Sotheby’s Hong Kong has announced the holding of its Important Jewels and Jadeite Sale on November 28, 2016 at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Gallery, 5/F One Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong. The auction which commences at 1.00 pm HKT, will feature 195 lots which includes a selection of exquisitely crafted jewelry from renowned jewelry houses/designers such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Buccellati, Harry Winston, and Schlumberger as well as an array of colored diamond, diamond, jadeite, colored gemstone, natural and cultured pearl jewelry. Most of the lots in this sale are moderately priced varying from as low as HKD8,000 (USD1,031) to an upper limit of HKD4,400,000 (USD567,116). Sotheby’s Hong Kong says that the collection of colorful and unique pieces offered in this sale would make the perfect gifts for the upcoming festive season.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Top among the colorless/white diamond lots are Lots 1792, 1723 and 1724.
Lot 1792 with a pre-sale estimate of HKD4,000,000 – 4,400,000 (USD515,560 – 567,116) is the top lot of the sale. The lot titled, “DIAMOND RING,” is a 5 1/2 size platinum ring, set with a 6.01-carat, D-color, Internally Flawless diamond with excellent cut, polish and symmetry, flanked by two tapered baguette-cut diamonds. The two baguette-cut diamonds, about F-color and VS clarity weigh approximately 0.40 carats. GIA report no. 1176666779, dated 31 May 2016, states that the 6.01 carat diamond is D-Color, Internally Flawless, with Excellent Cut, Polish and Symmetry.
Lot 1723 also titled, “DIAMOND RING,” has a pre-sale estimate of HKD1,700,000 – 2,200,000 (USD219,113 – 283,558). The size 6, platinum ring is set with an oval-cut diamond weighing 8.01 carats, flanked by two half-moon-shaped diamonds. GIA report no. 1162665920, dated 15 October 2014, states that the 8.01 carat diamond is G-Color, VVS1 Clarity and the half-moon shaped diamonds weigh approximately 0.60 carats and are about H-I Color, VS-SI clarity.
Lot 1724 is a diamond ring by Harry Winston, assigned Lot No. 1724 and titled,”DIAMOND RING, HARRY WINSTON,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD1,600,000 – 1,900,000 (USD206,224 – 244,891). The size 6 3/4 platinum ring is set with a 4.36-carat, emerald-cut diamond flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond. GIA report no. 5171767164, dated 28 July 2016 accompanying the lot states that the 4.36-carat diamond is D-Color and Internally Flawless clarity.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
Some of the significant colored diamond lots are Lots 1732, 1693 and 1722.
Lot 1732 is a “FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD2,300,000 – 3,000,000 (USD296,447 – 386,670). The size 6 platinum and yellow gold ring is set with a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 12.02 carats mounted on 18k yellow gold, flanked by two cut-cornered trapezoid step-cut diamonds weighing 0.94 and 0.91 carat respectively, mounted on platinum. GIA report no. 2175207564, dated 2 July 2015, accompanying the lot, states that the 12.02 carat diamond is natural, Fancy Intense Yellow Color and Internally Flawless. Two other GIA reports in respect of the trapezoid step-cut diamonds, state that the 0.94 and 0.91 carat diamonds are both D Color, Internally Flawless.
Lot 1693 is another yellow diamond ring, but set with a fancy vivid yellow diamond, the highest grading for a colored diamond. The lot titled, “FANCY VIVID YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING,” has a pre-sale estimate of HKD2,100,000 – 2,600,000 (USD270,669 – 335,114). The size 6, platinum and 18k yellow gold ring is set with a cushion-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 7.46 carats mounted on 18k yellow gold, flanked on either side by a trapeze-cut diamond mounted on platinum, with a total weight of approximately 1.00 carat. GIA report no. 2175354106, dated 23 October 2015, states that the 7.46 carat diamond is natural, Fancy Vivid Yellow Color and Internally Flawless. The trapeze-cut diamonds are around E to F color and VS to SI clarity.
Lot 1722 with a pre-sale estimate of HKD1,200,000 – 1,500,000 (USD154,668 – 193,335) is titled, “PAIR OF FANCY VIVID YELLOW DIAMOND, FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND PENDANT EARRINGS.” Each of the pendant earrings suspends a fancy vivid yellow or a fancy intense yellow briolette-cut diamond, weighing respectively 3.32 and 4.04 carats, within an inner yellow circular-cut diamond and an outer colorless circular-cut diamond twin frame, linked by bullet-shaped colorless diamonds to the surmounts set with pear-shaped fancy intense yellow diamonds, weighing respectively 0.66 carats and 0.64 carats. The yellow diamonds are mounted on 18k yellow gold and the colorless diamonds on 18k white gold. GIA report nos. 5260714 and 14783454, dated 4 October 2006 and 21 December 2005 respectively, state that the 3.32 and 4.04 carat diamonds are natural, Fancy Vivid Yellow and Fancy Intense Yellow Color, VVS2 and VVS1 Clarity respectively. GIA report nos. 3804455 and 15612570, dated 6 January 2005 and 12 December 2006 respectively, state that the 0.66 and 0.64 carat diamonds are natural, both Fancy Intense Yellow Color, VS2 and VS1 Clarity respectively.
COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS
Significant sapphire lots include lots 1789, 1713 and 1781.
Lot 1789 which is the second highlight of the sale based on pre-sale estimates, is the top lot among colored gemstone lots. The lot titled, “IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, BULGARI,” has a pre-sale estimate of HKD3,300,000 – 4,000,000 (USD425,337 – 515,560). The size 6 3/4 white gold ring designed by Bulgari is set with an oval-cut Burma blue sapphire, weighing 17.34 carats, flanked by two half-moon-shaped diamonds. Lab reports by GGL and SSEF confirm that the sapphire is natural, of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The blue sapphire has a medium dark blue color of intense saturation. Approximate total weight of the two side diamonds is 1.40 carats, with a color-grade of F to G (colorless to near-colorless), and clarity-grade of VS, as graded in the mount.
Lot 1713 is a Ceylon (Sri Lanka) blue sapphire lot titled, “PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD2,400,000 – 3,200,000 (USD309,336 – 412,448). Each of the white gold earrings is set with an oval-cut Ceylon blue sapphire weighing 21.35 and 21.29 carats respectively, within a crescent-shaped diamond mounting set with marquise and pear-shaped diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats. The earrings have clip and post fittings. GGL and SSEF reports certify that the Sapphires weighing 21.29 and 21.35 carats are natural sapphires of Srl Lanka origin with no evidence of heat enhancement, with a medium dark violetish-blue color of strong saturation, with inclusions characteristic of Ceylon sapphires. The diamonds are F to G color (colorless to near-colorless) with a clarity-grade of VS.
Lot 1781 titled, “SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND DEMI-PARURE,” is another significant sapphire lot, consisting of an exquisitely crafted sapphire and diamond necklace and a matching pair of pendant earrings. A moderate pre-sale estimate of HKD780,000 – 880,000 (USD100,534 – 113,423) is placed on this jewelry suite.
The 41 cm. platinum necklace is set with 43 pairs of cushion-shaped blue sapphires of uniform size alternating with 43 pairs of smaller circular-cut colorless diamonds. Total weight of the 86 sapphires on the necklace is 72.60 carats
Each of the pair of pendant earrings are set with 4 pairs of cushion-shaped blue sapphires separated by 3 pairs of smaller circular-cut diamonds, with a single circular-cut diamond placed at the point of suspension to the ear lobes. Total weight of the 16 sapphires on the pendant earrings is 12.82 carats.
Total weight of the diamonds is approximately 9.00 carats, and average color-grade is G (near-colorless). The clarity grades of the diamonds range from VS to SI.
Two AGL reports numbered CS53228 and CS82909 state that the sapphires are natural, with no evidence of heat enhancement, of Burmese origin, well matched, lively, and of medium dark blue color of intense saturation.
Some of the important ruby lots are Lots 1788, and 1776
Lot 1788 is a beautiful pair of earrings titled, “RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD1,600,000 – 2,000,000 (USD206,224 – 257,780). Designed as floral motifs, the centerpiece of each earring is an oval-cut ruby, surrounded by 8 petals, 4 of which are depicted by three pear-shaped diamonds and a single marquise-shaped diamond. The other 4 petals are more elaborate, three of which are set with a single large pear-shaped diamond surrounded by a row of circular-cut diamonds and the other set with a large marquise-shaped diamond, also surrounded by a row of circular-cut diamonds. Two lab reports by GIA and SSEF state that the two rubies are natural, of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no indications of heating,and of pigeon’s blood color.
Lot 1776 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, TIFFANY & CO., with a pre-sale estimate of HKD750,000 – 950,000 (USD96,668 – 122,446) is another significant Burma ruby lot at the auction. The centerpiece of the size 6 platinum ring, signed and numbered Tiffany & Co., is a 3.64-carat, cushion-cut Burma ruby highlighted by a circular-cut diamond surround. Circular-cut diamonds also set half-way down the hoop of the ring. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL confirm that the ruby is natural, of Burmese origin, with a medium dark purplish red color of strong saturation and no evidence of heat enhancement.
Among the top emerald lots are Lots 1777, 1694 and 1786
Lot 1777 is an emerald lot among the top ten highlights of the sale. The Lot titled,”EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BOUCHERON, PARIS,” has a pre-sale estimate of HKD1,500,000 – 1,900,000 (USD193,335 – 244,891). The size 8 platinum ring signed Boucheron Paris is set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut (emerald-cut) Colombian emerald weighing 5.33 carats, flanked by two baguette-cut diamonds. GGL report accompanying the lot states that the 5.33-carat emerald is natural and of Colombian origin, with a medium green colour of intense saturation, and having typical inclusions characteristic of emeralds, but not visible to the naked eye. Side diamonds weighing approximately 0.60 carats, have average color-grade G-Color (near-colorless) and clarity-grade SI as graded in the mount.
Lot 1694 is another emerald ring titled, “EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD1,200,000 – 1,500,000 (USD154,668 – 193,335). The size 6¼ platinum ring is set with a rectangular emerald-cut emerald weighing 4.23 carats, flanked on either side by a shield-shaped colorless diamond. SSEF and GGL reports accompanying the lot state that the 4.23 carat emerald is natural, of Colombian origin, having a medium green color of vivid saturation, with no evidence of clarity modification in fissures. Typical inclusions characteristic of emeralds present but not visible to naked eye. Side diamonds weigh approximately 0.83 carats, having average color-grade E and clarity-grade VS1, as graded in the mount.
Lot 1773 with a pre-sale estimate of HKD800,000 – 1,000,000 (USD103,112 – 128,890) is titled, “EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDENT NECKLACE.” The 42.5 cm, 18k white gold necklace has a triple row circular-cut diamond neck chain tapering to double row towards the clasp and point of suspension of the pendant.
The centerpiece of the pendant is a rectangular step-cut medium green Colombian emerald weighing 40.93 carats, highlighted by a row of circular-cut colorless diamonds, with pear-shaped diamond motifs subtending and surmounting the emerald. At the point of suspension of the pendant a triad of pear-shaped emeralds are placed one each at the ends of the neck chain and the third as the surmount of the pendant. A circular-cut diamond is placed at the point where the triad of pear-shaped emeralds meet. Total weight of diamonds in the necklace approximately 53.20 carats. The triad of pear-shaped emeralds weigh approximately 3.70 carats. GGL report accompanying the lot states that the step-cut emerald is natural, of Colombian origin, green of medium saturation with typical inclusions and indications of minor clarity enhancement. Average color-grade of diamonds G to H (near-colorless) and average clarity grade VS to SI as graded in the mounting.
Some of the Jadeite lots include Lots 1761, 1764 and 1754
Lot 1761 is the top lot among the jadeite lots, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD880,000 -1,000,000 (USD113,423 – 128,890), and titled, “JADEITE ‘GUANYIN’ AND DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE.” Guanyin is the Chinese translation of the Sanskrit Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, the “Goddess of Mercy” venerated by Mahayana Buddhists, whose adherents are found mainly in the South and Southeast Asian countries such as Nepal, Bhutan, China, Taiwan, Mongolia, Korea, Japan and Vietnam. The jadeite pendant consists of a Guanyin figurine carved out of bright emerald-green jadeite of very good translucency, sitting on a lotus pedestal set with a central shield-shaped diamond and two rows of marquise-cut diamonds. Diamonds in the lower row are placed end to end horizontally, and in the upper row inclining in opposite directions on either side of the shield-shaped diamond, giving the appearance of a lotus flower. A row of circular-cut diamonds are placed around the head of the goddess. The diamonds are mounted on 18k white gold. The jadeite and diamond pendant is suspended by a link-chain necklace of length 45 cm. The dimensions of the Guanyin figurine are 49.48 x 32.68 x 2.63 mm. A lab certificate issued by Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory states that the jadeite is natural, known in the trade as “A Jade”. The total weight of diamonds approximately 4.50 carats, color-grade E to F (colorless), and clarity-grade VS.
Lot 1764 is an exquisitely crafted “JADEITE, YELLOW SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PARURE,” consisting of a necklace, pair of pendant earrings and a ring, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD800,000 – 900,000 (USD103,112 – 116,001).
The front half of the 45.5 cm, 18k white and yellow gold necklace is set with nine icy, colorless, oval-shaped, jadeite cabochons spaced by yellow sapphire floret motifs. Each jadeite cabochon is highlighted by a circular-cut colorless diamond surround, mounted on white gold. Each floret is set with a central pear-shaped yellow sapphire and two circular-cut yellow sapphires towards its pointed end, mounted on yellow gold and forming a flower-bud motif.
The rear half of the necklace is made up of eight white gold loops, four on either side of the clasp, pave-set with circular-cut diamonds. The diamond loops are spaced by the same type of yellow-sapphire florets found in front of the necklace. The dimensions of the cabochons in the necklace vary from 16.21 x 14.31 x 9.51 mm (oval-shaped) to 13.13 x 12.43 x 8.36 mm (near-round shape).
Each of the pendant earrings is set with an icy, colorless, near-round jadeite cabochon, on 18k white gold, highlighted by a circular-cut colorless diamond surround, with a rhomboidal surmount also set with circular-cut diamonds, suspended from a yellow gold floret set with a large pear-shaped yellow sapphire and two smaller circular-cut yellow sapphires. The dimensions of the near-round jadeite cabochons are 13.89 x 12.69 x 9.02 mm and 13.18 x 11.82 x 8.90 mm.
The size 6 white gold ring is also set with an oval-shaped colorless jadeite cabochon with dimensions of 16.05 x 14.35 x 7.25mm, surrounded by a row of circular-cut colorless diamonds , flanked by a circular-cut yellow sapphire on the shoulders of the ring, mounted on yellow gold.
Three certificate issued by the Hong Kong Jade and Stone Laboratory state that the jadeite cabochons are natural, Type A jadeite, of colorless color known as icy jadeites. The total weight of yellow sapphires is 9.56 carats. The yellow color of sapphires of medium light to strong saturation. Total weight of diamonds 2.04 carats; color-grade of diamonds F to G color (colorless to near-colorless); average clarity grade of diamonds VS clarity, as graded in the mount.
Lot 1754 – titled, “JADEITE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE,” has a pre-sale estimate of HKD 480,000 – 600,000 (USD61,867 – 77,334). The 44 cm. single-strand necklace is set with twenty-six graduated, translucent, mainly oval-shaped, jadeite cabochons of bright green colour, spaced by circular-cut diamond floral motifs, each set with a central circular-cut diamond surrounded by six circular-cut diamonds representing the petals. The jadeite cabochons and diamonds are mounted on 18k white gold. The dimensions of the jadeite cabochons vary from 9.70 x 7.35 x 3.50 mm to 13.18 x 10.15 x 3.62 mm. A certificate issued by the Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory states that the jadeites tested are natural, known in the trade as “A Jade”.
NATURAL AND CULTURED PEARL LOTS
Lot 1666 is a natural pearl lot,titled “PAIR OF CLAM PEARL, SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND PEARL EARRINGS,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 260,000 – 320,000 (USD33,511 – 41,245). The lot combines both nacreous and non-nacreous pearls. However, the main component of the earrings are the non-nacreous clam pearls, set as the centerpiece of the earrings.
The centerpiece of each of the pair of earrings is a button-shaped clam pearl measuring approximately 13.65 mm and 13.60 mm respectively. The non-nacreous, saltwater clam pearls are white in color having a faint characteristic flame pattern found in some clam pearls. The central pearl is surrounded by 10 radiating shield-shaped blue sapphires, separated by rows of nacrous seed pearls. The seed pearls totaling 73 in number are round-shaped and white color, having a luster characteristic of saltwater nacrous pearls. Several circular-cut diamonds are also placed at various points on the earring. The pearls, sapphires and diamonds are mounted on 18k white gold.
GIA report no. 1238737077 accompanyng the lot states that the clam pearls are natural and saltwater pearls. It further states that the 73 seed pearls ranging in diameter from 2.4 mm to 2.78 mm are round shaped, white colour with excellent lustre. GIA report no. 5233738278, states that the sapphires are natural with no indications of heating. The Trapeze-shaped sapphires with total weight of 30.30 carats are medium violetish blue colour of moderate to good saturation. The diamonds weighing 0.60 carats have an average color-grade of F and clarity-grade of VS.
Lot 1648 is a cultured pearl lot, titled,”DOUBLE STRAND CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE AND PAIR OF MATCHING PENDANT EARRINGS,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 160,000 – 200,000 (USD20,622 – 25,778). The 42 cm (16.5 ins.) choker length necklace is a double strand necklace composed of sixty-two graduated cultured pearls; 33 pearls in the outer and 29 pearls in the inner strands. The pearls appear to be spherical to the naked eye, but may be near-spherical, button-shaped or oval, ranging in size from 11.68 x 12.07 mm to 15.09 x 15.02 mm. The pearls have a white body color with a slight rose overtone, with excellent luster and minor surface blemishes not visible to the naked eye. The two strands are connected behind to an 18k white gold openwork clasp set with circular-cut diamonds.
The matching pair of pendant earrings are each set with a cultured pearl, with white body color and rose overtone, and excellent luster, orient and surface quality. The dimensions of the two pearls are 14.00 x 13.69 mm and 13.80 x 13.90 mm.
Calculating the variation in diameter of the two pearls, we can decide whether the pearls are spherical, near-spherical or button-shaped.
1. Variation in diameter = (1 – shortest diameter/longest diameter) x 100
= (1 – 13.69/14.00) x 100 %
= (1 – 0.978) x 100
= 0.022 x 100
= 2.2 %
2. Variation in diameter = (1 – shortest diameter/longest diameter) x 100
= (1 – 13.80/13.90) x 100 %
= (1 – 0.993) x 100
= 0.007 x 100
= 0.7 %
Variation in diameter of perfectly spherical pearls = 0% to 2%
Variation in diameter of near-spherical pearls = 3% to 19%
Variation in diameter of button-shaped pearls > 20%
Variation in diameter of the two pearls are 2.2% and 0.7% . The first pearl has a variation in diameter slightly above 2% but still less than 3%. Hence, it can still be considered as a spherical pearl. The second pearl has a variation in diameter of 0.7% falling within the range of 0% to 2%, and hence undoubtedly a spherical pearl.
Thus the two pearls in the pair of pendant earrings are both spherical pearls.
The circular surmount of the pendant earrings has a circular-cut diamond in the center from which radiates several baguette-cut diamonds and a layer of small circular-cut diamonds bordering the surmount.
Some of the highlights of the branded jewelry are lot 1704 by Cartier, lot 1793 by Van Cleef & Arpels, lot 1639 by Tiffany & Co, lot 1632 by Schlumberger for Tiffany.
Lot 1704 – DIAMOND, SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND ONYX RING, ‘PANTHÈRE’, CARTIER with a pre-sale estimate of HKD900,000 – 1,200,000 (USD116,001 – 154,668) is a size 6, platinum ring, designed by Cartier as a panther ring; the body of the panther pavé-set with colorless circular-cut diamonds, interspersed with calibré-cut blue sapphires representing the spots; the eyes set with pear-shaped green emeralds; and the nose set with an onyx. Total weight of the diamonds estimated at approximately 4.90 carats. Color-grade of diamonds F to G (colorless to near-colorless) and clarity-grade around VS1. Calibre-cut sapphires are medium dark blue in color, of intense saturation.
Lot 1793 designed by Van Cleef & Arpels is titled, “DIAMOND BANGLE, ‘FLYING BUTTERFLY’, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS,” and has a pre-sale estimate of HKD 470,000 – 620,000 (USD60,578 – 79,912). The 18k white gold bangle signed VCA and numbered JH001989, is designed as three fluttering butterflies. Two of the butterflies are of openwork design highlighted by small circular-cut colorless diamonds. The third butterfly is a closed solid setting, the wings pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds is approximately 6.00 carats. The average color-grade of diamonds is E to F (colorless) and the average clarity-grade VVS to VS. The lot is accompanied by a Van Cleef & Arpels Authenticity Certificate.
Lot 1639 is a lot by Tiffany & Co. titled, “DIAMOND BRACELET, TIFFANY & CO,” with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 380,000 – 500,000 (USD48,978 – 64,445). The 20 cm. long platinum bracelet designed as a floral motif of twigs, open florets, leaves and buds, is set with circular-cut diamonds on the twigs and florets and marquise-cut diamonds on the leaves and buds. Estimated weight of the diamonds approximately 12.00 carats, average color-grade F-Color (Colorless) and average clarity-grade VS. The bracelet is signed Tiffany & Co. and numbered 21743119.
Lot 1632 designed by the chief designer of Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger is titled, “ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BANGLE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO,” and has a pre-sale estimate of HKD280,000 – 350,000 (USD36,089 – 45,112). The 18k yellow gold bangle, signed Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger, France, with an inner circumference of 17 cm. is designed as an articulated bangle, the lines of articulation retaining the yellow gold bands, but the intervening spaces coated with black enamel interspersed with collet-set circular-cut diamonds. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 4.50 carats; average color-grade F to G color (colorless to near-colorless); and average clarity grade VVS to VS clarity.