Christie’s Paris online Jewelry Auction taking place from 23 June 2.00 PM to 07 July 12 PM, christened “Joaillerie” features a total of 298 Lots, consisting of a broad selection of diamonds, colored diamonds and colored gemstones including a 7.25 carats, E-color, VVS2-clarity, rectangular-cut diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, a 5.28 carats, E-coloir, VS2-clarity, rectangular-cut diamond ring by Harry Winston and a of 7.14 carats, cushion-cut Burman sapphire ring by Jean Fouquet and an important Ceylon 29.17 carats sapphire ring.
The auction also features a finely curated selection of signed vintage pieces by Belperron, Boivin, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, David Webb, Jar, Seaman Schepps, Van Cleef & Arpels among others, as well as contemporary designers.
The auction also offers the personal collection of the late Jean Fouquet, whose jewelry had produced strong results at previous auctions, apart from several collections from other private collectors, consisting of Art Deco jewels by Cartier, Retro jewels by Van Cleef and Arpels with an iconic Zip necklace, and Bestiary jewels by David Webb.
Top Lot of the Sale based on Current Bid achieved so far, is Lot 298 – titled BAGUE COCKTAIL DIAMANT DE 25.40 CARATS, DIAMANTS ET SAPHIRS – 25.40 CARAT DIAMOND COCKTAIL RING, DIAMONDS AND SAPPHIRES – with an estimate of EUR 280,000 – EUR 300,000, and achieving a current bid of EUR 320,000.
The Platinum Ring of size FR: 54 / US: 6 ¾, is bezel-set with a cushion modified brilliant-cut, K-Color faint brown, VS1 Clarity diamond, weighing 25.40 carats, surrounded by a row of calibre-cut rectangular blue sapphires, the shoulders and sides of the ring, set with circular-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 27.00- 27.50 carats.
GIA, 2022, report no. 2223424312 states that the 25.40-carat diamond is K faint brown color, VS1 Clarity, with no fluorescence .
Top Lot of the Sale based on estimates, Lot 18 titled BAGUE SAPHIR DE 10.56 CARATS – 10.56 CARAT SAPPHIRE RING – has achieved the second highest current bid of EUR 300,000, which is exactly equal to the lower estimate of EUR 300,000 the higher estimate being EUR 400,000.
The Platinum Ring of size FR: 51 / US: 5 ½, is set on its mounting with a cushion brilliant step-cut Kashmir blue sapphire weighing 10.56 carats.
SSEF, 2022, report no. 123142 states that the 10.56 carats, Kashmir blue sapphire is natural with no heat enhancement.
A second 2022 report by Gübelin, bearing report no. 22040062 states that the 10.56 carats blue sapphire is of Kashmir origin with no heat enhancement.
Another highlight of the sale which is the third highest lot based on estimate of EUR 200,000 – 300,000 and a Current Bid of EUR 300,000, equal to the upper estimate is Lot 227, titled VAN CLEEF & ARPELS COLLIER ‘ZIP’ TRANSFORMABLE RUBIS ET DIAMANTS – VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMONDS TRANSFORMABLE ‘ZIP’ NECKLACE.
The dimensions of the Necklace are 45.0 cm x 1.5 cm, with the tassel of dimensions 4.5 cm x 1.6 cm. When transformed to bracelets the dimensions are 18.2 x 2.5 cm and 22.5 x 2.5 cm.
The Necklace/ bracelets are made of 18k yellow-gold and platinum. Ciircular-cut rubies set on the necklace has a total weight of 16.50 – 20.50 carats. Circular diamonds set on the necklace has a total weight of 5.50 – 6.50 carats.
A true masterpiece of ingenuity and one of the most innovative pieces of jewellery ever created, the Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is an iconic design with a rich and intriguing history.
The Necklace was made for the Duchess of Windsor, one of the most elegant and fashionable women in the world and a loyal client of Van Cleef & Arpels, who placed an order in the 1930s, to create a piece of jewelry inspired by the zipper to be worn with her evening dresses. A patent for the design of the necklace was filed iin 1938, but it was only in 1951, that Van Cleef & Arpels presented its first “Zip” necklace to the Duchess.
The “Zip” necklace is not only a beautiful and versatile piece of jewelry, but also a stunning technical achievement. The top part of the necklace can be detached and the remaining section can be reassembled to form a bracelet, leaving the gold tassel hanging off one side. Very few of these iconic jewels were made in the 1950s, a fact that explains why the few examples offered at auction are highly sought after by collectors.
The next highlight of the sale, way below based on estimate of EUR 80,000 – 120,000, CARTIER BROCHE SAPHIR DE 4.96 CARATS ET DIAMANTS – CARTIER 4.96 CARAT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMONDS BROOCH, has done quite well so far based on a Current Bid of EUR 260,000 which is more than twice the upper estimate of EUR 120,000.
The 18k white gold brooch, signed Cartier Paris, with dimensions of 3.0 x 2.9 cm is set with a cushion brilliant step-cut blue sapphire weighing 4.96 carats as center piece, surrounded by a rosette of eleven marquise-cut white diamonds.
Gübelin, 2018, report no 18020142 states that the 4.96 carats blue sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement.
Total weight of marquise-cut diamonds approximately 7.80-9.50 carats.
The next highlight of the sale based on current bid iis Lot 165 – BAGUE DIAMANT DE 9.46 CARATS ET DIAMANTS DE COULEUR – 9.46 CARAT DIAMOND AND COLORED DIAMOND RING, with an estimate of EUR 250,000 – 300,000 and achieving a current bid of EUR 240,000 slightly below the lower estimate.
Ring Size – FR: 52 / US: 6 , Rose Gold Ring is claw-set with a modified pear-cut, D-Color, VS1-Clarity diamond weighing 9.46 carats, with circular-cut pink diamonds set on the upper hoop of the ring. Total weight of colored diamonds approximately 0.7 – 0.9 carats.
GIA, 2022, report no 5221424282 states that the modified pear-cut, 9.46 carats diamond is D color and VS1 clarity.
Lot 296 – DEUX DIAMANTS DE 3.03 et 3.22 CARATS – TWO DIAMONDS OF 3.03 and 3.22 CARATS with an estimate of EUR 160,000 – 200,000 is the next highlight of the sale, achieving a current bid of EUR 190,000, within the estimate.
The two round brilliant-cut diamonds weigh 3.03 and 3.22 carats.
GIA, 2022, report no 1146457065 states that the 3.03-carat diamond iis D-color, VVS2 clarity with no fluorescence.
GIA, 2022, report no 1156642785 states that the 3.22 carats diamond is D-color, IF clarity, with no fluorescence.