APOLLO AND ARTEMIS DIVINE DIAMOND TWINS TO LEAD SOTHEBY’S GENEVA MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS SPRING SALE ON MAY 16, 2017

Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Spring Sale 2017, will be held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Geneva, on May 16, 2017, with the much-awaited auction being held in two segments, Part 1 and Part 2. Part 1 of the auction offering a total of 307 lots will be held in two sessions, Session 1 starting at 10.30 AM offering Lots 1 to 150 and Session 2 starting at 2.30 PM offering Lots 151 to 307. Part 2 of the auction starting at 7.00 PM in the evening will offer lots 308 to 378, the climax of the auction undoubtedly being Lots 377 & 378 – the Apollo and Artemis – two breath-taking and exceptional stones, the divine diamond twins, named for the twins, son Apollo and daughter Artemis of the Greek God Zeus and Goddess Leto. Apollo a pear-shaped blue diamond and Artemis, a pear-shaped pink diamond are perfectly matched in size, cut and tonality and mounted in a spectacular pair of earrings.

Lots 377 and 378 - Apollo and Artemis diamonds mounted on a spectacular pair of earrings
Lots 377 and 378 – Apollo and Artemis diamonds mounted on a spectacular pair of earrings

However, the extremely rare blue and pink diamonds are offered as separate lots at the auction, the Apollo Blue diamond being assigned Lot No. 377 and titled “Superb and extremely rare fancy vivid blue diamond,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 38,125,000 – 50,160,000 (USD 38,645,406 – 50,844,684), the highest valued lot of the entire auction.

Lot 377 - Superb and extremely rare fancy vivid blue diamond
Lot 377 – Superb and extremely rare fancy vivid blue diamond

The Apollo Blue is a Pear-shaped, Fancy Vivid Blue, Internally Flawless, 14.54-carat diamond mounted on platinum as a pendant earring from a surmount consisting of a pear-shaped and round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. GIA report no. 1176680448 accompanying the lot states that the pear brilliant-cut diamond weighing 14.54 carats and measuring 22.88 x 14.63 x 7.42 mm, is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Color and Internally Flawless. Diamond type classification letter annexed to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIb diamond, a most elite group comprising less than one-half of one percent of all diamonds, pure and free of any nitrogen but containing traces of boron, the element that gives the diamond its blue color.

Lot 377 - 14.54-carat, pear-shaped, fancy vivid blue, internally flawless Apollo Diamond unmounted
Lot 377 – 14.54-carat, pear-shaped, fancy vivid blue, internally flawless Apollo Diamond unmounted

The Artemis diamond is assigned Lot No.378 and titled. “Very important fancy intense pink diamond,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 12,545,000 – 18,060,000 (USD 12,716,239 – 18,306,519) placed on it, the second highest valued lot of the sale.

Lot 378 - Very important fancy intense pink diamond
Lot 378 – Very important fancy intense pink diamond

The Artemis diamond is a Pear-shaped, Fancy Intense Pink, VVS2 Clarity, 16.00-carat diamond mounted on platinum as a pendant earring from a surmount consisting of a pear-shaped and round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. GIA report no. 1172688201 accompanying the lot states that the pear modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 16.00 carats and measuring 23.95 x 13.93 x 7.71 mm, is Fancy Intense Pink, Natural Color and VVS2 Clarity. Diamond type classification letter annexed to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIa diamond, chemically pure, free of nitrogen but having structural distortions that impart the pink color to the diamonds and whose occurrence is less than 0.1% of all naturally occurring diamonds.

Lot 378 - Artemis Diamond unmounted
Lot 378 – Artemis Diamond unmounted

OTHER SIGNIFICANT COLORED DIAMOND LOTS

Other significant colored diamond lots include Lots 371, 363A and 364.

Lot 371 - Superb fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring, Piaget
Lot 371 – Superb fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring, Piaget

Lot 371 – “Superb fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring, Piaget,” is the 3rd highest valued lot of the sale, with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 8,030,000 – 12,040,000 (USD 8,139,609 – 12,204,346). The size 51 ring signed Piaget, is set with a modified rectangular brilliant-cut, fancy intense purplish pink, VS1 clarity diamond weighing 7.04 carats, flanked by triangular-cut, colorless diamonds on its shoulders. GIA report no. 2185179812 accompanying the lot states that the modified rectangular brilliant-cut diamond weighing 7.04 carats and measuring 13.30 x 12.28 x 5.69 mm, is Fancy Intense Purplish Pink, Natural Color and VS1 Clarity. Diamond type classification letter annexed to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIa diamond, chemically pure, free of nitrogen but having structural distortions that impart the pink color to the diamonds.

Lot 363A - Fancy vivid blue diamond ring
Lot 363A – Fancy vivid blue diamond ring

Lot 363A – “Fancy vivid blue diamond ring,” is the 4th highest valued lot of the sale, with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 6,055,000 – 8,070,000 (USD 6,137,651 – 8,180,155). The size 51 1/2, 14k white gold ring is set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut, fancy vivid blue, Internally Flawless, 3.32-carat diamond, flanked by triangular colorless diamonds mounted on the shoulders of the ring. GIA report no. 11892488, dated 12 March 2002, accompanying the lot states that the 3.32-carat step-cut diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Color, Internally Flawless. An updated report by GIA dated 18 April 2017, states that the step-cut diamond weighing 3.32 carats, measuring 9.70 x 8.81 x 4.10 mm, is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Color and Internally Flawless. Triangular-cut colorless diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 2.00-2.50 carats, with an average color-grade of F to G and clarity grade of VS, as gauged and graded in the mount.

Lot 364 - Attractive fancy pink diamond ring
Lot 364 – Attractive fancy pink diamond ring

Lot 364 – “Attractive fancy pink diamond ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 3,010,000 -5,015,000 (USD 3,051,087 – 5,083,455) is the 5th highest valued lot of the sale. size 54 1/2, 14k pink gold ring is set with a cushion-shaped, fancy pink, VVS2 clarity diamond weighing 21.11 carats, the shoulders and upper shank of the ring mounted with brilliant-cut diamonds of near-colorless and pink tints. GIA report no. 15270288, dated 15 November 2006, accompanying the lot states that the cushion-shaped diamond weighing 21.11 carats and measuring 20.98 x 13.24 x 9.36 mm, is Fancy Pink, Natural Color and VVS2 Clarity.

COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS

Significant colorless diamond lots include Lots 372, 326, 370, and 376.

Lot 372 - Important diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels
Lot 372 – Important diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels

Lot 372 is the highest valued colorless diamond lot, with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 1,610,000 – 2,010,000 (USD 1,631,977 – 2,037,436) and titled “Important diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels.” The size 52, platinum ring signed Van Cleef & Arpels is set with a rectangular emerald-cut, D-Color, VVS1-Clarity diamond weighing 21.60 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. GIA report no. 5181179788, accompanying the lot states that the step-cut diamond weighing 21.60 carats and measuring 16.61 x 14.75 x 10.19 mm, is D Color, VVS1 Clarity. A working diagram attached to the report states that the diamond may be internally flawless after minor re-polishing. Diamond Type Classification letter accompanying the report states that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms the D-Color status of the diamond.

Lot 326 - Important diamond ring, Harry Winston
Lot 326 – Important diamond ring, Harry Winston

Lot 326 is the second highest valued colorless diamond lot of the sale, titled, “Important diamond ring, Harry Winston,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 1,510,000 – 2,510,000 (USD 1,530,612 – 2,544,262). The size 49, platinum ring signed WINSTON, is set with a pear-shaped,D-color,VVS1 clarity diamond weighing 32.42 carats,flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds on its shoulders. GIA report no. 667088 accompanying the lot states that the pear-shaped diamond weighing 32.42 carats, with dimensions of 26.05 x 18.62 x 11.09 mm, is D Color and VVS1 Clarity. A working diagram accompanying the report states that the diamond may be internally flawless after minor re-polishing. Diamond Type Classification letter attached to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms the D-color status of the stone.

Lot 370 - Pair of fine diamond earrings
Lot 370 – Pair of fine diamond earrings

Lot 370 – “Pair of fine diamond earrings,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 1,510,000 – 2,010,000 (USD 1,530,612 – 2,037,436) is the third highest valued colorless diamond lot of the sale. Each of the pair of pendant earrings suspends a matching pear-shaped, D-color, Flawless Clarity diamond weighing respectively 9.34 and 9.72 carats, mounted on 18k white gold, with hook fittings for suspension from the ear lobe. Two GIA reports, nos. 2175765763 and 2175590740, in respect of pear-shaped diamonds weighing 9.34 and 9.72 carats with dimensions of 18.18 x 12.21 x 7.07 mm and 18.67 x 12.36 x 6.95 mm respectively, state that the diamonds are D Color, Flawless Clarity with Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Two diamond type classification letters attached to the reports state that the pear-shaped diamonds have been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms the D-Color status of the diamonds.

Lot 376 - Important diamond ring, M. Gérard
Lot 376 – Important diamond ring, M. Gérard

Lot 376, the 4th highest valued colorless diamond lot, titled “Important diamond ring, M. Gérard,” has a pre-sale estimate of CHF 1,310,000 – 1,910,000 (USD 1,327,882 – 1,936,072). The size 51 1/2, 18k yellow gold ring Signed M. GERARD and numbered CS897, is set with a marquise-shaped, D-color, VVS2 clarity diamond weighing 19.53 carats, flanked by pear-shaped, colorless diamonds on its shoulders. GIA report no. 2183179826 accompanying the lot states that the marquise-shaped brilliant-cut diamond weighing 19.53 carats and measuring 28.31 x 12.98 x 8.74 mm, is D Color and VVS2 Clarity. A working diagram attached to the report also states that the diamond may be internally flawless after minor re-polishing. Diamond Type Classification letter accompanying the report states that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms the D-color status of the diamond.

BLUE SAPPHIRE LOTS

Important and significant blue sapphire lots include lots 340, 312, 265 and 329

Fine sapphire and diamond ring
Fine sapphire and diamond ring

The most valued blue sapphire lot is Lot 340, titled, “Fine sapphire and diamond ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 1,310,000 – 1,910,000 (USD 1,327,882 – 1,936,072). The size 57, platinum and 18k yellow-gold ring, is claw-set on yellow gold with a cushion-shaped, Kashmir blue sapphire of “royal blue” color of strong saturation, with very good transparency, weighing 11.64 carats, flanked by triangular-shaped colorless diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL bearing Nos. 90970 and 13080071 respectively state that the cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 11.64 carats, measuring 14.02 x 12.81 x 7.62 mm, is of Kashmir origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement.

Lot 312 - Important sapphire and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels
Lot 312 – Important sapphire and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels

Lot 312, the second highest valued sapphire lot, is another ring, titled, “Important sapphire and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 810,000 – 1,410,000 (USD 821,057 – 1,429,247). The size 49, platinum ring signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered 16146 S.A. is set with a rectangular emerald-cut Burma blue sapphire of strong and even saturation, with minor typical inclusions, weighing 45.74 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds on its shoulders. SSEF report no. 90968, accompanying the lot states that the step-cut sapphire weighing 45.74 carats, measuring 20.57 x 17.00 x 13.25 mm, is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating and of ‘royal blue’ color.

Lot 265 - Sapphire and diamond ring
Lot 265 – Sapphire and diamond ring

Lot 265, the next highlight among blue sapphire lots with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 510,000 – 810,000 (USD 516,961 – 821,057) is titled, “Sapphire and diamond ring.” The size 58 ring of geometric design is set with a 10.91-carat, cushion-shaped Kashmir blue sapphire, with its characteristic cornflower blue color of strong and even saturation, highlighted by brilliant-cut colorless diamonds and calibré-cut sapphires on the gallery of the ring and flanked by baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL numbered 91546 and 16120081 respectively state that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement.

Lot 329 - Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Lot 329 – Sapphire and Diamond Ring

Lot 329 is another significant blue sapphire lot with an estimate of CHF 505,000 – 710,000 (USD 511,893 – 719,692) and given the title “Sapphire and diamond ring.” The size 51, 18k white gold ring, with Swiss Maker’s mark for Séchaud, is set with a sugar-loaf, cabochon-cut Kashmir blue sapphire with its characteristic cornflower blue color of strong saturation, and typical inclusions found in Kashmir sapphires not visible to the naked eye but under 10x magnification. The gallery and shoulders of the ring are pavé-set with brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. Two lab reports by GGL and SSEF numbered 1004050 and 90977 and dated 13 April 2010 and 15 March 2017 respectively, state that the cabochon sapphire weighing 11.83 carats and measuring 12.95 x 11.41 x 9.31 mm, is of Kashmir origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement.

EMERALD LOTS

Significant emerald lots include Lots 358, 263, 173 and 368.

Attractive emerald and diamond necklace, late 19th century and later
Attractive emerald and diamond necklace, late 19th century and later

Lot 358, titled “Attractive emerald and diamond necklace, late 19th century and later,” is the highest valued emerald lot with an estimate of CHF 510,000 – 810,000 (USD 516,961 – 821,057). The 38.5 cm (15.1 in), choker length necklace, signed Janesich, is set with nine step-cut emeralds, separated by three collet-set, circular-cut and cushion-cut colorless diamonds. The central emerald in the front, which is also the largest emerald in the necklace, is a rectangular emerald-cut emerald. Four emeralds of similar size and shape are placed symmetrically on either side of this median emerald. The emeralds are either round-cornered rectangular-cut or square-cut emeralds. SSEF report no. 8902 accompanying the lot, states that the nine round-cornered rectangular and square-cut emeralds with dimensions of approximately 10.65 x 10.45 x 6.00 mm to 16.30 x 14.50 x 7.50 mm, are of Colombian origin. Three of these are with a minor amount of oil in fissures, and six with a moderate amount of oil in fissures, treatment accepted in the trade. The green color of the emeralds are of medium strong saturation, and their weight estimated to vary from approximately 4.50 to 12.05 carats. Total estimated weight of emeralds approximately 60.00 – 65.00 carats, as gauged in the mounting. Total estimated weight of diamonds approximately 20.00 – 30.00 carats, estimated color-grade, on average H-J colour (a few L-M) and clarity-grade SI-I (a few VS), as gauged and graded in the mount.

Lot 263 - Unmounted Emerald
Lot 263 – Unmounted Emerald

Lot 263 with an estimate of CHF 325,000 – 425,000 (USD 329,436 – 430,801) is the second most valued emerald lot of the sale, titled, “Unmounted emerald.” The cut-cornered, rectangular emerald-cut emerald is of Colombian origin and weighs 13.62 carats. The Colombian origin of the emerald is confirmed by two independent lab reports by SSEF and GGL. While the SSEF report bearing No. 90241, states that the step-cut emerald weighing 13.62 carats and having dimensions of 16.27 x 13.95 x 7.76 mm, is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity modification, the GGL report bearing No. 17030001, states that the step-cut emerald weighing 13.62 carats and having dimensions of 16.27 x 13.96 x 7.7 mm, is of Colombian origin, with indications of insignificant clarity enhancement. The difference in the two reports, absence of clarity enhancement in the SSEF report and insignificant clarity enhancement in the GGL report, is also not significant. However, clarity enhancement by oil treatment in emeralds be it minor, moderate or significant is accepted in the trade, as the presence of cracks, fissures and other inclusions, known as “Jardin” is a characteristic feature of all naturally occurring emeralds.

Lot 173 - Emerald and Diamond Ring, Harry Winston
Lot 173 – Emerald and Diamond Ring, Harry Winston

Lot 173 – “Emerald and diamond ring, Harry Winston,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 305,000 – 505,000 (USD 309,163 – 511,893) is the third most highest valued emerald lot of the sale. The size 53, platinum ring signed Winston, and with maker’s mark for Jacques Timey, is set with a cut-cornered rectangular emerald-cut emerald, weighing 14.49 carats, highlighted by a row of pear-shaped diamonds. SSEF report no. 86892 accompanying the lot states that the step-cut emerald weighing 14.49 carats and with dimensions of 15.22 x 15.06 x 9.70 mm, is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures, meaning minor clarity enhancement. The ring is also inscribed with the word PLATINUM and stamped Pt 950 for platinum, and inscribed with the numbers 14.50, referring to the carat weight of the emerald. The emerald is of medium green color with strong saturation, good transparency and some typical inclusions of which a few are surface reaching. The colorless pear-shaped diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 4.50 – 5.00 carats, with an average color-grade of G-H colour and clarity-grade of VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.

Lot 368 - Emerald, Enamel and Diamond Bracelet-Watch, 'Dragon', Bulgari, 1960s
Lot 368 – Emerald, Enamel and Diamond Bracelet-Watch, ‘Dragon’, Bulgari, 1960s

Lot 368, titled “Emerald, enamel and diamond bracelet-watch, ‘Dragon’, Bulgari, 1960s,” is another significant emerald lot with an estimate of CHF 205,000 – 305,000 (USD 207,798 – 309,163. The bracelet-watch designed in the early 1960s as a serpent/dragon by Bulgari, has a highly articulated, spiral body composed of green enameled scale-like links, further highlighted with marquise-shaped diamonds, The head and tail of the serpent/dragon are pavé-set with brilliant-cut, marquise- and pear-shaped colorless diamonds. The eyes are accented with cabochon rubies. At the center of the head is a bezel-set pear-shaped emerald, which opens to reveal a circular LeCoultre watch, with the dial signed Jaeger-LeCoultre and inscribed as Swiss Made. The bezel is set with single-cut diamonds. The bracelet is signed Bulgari. The watch however is not in running condition and therefore requires a service at the buyer’s expense. Estimated total weight of diamonds is approximately 15.00 – 18.00 carats, estimated color-grade H-J and clarity-grade SI-I, as gauged and graded in the mounting.

NATURAL PEARL LOTS

Some of the highlights of natural pearl lots are lots 363, 361 and 96.

Lot 363 - Pair of important natural pearl and diamond pendent ear clips, Alexandre Reza
Lot 363 – Pair of important natural pearl and diamond pendent ear clips, Alexandre Reza

Top lot among natural pearls with an estimate of CHF 1,010,000 – 1,510,000 (USD 1,023,786 – 1,530,612) is Lot 363 – “Pair of important natural pearl and diamond pendent ear clips, Alexandre Reza.” Each of the pair of pendant ear clips is set with a drop-shaped natural pearl, suspended by a bellcap arrangement, within a drop-shaped diamond surround set with round brilliant-cut diamonds on 18k yellow gold. The matching pair of drop-shaped saltwater natural pearls, having a slightly cream body colour, with rosé and green overtones, and good surface quality and lustre, have dimensions respectively of 12.30 x 12.70 x 22.70 mm and 12.35 x 12.40 x 22.20 mm. Each of the pendants is detachable from the 18k yellow gold surmounts of flame design set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. SSEF report no. 91276 accompanying the lot, states that the drop shaped pearls measuring approximately 12.30 x 12.70 x 22.70 mm and 12.35 x 12.40 x 22.20 mm, were found to be natural, saltwater pearls. An appendix letter attached to the report expresses the rarity of this perfectly matching pair of natural saltwater pearls. Estimated total weight of diamonds is approximately 17.64 carats, estimated color-grade G-I colour and clarity-grade VS-SI, as gauged and graded in the mount.

Lot 361 - Natural Pearl and Diamond Tiara, Chaumet
Lot 361 – Natural Pearl and Diamond Tiara, Chaumet

Lot 361 another highlight of the natural pearl lots with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 82,000 – 125,000 (USD 83,119 – 126,706) is titled, “Natural pearl and diamond devant-de-corsage/tiara combination.” The 24 cm, yellow gold and white metal tiara designed by Chaumet is of foliage and fruit design composed of eight detachable foliage motifs, in which the stem and stalk of the fruits are made of yellow gold and the stalk and midrib of the leaves made of a white metal which may be white gold or platinum. The frame of the tiara is accented with rose-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds. The leaves are set with circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds and the fruits at the end of the yellow gold stalks are represented by natural round, white, cream, brown and gray pearls or round brilliant-cut diamonds. There are 25 such natural pearls in the tiara and 9 round brilliant-cut diamonds. Hence, altogether there are 34 fruits in the tiara.

Lot 361 - Natural Pearl and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage Brooches
Lot 361 – Natural Pearl and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage Brooches

The tiara can be dismounted to give two foliage and fruit motif, devant-de-corsage brooches of unequal length. The shorter brooch is made of three foliage motifs with white metal midrib, veins and margin, set with circular-cut and cushion-shaped colorless diamonds. Out of 10 fruits situated at the end of yellow gold stalks, 6 are made of round white, cream, grey and brown natural pearls and the remaining 4 of round brilliant-cut diamonds.
The longer brooch on the other hand is made up of five foliage motifs, also with white metal midrib, veins and margin and set with circular-cut and cushion-shaped colorless diamonds. Out of 24 fruits situated at the end of yellow gold stalks, 19 are made of round white, cream, gray and brown natural pearls and the remaining 5 of round brilliant-cut diamonds.

Lot 96 - Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace
Lot 96 – Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace

Lot 96 – “Natural pearl and diamond necklace,” is another significant natural pearl lot with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 76,000 – 126,000 (USD 77,037 – 127,720). The 47.5 cm (18.7 ins.), Princess length, single strand natural pearl necklace, with Italian assay and maker’s marks, is made up of a graduated row of 39 natural pearls, varying in size between 7.85 to 13.85 mm, with the larger pearls situated in the front and the pearls gradually decreasing in size towards the clasp of the pearl situated behind. The yellow gold and white gold clasp of open work design is set with a round brilliant-cut diamond at the center, surrounded by 8 round brilliant-cut diamonds. SSEF report no. 88914 accompanying the lot states that the 39 baroque-button, baroque-drop-shaped and baroque pearls, with dimensions of approximately 7.85 to 13.85 mm, were found to be natural saltwater pearls, with white to slightly creamy body color, rose and green overtones and the surface having some growth marks and blemishes.

RUBY LOTS

Among the significant ruby lots are lots 374, 244, 328A, 197 and 205

Lot 374- Attractive and Rare Ruby, Onyx and Diamond Bracelet, Lacloche, circa 1925
Lot 374- Attractive and Rare Ruby, Onyx and Diamond Bracelet, Lacloche, circa 1925

Lot 374, titled, “Attractive and rare ruby, onyx and diamond bracelet, Lacloche, circa 1925,” with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 310,000 – 510,000 (USD 314,232 – 516,961) is the highest valued ruby lot of the sale. The 18 cm (7.1 ins.), Art Deco platinum bracelet with a combination of openwork geometric, floral and foliage designs has six equally spaced rose motifs set with cabochon rubies, surrounded by openwork foliage leaves, millegrain-set with circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds. The twigs between the rose motifs are set with black onyx. The areas outside the floral and foliage motifs are occupied by open work polygonal areas, also millegrain-set with circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds. The bracelet signed Lacloche Paris,has French assay mark for platinum. The rubies are very well matched in colour, purplish red, with small scratches. Onyx is in overall good condition. Total estimated weight of diamonds approximately 28.00 – 30.00 carats, average color-grade G to I and clarity-grade SI to I, as gauged and graded in the mount.

Lot 244 - Ruby, emerald and diamond demi-parure, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s
Lot 244 – Ruby, emerald and diamond demi-parure, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s

Lot 244, with an estimate of CHF 280,000 – 380,000 (USD 283,822 – 385,187) is another significant ruby lot on the sale, and is a demi-parure by Van Cleef & Arpels, titled, “Ruby, emerald and diamond demi-parure, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s.” The demi-parure consists of a versatile necklace that can also be worn as two bracelets and a matching pair of ear-clips.The 44 cm (17.3 ins), Princess length, 18k yellow gold necklace, signed Van Cleef & Arpels or V.C.A. and numbered 18355 on every segment, is designed as a line of 14 claw-set, variously shaped, cabochon rubies framed by a row of 9 to 12 round brilliant-cut diamonds. While the 7 cabochon rubies on the lower half of the necklace are surrounded by 12 round brilliant-cut diamonds, the 7 cabochon rubies on the rear half of the necklace are surrounded by only 9 to 10 round brilliant-cut diamonds. The ruby-centered rosettes on the necklace are separated by foliate motifs consisting of a pair of opposite leaves bezel-set with circular-cut emeralds, and a single brilliant-cut diamond placed between the terminal pair of opposite leaves. The Rubies are well matched in color, purplish red of strong saturation and translucent with typical inclusions. The diamonds are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 34.00 – 38.00 carats, with an average color-grade of F to H and clarity-grade of VS-SI, as gauged and graded in the mount. The lot is accompanied by two Van Cleef & Arpels certificates of authenticity.

Lot 244 - Matching Pair of Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Ear-clips
Lot 244 – Matching Pair of Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Ear-clips

The matching pair of 18k yellow gold ear-clips, each signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered 17804, with similar motifs as in the necklace, is centered around a claw-set, spherical cabochon-cut, purplish-red ruby, highlighted by a row of 8 colorless, round brilliant-cut diamonds and a foliate motif on the upper side of the ear-clip, consisting of 4 leaves bezel-set with circular-cut emeralds.

Lot 328A - Pair of Attractive Ruby and Diamond Ear Clips, Bulgari
Lot 328A – Pair of Attractive Ruby and Diamond Ear Clips, Bulgari

Lot 328A with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 152,000 – 252,000 (USD 154,075 – 255,440) is another significant ruby lot of the sale, titled, “Pair of attractive ruby and diamond ear clips, Bulgari.” Each of the pair of 18k yellow gold ear-clips, signed Bulgari, is centered around a sugar loaf ruby weighing respectively 14.48 and 14.79 carats, well matched in color and having a red color of medium strong saturation, and highlighted by an inner row of 8 marquise-cut colorless diamonds and an outer partial row of 5 marquise-cut colorless diamonds. SSEF report no. 80471 accompanying the lot states that the sugar-loaf rubies measuring approximately 14.50 x 12.70 x 8.60 mm and 14.45 x 12.80 x 8.50 mm, are of East African origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement. Total estimated weight of diamonds 5.50-6.50 carats, color-grade H-I (near-colorless) and clarity-grade VS-SI, as gauged and graded in the mount.

Lot 197 - Pair of Ruby and diamond Pendent Earrings, Cartier, circa 1932
Lot 197 – Pair of Ruby and diamond Pendent Earrings, Cartier, circa 1932

Lot 197 is another significant Ruby lot with an estimate of CHF 127,000 – 230,000 (USD 128,734 – 233,140) and titled, “Pair of ruby and diamond pendent earrings, Cartier, circa 1932.” The Art Deco, platinum pendant earrings designed by Cartier around year 1932, is of geometric design, with a triangular motif and a linear suspension, with screw fittings at its end. The triangular motif is set with triangular-cut, baguette-cut and circular-cut diamonds. The linear suspension is set with circular-cut diamonds. Three circular cabochon rubies are suspended from the lower side of the triangular motif. The earrings are signed Cartier Paris, numbered 8970 and HSA 3363, with French assay marks for platinum and indistinct maker’s marks. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 4.00 – 5.00 carats, estimated color-grade G to H color and clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount. The purplish-red rubies are well matched in color, with typical inclusions. The lot is accompanied by a Cartier Certificate of Authenticity.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *