Sotheby’s London, Autumn Fine Jewels Sale coming up on 21st September 2016, promises to be a memorable and exciting event, going by the rich selection of exquisitely designed jewels lined up for the sale. A total of 258 lots will be on offer at the auctions, including signed pieces by renowned jewelry houses/designers such as Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari, Buccellati, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Faraone, Rene Boivin, Morris David, Hemmerle, Oscar Heyman & Bros and Sabbadini. Lots include diamonds,colored gemstones and pearls set alone or in combination, on platinum, yellow gold and white gold.
The auction will be held in two sessions on 21st September, 2016; Lots 1 to 137 being offered in the morning session starting at 10.30 am and Lots 138 to 258 coming up during the afternoon session starting at 2.30 pm.
Top lot of the sale is a diamond and colored gemstone lot, assigned Lot No. 163 and titled “Pair of Emerald and Diamond Earrings,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 26,000-36,000 (USD 34,500-39,800). Each of the pair of drop earrings suspends a matching emerald drop, from a marquise and pear-shaped diamond surmount. The emeralds are dark green, transparent with typical inclusions found in emeralds and some minor surface reaching fissures visible to the naked eye. Total weight of emeralds approximately 47.41 carats. The marquise and pear-shaped diamonds on the surmount has a total weight of approximately 6.66 carats with a colour grade varying from I to K and clarity grade ranging from from SI to I.
Another highlight of the sale is a signed piece by Bulgari, bearing Lot No. 165 and titled “Fancy intense yellow diamond ring, by Bulgari,” with a presale estimate of GBP 25,000-35,000 (USD 33,000-46,500). The centerpiece of the ring is an oval modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 3.01 carats collet-set on 18k yellow gold. The closed back mount of the ring made of white metal is accented with small brilliant-cut white diamonds. The lot is accompanied by a GIA report (No. 5172245804) dated July 23, 2015, certifying that the 3.01-carat, oval modified brilliant-cut diamond is fancy intense yellow color, natural, and VVS2 clarity.
The next highlight of the sale with the same presale estimate of GBP 25,000-35,000 (USD 33,000-46,500) as lot 165, is lot 159, titled “Pair of fancy light yellow diamond earrings.” Each of the matching pair of drop earrings suspends a fancy light yellow, cushion modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.16 and 3.08 carats respectively, surrounded by a layer of round brilliant-cut diamonds, a trapeze-shaped diamond surmounting the modified cushion-cut diamond. The combination of the square and trapeze is suspended by a loop or ring from the linear vertical suspension also mounted with round brilliant-cut diamonds. GIA reports certify that the 3.16 carat diamond is Fancy Light Yellow, natural colour, VS1 Clarity and the 3.08 carat diamond is Fancy Light Yellow, natural colour, VS2 Clarity.
Lot 198 is a signed piece by Cartier, a diamond and colored gemstone lot, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 25,000-30,000 (USD 33,000-40,000), and titled a “Gem set and diamond ring “Caresse d’orchidées,” Cartier, circa 2005. The size H, platinum and 18k yellow gold Cartier ring is designed as an Orchid flower, with three outer petals and two inner petals pave-set with near-colorless round brilliant-cut diamonds on platinum and the special petal called the “labellum” also pave-set with yellow round brilliant-cut diamonds on 18k yellow gold and four circular-cut rubies set at the base of the labellum. Estimated weight of yellow diamonds 0.80-1.20 carats and estimated total weight of near-colorless (G-I color) diamonds 7.00-8.00 carats. Total estimated weight of four rubies 0.15-0.25 carats. Color of rubies dark red, with inclusions typical of rubies.
Lot 148, titled “Ruby and diamond parure,” with a presale estimate of GBP 22,000-36,000 GBP (USD 29,000-47,500) is another highlight of the sale. The parure consists of a necklace, bracelet and a pair of ear clips.
The 38 cm necklace is pave-set with circular-cut rubies and near-colorless round brilliant-cut diamonds on 18k yellow gold. The diamonds are set around the necklace in a zig-zag pattern and the triangular spaces on either side of the zig-zag pattern are set with circular-cut rubies. The rubies are well matched in color and of strong saturation. Average color grading of near-colorless diamonds, G-H color. Average clarity grade of diamonds VS.
The 18 cm bracelet, like the necklace, is pave-set in a zig-zag pattern with near-colorless round brilliant-cut diamonds and the triangular spaces on either side of this pattern are pave-set with four rows of circular-cut rubies, each row ending on the outer side with a round brilliant-cut diamond, forming an outer limiting layer of round brilliant-cut diamonds alternating with circular-cut rubies.
Each of the pair of ear clips are also set wih near-colorless, round brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut rubies, in a pattern matching with the necklace and the bracelet, the zig-zag like central part pave-set with diamonds and the regions outside of it set with circular-cut rubies. Estimated total weight of near-colorless diamonds 45.00-48.00 carats. Total gross weight of all components in the parure 260 grams.
Lot 139 is a diamond and platinum ring, titled a “Diamond Ring” with a presale estimate of GBP 20,000-25,000 (USD 26,500-33,000). The centerpiece of the ring is a claw-set 5.03-carat, square modified brilliant-cut, near-colorless diamond, with a color grade of J and clarity grade VS2, according to EGL report No. BD700035 accompanying the lot. The shoulders of the ring are set with tapered baguette-cut diamonds. The size H ring has Sheffield hallmarks for platinum. Estimated total weight of baguette-cut diamonds 0.30-0.40 carats. Total gross weight of ring 6 grams.
Lot 183 is a “Sapphire and Diamond Necklace,” with a presale estimate of GBP 20,000-25,000 (USD 26,500-33,000). The 41.5 cm necklace falling within the category of a “choker” is designed as a rivière of oval-shaped blue sapphires gradually increasing in size up to a large central oval-shaped blue sapphire. There are 19 oval-shaped blue sapphires from the rear clasp up to the central sapphire on either side, making a total of 39 oval-shaped blue sapphires in the necklace. Each blue sapphire is accented by a layer of round brilliant-cut diamonds. The sapphires and diamonds are set on 18k white gold. Total estimated weight of the blue sapphires approximately 27.00-31.00 carats. Total estimated weight of diamonds 8.00-10.00 carats. Gross weight of necklace 56 grams.
Highlight of a lot with a modern and contemporary design is Lot 256 – A Cultured Pearl and Diamond Brooch by René Boivin, 1980s. The 18k yellow gold brooch signed René Boivin is designed as a spray of three oak leaves and three acorns. Two of the leaves and the three acorns are articulated. Two of the leaves and two cups of acorns are pavé-set with brilliant cut diamonds of varied yellow, orange, brown and near-colorless tints. Estimated total weight of the diamonds is approximately between 6.00 and 8.00 carats. The acorns are set with cultured pearls havng a white/cream body color, and rosé and green overtones. The pearls are of tapered ovoid shape. Total weight of the brooch, approximately 109 grams and approximate dimensions are 85 x 80 x 30 mm. A pre-sale estimate of GBP 15,000-20,000 (USD 19,900-26,500) is placed on this brooch.
Lot 242 is another sapphire and diamond lot, titled “Sapphire and Diamond Ring – by Sabbadini,” with a presale estimate of GBP 14,000-18,000 (USD 18,500-24,000). The 18k yellow gold, size J ring, signed Sabbadini, is claw-set with an oval-shaped Ceylon blue sapphire weighing 36.25 carats, framed by a layer of near-colorless round brilliant-cut diamonds. A CISGEM laboratory report bearing No. 3615, certifies the Ceylon origin of the sapphire, with no indications of heat treatment. The transparent light-blue sapphire with dimensions of 22.7 x 18.3 x 9.0 mm, contain inclusions typical of sapphires from Ceylon and visible under magnification. Estimated total weight of the diamonds is approximately between 3.00-3.50 carats.
Top lot incorporating natural pearls is a vintage piece, designed in the second half of the 19th-century (mid-Victorian period), bearing Lot No.45 and titled “Natural Pearl and Diamond Brooch, Second Half of 19th-Century, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 12,800-19,200 (USD 17,000-25,500). The silver and gold brooch with a floral motif, in keeping with the sombre and austere jewelry designs of the period, is set with three button-shaped, white pearls with grey, green and rose overtones; medium luster and dimensions of 10.6-10.9 x 8.9 mm; 9.0-9.2 x 7.1 mm and 9.0-10.0 x 7.2 mm. Cushion-cut, circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds are mounted on the brooch; nine circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds surrounding the central button-shaped pearl, and two cushion-cut diamonds mounted on either side of the two peripheral pearls. More cushion-cut diamonds are mounted on the periphery of the brooch, forming two triads of diamonds, with a central large cushion-cut diamond and two smaller cushion-cut diamonds mounted on either side. Total estimated weight of the diamonds 6.00-8.00 carats. Color of the diamonds vary from J-L and the clarity varies from slightly included (SI) to Included (I). The Gem & Pearl Laboratory report no. 13010, confirms that the pearls are natural and of saltwater origin.
Other vintage lots include Lots 209, 210, and 257. Lots 209 and 210 were created by Cartier in the 1960s and consisted of a pair of gem-set and diamond ear clips (209) and a matching bracelet (210).
Lot 209 titled “Pair of Gem-set and Diamond Ear Clips, Cartier,1960s,” has a pre-sale estimate of GBP 5,000-7,000. Each of the earclips, signed Cartier, is designed as an an “EYE,” a cabochon amethyst set on white gold, representing the “eye ball,” round brilliant-cut, colorless/white diamonds claw-set on white gold, representing the white of the eye, medium blue/green turquoises set on yellow gold, representing the upper and lower eye-lid,and dark blue Lapis Lazuli set on yellow-gold, representing the eye lashes.
Lot 210 is the matching bracelet to lot 209 above, designed by Cartier in the 1960s, and incorporating the same type of colored gemstones and diamonds. The lot titled “Gem set and Diamond Bracelet, Cartier, 1960s,” has a presale estimate of GBP 8,000-12,000 (USD 10,500-16,000). The signed 18k yellow-gold bracelet by Cartier has a length of approximately 190 mm and is designed as a line of oval, dark purple, transparent amethysts, clawset as the centerpiece of a floral motif, on 18k yellow gold, surrounded by a layer of medium blue and bluish-green turquoises, and the petals outside alternately set with turquoises and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The space between each rosette on the bracelet is set with four round brilliant-cut diamonds in the shape of a cross. There are nine rosettes and eight crosses on the bracelet.
Lot 257 is another vintage piece by Cartier, designed in the 1940s. The lot titled “Citrine and Sapphire Brooch, Cartier 1940s has a presale estimate of GBP 5,000-7,000 (USD 6,500-9,000). The animal motif brooch designed as a stylized “fox cub” is set with mixed cut citrines and cabochon blue sapphire eyes. The citrines are deep brownish-orange , transparent and with typical inclusions found in citrines. The body of the fox cub is set with an oval-cut citrine, the head with a pear-shaped citrine, the four legs with rectangular-cut citrines, the tail with a small pear cut citrine and the two ears with square-cut citrines. The eyes are set with cabochon-cut blue sapphires. All gemstones are set on 18k yellow gold.
lot 105 is another significant colored gemstone and diamond lot, titled “Ruby and Diamond Ring,” with a presale estimate of GBP 12,000-15,000 (USD 16,000-20,000). The size K1/2, 18k yellow gold ring is claw-set with a cushion-cut, purplish-red ruby (pigeon’s blood ruby) with dimensions of 12.4 x 10.7 x 3.4 mm, estimated to weigh approximately 3.97 carats. Gem & Pearl Laboratory report No. 07524, certifies that the ruby is purplish-red, transparent with typical inclusions visible under magnification, with no evidence of heat enhancement. Two triangular shaped diamonds mounted on the shoulders of the ring, with estimated total weight of 2.00-3.00 carats, has an estimated color range of I to K and an average estimated clarity of VS.
The September Fine Jewels Sale also offers a wide selection of designs made predominantly of 18k yellow gold,such as lots 132, 135,137, 237 and 251. Yellow gold will remain a favourite of jewellery designers and collectors the world over. Contemporary designs in yellow gold by David Morris, circa 1965/1966, depicting bold, abstract or brutalist designs are seen in lots 132 and 137.
Lot 132 titled “Diamond Necklace by David Morris, Circa 1966,” has a presale estimate of GBP 3,000-4,000 (USD 4,000-5,300). The 18k yellow gold necklace of abstract design is interspered with tapered baguette-cut diamonds. Gross weight of the necklace approximately 76 grams. Estimated total weight of tapered baguette-cut diamonds approximately 8.00-12.00 carats. Estimated color grades of diamonds range from H to I and estimated clarity grades vary from VVS to VS.
Lot 137 is another brutalist design by David Morris, titled “Diamond Bangle, David Morris, Circa 1965,” with a presale estimate of GBP 5,000-6,000 (USD 6,500-8,000). The 18k yellow-gold bangle of brutalist/abstract design is interspersed with linear rows of round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. The bangle signed David Morris has an inner circumference of approximately 170 mm. The gross weight of the bangle is approximately 190 grams. Estimated total weight of diamonds is approximately 2.50-4.50 carats. Estimated color grades of diamonds H to J and estimated clarity grades vary from VVS to VS.
Lot 135 is another 18k gold bangle designed by Neiman Marcus in the 1970s. The bangle with an abstract design conceals a rectangular watch. The inner circumference of the bangle is approximately 160 mm and its gross weight 135 grams. The lot titled “Lady’s Wristwatch/Bangle, Neiman Marcus, 1970s,” has a presale estimate of GBP 3,000-5,000 (USD 4,000-6,500).
Lot 237 is another 18k yellow gold lot, consisting of a flattened curb link chain, suspending an oval plaque set with 14 circular-cut diamonds depicting the “Virgo” constellation. Gross weight of the chain is 138 grams and the length of the chain is approximately 625 mm. The lot titled “Diamond Necklace, Illario,” has a presale estimate of GBP 5,500-6,500 (USD 7,000-8,500) placed on it.
Lot 251 is an 18k yellow gold chain necklace, designed as a flattened curb-link chain, with a length of approximately 810 mm and a gross weight of approximately 393 grams. The necklace designed in Italy has a presale estimate of GBP 7,000-9,000 (USD 9,000-12,000), and is just titled a “NECKLACE.”
lot 258, the last lot of the sale, is a piece designed by Van Cleef & Arpels combining both 18k yellow gold and carved rock crystals. The 190 mm bracelet signed VCA is designed as a flattened curb link chain, made of alternating 18k yellow gold links and carved rock crystal links. The rock crystals are transparent and colorless. The lot titled “Rock Crystal Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels,” has a presale estimate of GBP 3,000-4,000 (USD 4,000-5,000) placed on it.