In a Press Release dated August 31, 2017, Sotheby’s Auction House has announced the holding of its Fine Jewels London Autumn Sale on September 20, 2017 at its New Bond Street, May Fair, London Auction Centre. A total of 297 Lots will be on offer at the Auction, which will be held in two sessions; Lots 1 to 147 being offered at the morning session commencing at 10.00 am and Lots 148 to 297 being offered at the afternoon session starting at 2.00 pm. The auction will be preceded by exhibition of the lots from September 16, 2017 to September 19, 2017, viewing times being 12.00 pm to 5.00 pm on September 16 and 17, 2017 and 9.00 am to 4.30 pm on the last two days September 18 and 19, 2017.
The sale offers a spectacular range of on-season jewels with an eclectic mix of pieces from the Edwardian and Art Deco periods, as well as signed jewels from timeless brands such a Cartier, Bulgari, Boucheron, and exquisitely crafted pieces from notable 20th century designers such as Grima, Pol Bury and Mosheh Oved, that brings together a much sought-after array of classic and contemporary jewels.
COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS
Based on pre-sale estimates colored gemstone lots are among the top highlights of the sale, the 1st, 2nd and 3rd highlight of the sale being a ruby, sapphire and emerald lot respectively.
Lot 101 – RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CHOPARD – is the top highlight of the sale with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 45,000 – 65,000 (USD 59,549 – 86,015). The 19.2 cm, 18k white gold bracelet with a width of 4.00 cm is designed as a well-articulated, flexible, open-work band, with circular-cut colorless diamonds set on the white gold network; larger oval-cut and circular-cut diamonds set alternately on the borders; and large heart-shaped rubies set at the center of the open-work. There are 23 heart-shaped rubies on the bracelet ranging in dimensions from 5.2 x 5.6 x 4.0 mm to 7.8 x 7.15 x 4.4 mm and calculated to weigh approximately from 0.78 carats to 1.62 carats respectively. The rubies are a medium purplish-red, transparent, with typical inclusions visible under magnification. The diamonds are bright and lively, estimated total weight approximately 19.00 to 21.00 carats; estimated color-grade G to I and average clarity-grade VS, as estimated on the mount. The bracelet is stamped Au 750 for 18 carat gold, signed Chopard and numbered 3302660 and 859260 at one end.
The 2nd Highlight of the sale is Lot 296 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 40,000 – 60,000 (USD 52,932 – 79,398). The size G, white metal ring is claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut Sri Lanka blue sapphire weighing 30.93 carats, the mount accented with single-cut diamonds. Gemmological Certification Services (GCS) report no. 77113-72, accompanying the lot state that the sapphire is of Sri Lanka (Ceylon) origin, with no indications of heat treatment, measuring approximately 17.2 x 15.8 x 11.4 mm. The Sapphire is deep blue in colour, transparent, with typical colour zoning and minor inclusions visible under magnification, weighing 30.93 carats. Diamonds are bright and lively, and estimated total diamond weight is approximately 0.80 – 1.00 carat.
The 3rd Highlight of the sale is Lot 271 – PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS – with an estimate of GBP 40,000 – 60,000 (USD 52,932 – 79,398). Each 18k white gold ear-pendant 5.4 cm in length is designed as a bow, set with baguette-cut, marquise-cut and brilliant-cut colorless diamonds, from which a drop-shaped emerald is suspended by a bell-cap surmount pavé-set with small round brilliant-cut diamonds. Dimensions of emeralds are 25 x 16.22 x 11.36 mm and 25 x 16.42 x 12.64 mm with a total weight of 55.58 carats. GRS report no. GRS2017-056669, accompanying the lot states that the emeralds are of Zambian origin, with evidence of minor to moderate clarity enhancement, accepted in the trade. Emeralds are medium-deep green, transparent and with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, some surface-reaching. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 4.00 – 5.00 carats; color-grade I to J; and average clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount.
Other significant colored gemstone lots are Lots 276, 3, 273,295, 182 and 142.
Lot 276 is another emerald lot with an estimate of GBP 26,000 – 35,000 (USD 34,406 – 46,316) and titled, EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE. The matinee length necklace 57.5 cm (22.6 ins) long, is designed as a graduated line of variously shaped 29 polished emerald beads, separated by rondelle spacers, with an 18k white gold spherical clasp at the rear of the necklace, set with tiny round brilliant-cut diamonds. Emeralds are deep green in color, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, some reaching the surface. Total weight of emeralds approximately 649.48 carats. Diamonds are bright and lively with total estimated weight of 7.00 -8.00 carats.
Lot 3 is an antique piece from the 2nd-half of 19th-century, titled DIAMOND AND CAT’S EYE CHRYSOBERYL PENDANT NECKLACE, SECOND HALF 19TH CENTURY, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 26,000 – 36,000 (USD 34,406 – 47,639). The 32 cm (12.6 ins) Collar length necklace, is designed as a graduated line of collet set circular-cut and cushion-shaped colorless diamonds, from which a detachable pendant is suspended. The pendant is set with a cabochon-cut, yellowish-green Cat’s eye chrysoberyl estimated to weigh 13.39 carats, surrounded by eight collet-set, circular-cut colorless diamonds. The yellowish-green chrysoberyl is opaque with prominent chatoyancy, and has dimensions of 14.5 x 10.3 x 8.9 mm. Estimated total weight of diamonds 20.00 to 23.00 carats, color-grade I to J and clarity-grade SI2 to I1, as as gauged and graded in the mount. The necklace is well-articulated, the clasp secure, with safety chain. The pendant fitting detachable. The lot is accompanied by six additional links.
Lot 273 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of GBP 22,000 – 28,000 (USD 29,113 – 37,052) is another colored gemstone highlight. The size O, 18k white gold ring is claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut Colombian emerald of estimated weight approximately 14.02 carats and round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds on the shoulders and upper shank of the ring. Gem and Pearl Laboratory report number 14028, states that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with evidence of minor clarity enhancement. The emerald having dimensions of 17.1 x 13.8 x 8.55 mm is medium green in color, transparent with translucent patches and has typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 1.20 to 1.30 carats.
Lot 295 is a sapphire and diamond lot titled, SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, 1960S, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 20,000 30,000 (USD 26,466 – 39,699). The 6.8 cm, 18k white gold brooch, signed Cartier Paris, is designed as a cockatoo.with the body, wings and tail set with carved blue sapphires and colorless/white brilliant-cut diamonds and accented with blue enamel. The comb is also set with colorless brillant-cut diamonds and carved blue sapphires. While the curved nose and beak are represented by 18k white gold, each of the eyes is set with an oval-cut ruby. The perch on which the bird rests is set with baguette-cut diamonds. The sapphires are deep blue in color, transparent to translucent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. The diamonds bright and lively, with estimated total weight of approximately 2.60 – 3.00 carats. The two rubies are deep red in color, transparent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. The transparent blue enamel is in good condition and the pin fittings are secure.
Lot 182 is another colored gemstone lot, titled, CITRINE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, 1940S, with an estimate of GBP 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 26,466 – 39,699). The 19 cm, yellow gold bracelet, signed Cartier, is designed as a flowering vine, made of eight florets. Each floret is claw-set with a central circular-cut yellowish-orange citrine, surrounded by five petals, three of which are collet-set with pear-shaped deep orange citrines and two collet-set with circular-cut deep orange citrines. The leaves of the vine arising from the stem are collet-set with single-cut and circular-cut colorless diamonds. The 48 citrines in the bracelet vary in color from yellowish-orange to deep orange, with some stones having typical inclusions under magnification and others apparently clean but may have color zoning. The diamonds are bright and lively, with estimated total weight of approximately 2.00-2.30 carats and an average clarity-grade of VS. The clasp closes securely.
Lot 142 is a ruby lot, titled, RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, with an estimate of GBP 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 26,466 – 39,699). The size M, yellow-gold and white-gold ring is bezel-set on yellow gold with a circular-cut, Burma ruby, weighing 5.13 carats and the shoulders set with brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. SSEF report no. 72604 accompanying the lot states that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The ruby is pinkish-red, transparent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, some surface-reaching, with dimensions of approximately 10 x 10.1 x 5.4 mm.
Significant diamond lots include lots 272, 297, 6, 267 and 278
Top highlight among diamond lots is lot 272 with an estimate of GBP 35,000 – 40,000 (USD 46,316 – 52,932) and titled, “DIAMOND RING.” The size N½, solitaire platinum ring is claw-set with a marquise-shaped, D-color, VS1 clarity diamond weighing 3.93 carat. GIA report no. 2155959737, dated February 2014, states that the diamond is D colour, VS1 clarity, without fluorescence, weighing 3.93 carats.
Lot 297 is another DIAMOND RING with an estimate of GBP 26,000 – 32,000 (USD 34,406 – 42,346). The size O½, solitaire platinum ring is claw-set with a round brilliant-cut, approximately M+ color, VS2 clarity diamond with strong blue florescence weighing 16.80 carats.
Lot 6 – DIAMOND RING – a solitaire ring with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 26,000 – 36,000 (USD 34,406 – 47,639) is another diamond lot of the sale. The size L solitaire ring is claw-set with a round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 6.22 carats. The ring signed Pederzani is stamped with numbers 6.22 on inside of hoop, indicating the weight of the diamond. According to Sotheby’s specialists’ opinion, the diamond weighing 6.22 carats is approximately L colour and VS2 clarity.
Lot 267 – DIAMOND NECKLACE – with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 24,000 – 32,000 (USD 31,759 – 42,346) is another highlight of the sale. The 40.5 cm (15.9 ins) choker length elliptical link chain necklace, interspersed by circular-cut diamonds at points where the links meet, suspends seven graduated circular-cut diamonds in the front, by means of diamond-set foliate suspensions. According to Sotheby’s specialists’ opinion, the diamonds weighing 4.81, 2,70, 2.64, 2.62, 2.40, 2.12, and 2.12 carats are approximately L, M, L, L, L, M and M colour respectively with clarity grades of SI1, VS1, VS1, VS1, SI1, VS1, VS1 respectively. The largest circular-cut diamond weighing 4.81 carats is L-color and SI-1 clarity. Estimated total weight of remaining diamonds approximately 2.50 to 2.70 carats and average clarity grade SI. The clasp which closes securely is also set with circular-cut diamonds.
Lot 278 – FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of GBP 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 26,466 – 39,699) is another significant diamond lot. The size I½, yellow-gold and white metal ring is claw-set on yellow gold with a cushion-shaped, fancy intense yellow, VS-1 clarity diamond, with a medium blue florescence, weighing 3.03 carats, highlighted by two rows of brilliant-cut colorless diamonds, and the shoulders and upper shank of the ring also set with brilliant cut diamonds. Estimated total weight of brilliant-cut diamonds 0.90 carats and average clarity grade of SI. GIA report no. 16162138, dated June 2007, states that the central diamond weighing 3.03 carats is natural Fancy Intense Yellow, VS-1 clarity, with a medium blue fluorescence.
Some of the significant signed jewels include lots 206, 65, 97, 188, 245, 237, 147, 137
Lot 206 is a diamond ring by Cartier, titled, DIAMOND RING ‘PANTHÈRE’, CARTIER, with an estimate of GBP 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 26,466 – 39,699). The 18k yellow gold ring of crossover design is pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds. The eyes on the head of the Panthere are set with pear-shaped emeralds and the nose with black onyx. The ring signed Cartier bears French assay marks and is numbered 709947 on interior of the ring. Estimated total weight of diamonds 6.00 to 7.00 carats. The emeralds are deep green and transparent and the Onyx black and opaque. The ring size is approximately N, but the band is expandable.
Lot 65 is another timeless brand from the renowned jewelry house, Tiffany & Co. titled, RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, TIFFANY & CO., EARLY 20TH CENTURY, with an estimate of GBP 18,000 =22,000 (USD 23,819 – 29,113). The size M white metal ring signed Tiffany & Co on the shank is set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut purplish-red Burma ruby as centerpiece with calibré-cut ruby corner accents and millegrain-set single and circular-cut diamonds on the shoulders and the edges of the gallery of the ring. GIA report no. 2185144821 accompanying the lot states that the central ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat treatment. The central ruby with dimensions of approximately 9.00 x 8.65 x 5.03 mm is deep purplish-red in color, transparent and with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, with an estimated weight of 3.92 carats. The Diamonds are bright and lively, with an estimated total weight of approximately 0.90 – 1.20 carats.
Lot 97 – DIAMOND AND EMERALD DEMI-PARURE, MONTURE BOUCHERON, 1960S – is another signed jewel by a timeless brand with an estimate of GBP 18,000 – 26,000 (USD 23,819 – 34,406). The demi-parure consists of a brooch and pair of ear clips. The 6.5 cm brooch designed as a spray, is claw-set on 18k yellow gold, with three step-cut emeralds, on its lower half and baguette-cut diamonds on three bands in the upper half and round brilliant cut diamonds within navicular or marquise-shaped structures both in the upper and lower halves. GCS, report no. 77116-23, states that the emeralds are natural with moderate amount of oil in fissures. Two emeralds are of Colombian origin and the 3rd emerald of Zambian origin. Emeralds are medium green in color, transparent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. The largest emerald measures approximately 8.8 x 8.7 x 5.8 mm and the smallest emerald approximately 7.2 x 6.8 x 3.0 mm, and are respectively estimated to weigh approximately 3.08 carats and 1.02 carats. Brooch and ear clip fittings are signed Monture Boucheron and carry French assay marks and maker’s marks. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 10.50 – 12.50 carats, color-grade I to J color, and average clarity grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount.
Each of the earclips of similar design, 3.6 cm long, is claw-set on 18k yellow gold with a single cut-cornered rectangular step-cut emerald at the bottom, from which arises the 18k white gold spray design consisting of a rosette of six navicular or marquise-shaped motifs, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and a single band arising from the center, set with several baguette-cut diamonds. The brooch fittings and ear clip fittings are in good working order, closing securely.
Lot 188 – RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, “PELOUSE” VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 1960S, with an estimate of GBP 5,000 – 7,000 (USD 6,617 – 9,263) is another signed jewel by a renowned jewelry house. The 16.5 cm, 18k yellow gold bracelet signed VCA, numbered M36725 and bearing French and British assay and maker’s marks, is designed as a flexible boule band, set to the front with diagonal rows of circular-cut rubies, intersected by rows of circular-cut diamonds. The rubies are well matched with medium to dark red color. The diamonds are bright and lively.
Lot 137 – Opal and diamond watch pendant, ‘About Time’, Grima, 1970s – with an estimate of GBP 7,000 – 9,000 (USD 9,263 – 11,910) is a significant lot from the renowned 20th-century designer Grima. The 61.7 cm, 18k white gold rectangular-linked chain, suspends an opal and diamond watch pendant, with a manual winding watch with plain dial and tapered hands behind a pear-shaped polished opal crystal, within a surround of triangular diamonds, signed Grima, numbered, with maker’s marks for Andrew Grima and Omega and British hallmarks on the platinum back of the watch.
Lot 147 – Bangle, Pol Bury – with an estimate of GBP 8,000 – 10,000 (USD 10,586 – 13,233) is another significant lot from a notable 20th-century designer. The 18k gold bicoloured cuff of hinged design is set with spheres to the interior and exterior and has an inner circumference of approximately 164-172 mm, signed Pol Bury, numbered 7/8, first edition made in 1966.