florets and 10 quadrat spacers. However, unlike the necklace each floret is not completely surrounded by 10 marquise-cut diamonds, but 4 marquise-cut diamonds on the two outer sides. The round-cut quadrat of diamonds is placed between two florets, so that each floret is surrounded by 8 marquise-cut diamonds and 2 round-cut diamonds. The clasp end of the bracelet has a quadrat of 4 round-cut diamonds. The other end of the bracelet where the clasp fits has a ruby-centered floret with 8 marquise-cut diamonds on either side. The central floret, the 5th from the clasp end has the largest ruby which is cushion-cut. Hence, there are 10 rubies, 80 marquise-cut diamonds, and 40 round-cut diamonds on the bracelet. The rubies are mounted on 18k yellow gold and the diamonds on platinum.

Lot-253 - The Pair of Pendant Earclips of the Suite of Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jewelry
Lot-253 – The Pair of Pendant Earclips of the Suite of Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Jewelry

The pair of pendant ear-clips are each made of two ruby-centered florets, surrounded by 10 marquise-cut diamonds and separated by a quadrat of 4 round-cut diamonds. The rubies are mounted on 18k yellow gold and the diamonds on platinum. The pendants are detachable from the ear-clips. Length of earclips approximately 2 1/8 inches (5.4 cm).

Total weight of rubies in the suite approximately 69.00 carats. The rubies are a medium-deep to deep, very slightly pinkish red to red in color and ranging from slightly to heavily included. AGL report nos. 1081974, 1081973 and 1081972 accompanying the lot, state that 31 of the 32 rubies are of Thai origin, with evidence of heat enhancement. The remaining ruby in the earclips is of Malawi origin, with no indications of heat enhancement.

Total weight of round and marquise-cut diamonds in the suite approximately 114.60 carats. The diamonds range from approximately G-J color, and are predominantly VVS-VS clarity.

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