The much anticipated Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale 2018, featuring an array of rare and exceptional jewels is due to take place on Tuesday, April 3rd 2018 at Hall 5, of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. A total of 283 jewels will be on offer at the sale to be held in two sessions, the first session starting at 1.30 PM featuring lots 1501 to 1667 and the second session starting at 4.30 PM featuring lots 1668 to 1783. The sale will be preceded by exhibition of the lots from Thursday, March 29th 2018 to Monday, April 2nd 2018, the exhibition times being 10.00 AM to 5-30 PM HKT on March 29, 2018; 10.00 AM to 8.00 PM HKT on March 30 and 31, 2018 and 10.00 AM to 6.30 PM HKT on April 01 and 02, 2018.
The lots feature an exceptional curation of rare treasures from nature, led by a Superb Jadeite Bangle, appropriately christened “The Circle of Heaven,” with an estimate of HK$80 – 100 Million (US$10,230,000-12,790,000) and an “Important and Spectacular Ruby and Diamond Ring” set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 24.70 carats, with an estimate of HK$82 – 92 Million (US$10,490,000-11,770,000), alongside exquisite masterpieces by legendary jewelers and designers such as Bulgari, Cartier, Mouawad, Oscar Heyman & Brothers, Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. A special curation of show stopping earrings, classic period jewels, such as a rare Art Deco Egyptian revival bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels from 1925, as well as other stylish and contemporary designer creations will complement the auction, which is estimated to realize in excess of HK$730 million (US$93.6 million).
Commenting on the holding of the auction, Jessica Wyndham, Head of Department, Jewelry, Sotheby’s Asia, said “We are so pleased to present such an exciting sale to the market – not only do we have some superb examples of jadeite, led by “The Circle of Heaven” and colored stones with our 24.70 carat unheated Burmese ruby, but also a wonderful selection of contemporary and vintage signed jewels. This sale is a standing testament to Sotheby’s strong position in the global jewelry market.”
Deputy Chairman, Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman International Jewelry, Sotheby’s Asia, Chin Yeow Quek, in his comments, said, “This season, Sotheby’s continues to bring the most fabulous jewels to Hong Kong for our most discerning jewelry connoisseurs and collectors, with an expansive offering across categories of diamonds, gemstones and jadeite. Prepare to be dazzled!”
JADEITE LOTS
Top highlight of the sale is Lot 1771, the property of an important Asian collector, titled HIGHLY IMPORTANT AND SUPERB JADEITE BANGLE, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 80,000,000 – 100,000,000 equivalent to USD 10,227,200 – 12,784,000. The jadeite bangle christened the “Circle of Heaven” is highly translucent with a fine texture and a uniform brilliant emerald green color and has an inner circumference of approximately 56.86 mm and a thickness of approximately 11.62 mm.
Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate, numbered KJ97608, dated 2 February 2018, accompanying the Lot, states that the jadeite bangle is natural, known in the trade as “A Jade.” The Jadeite bangle is of very high translucency and brilliant emerald green color, evenly distributed throughout the bangle. Very minor clouds commonly seen in jadeite, are only visible under strong illumination, and not visible under normal lighting. The bangle is in overall excellent condition.
Other significant Jadeite lots include Lots 1770 and 1769
Lot 1770 – EXCEPTIONAL JADEITE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 18,000,000 – 28,000,000 (USD 2,301,120 – 3,579,520) is the second most valued jadeite lot of the sale. The size 5½, 18k white gold cluster ring has as its centerpiece an oval jadeite cabochon, bright emerald green in color with very good translucency, highlighted by a marquise-cut and pear-shaped diamond surround. Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate numbered KJ 97535, dated 23 January 2018, states that the jadeite is natural, known in trade as “A Jade.” The ring is stamped C.T.F, J5076, and 750 for 18 karat white gold and D617 referring to the diamond weight for 6.17 carats in total.
The jadeite cabochon with dimensions of approximately 25.69 x 19.68 x 9.61 mm has a fine texture, with even bright emerald green color and very good translucency. Under strong illumination, there are some minor clouds commonly seen in natural jadeite and a few fine hairline scratches on the surface, but all are not noticeable under normal lighting. Average color grade of diamonds E to F color and clarity grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
LOT 1769 – AN IMPORTANT PAIR OF JADEITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS – with an estimate of HKD 15,000,000 – 25,000,000 (USD 1,917,600 – 3,196,000) is the third most valued jadeite lot of the sale. Each of the pair of earrings is set with an oval jadeite cabochon of brilliant emerald green color and very good translucency, as centerpiece highlighted by a marquise and pear-shaped diamond surround, mounted on 18 karat white gold, with post and hinged back fittings.
Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificates numbered KJ 97532 and KJ 97533, and both dated 23 January 2018, state that both the jadeites are natural, known in trade as “A Jade.” The earrings are stamped C.T.F and J4902, and 750 for 18 karat white gold and D916 referring to the diamond weight for 9.16 carats in total. The jadeite cabochons with of dimensions of approximately 22.47 x 16.62 x 5.97 mm and 21.60 x 16.20 x 6.86 mm, have a fine texture, with brilliant emerald green color and very good translucency. Upon strong illumination, there are some minor clouds commonly seen in natural jadeite, a few fair hairline scratches to the surface, but all are not visible under normal lighting. Average color grade of diamonds F to H color, clarity grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
RUBY LOTS
Top among the Ruby Lots and the second highlight of the entire sale is LOT 1779, titled AN IMPORTANT AND SPECTACULAR RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 82,000,000 – 92,000,000 (USD 10,482,880 – 11,761,28). The size 7, white and pink gold cluster ring is set with a cushion-shaped natural Burma ruby weighing 24.70 carats as centerpiece highlighted by a pear-shaped colorless diamond surround, the shoulder and upper shank of the ring pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds of pink tint.
Three lab reports by SSEF, GGL and AGL bearing numbers 80220, 1003549 and 8087505 respectively and dated June 11, 2015, March 12, 2010 and February 26, 2018, each state that the ruby is of Burma origin, with no indications of heating. SSEF also states that the color of this ruby may also be called “Pigeon blood red” in the trade. Additional reports by Lotus Gold, GRS and C. Dunaigre numbered respectively P-10093, GRS2010-031254 and CDC 1002264 dated September 1, 2014, April 21, 2010 and March 14, 2010 state that the ruby is natural of Burmese origin, with no enhancement/heating with a red color sometimes referred as “Pigeon blood” in the trade. The Ruby is medium dark red of strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching and minor blemishes when examined under 10x magnification, but hardly noticeable with unaided eye.
Sixteen GIA reports in respect of colorless diamonds weighing 1.73 cts, 1.70 cts, 1.60 cts, 1.57 cts, 1.56 cts, 1.52 cts, 1.52 cts, 1.51 cts, 1.25 cts, 1.21 cts, 1.20 cts, 1.13 cts, 1.12 cts, 1.09 cts, 1.09 cts, 1.07 cts state that the pear-shaped diamonds are all D-color, Type IIa, Flawless/Internally Flawless, with Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Four GIA dossiers in respect of diamonds weighing 0.34 ct, 0.31 ct, 0.30 ct and 0.30 ct state that the diamonds are D-color, Internally Flawless/VVS1 Clarity.
Metal tested as white and pink gold. The inner shank of the ring inscribed R24.70, PD4.38, D16-21.87, and D8-2.48 referring respectively to the weight/total weight of ruby, diamonds of pink tint, outer row of 16 colorless diamonds and inner row of 8 colorless diamonds. Diamonds of pink tint are faint pink, mostly VS clarity as graded in the mount. Metal in very good condition. Overall the ring is in excellent condition.
Other significant Ruby Lots include Lots 1763, and 1610.LOT 1763 – AN IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 21,500,000 – 28,000,000(USD 2,748,560 – 3,579,520) is the second most valued ruby lot of the sale. The size 6, 18 karat white gold ring has as its centerpiece a claw-set oval-cut ruby weighing 7.13 carats, highlighted by a colorless diamond surround consisting of triangular, marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds.
Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL bearing respectively numbers 97004 and 17061158 and dated December 21, 2017 and June 29, 2017, state that the ruby is of natural Burma origin, with no indications of heat enhancement, and based on their standards the color of the ruby may also be called “pigeon blood red” as sometimes referred to in the trade. The Ruby, is bright and lively, medium dark red of strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, cavities on pavilion, and minor blemishes under 10x magnification, but hardly noticeable with unaided eyes. The ring is inscribed 750 for 18 karat white gold. Estimated total weight of diamonds 5 to 6 carats, average color-grade E to F color and clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount. Metal as in new condition. Overall the ring is in excellent condition.
LOT 1610 – AN ATTRACTIVE RUBY AND DIAMOND DEMI-PARURE – with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 5,500,000 – 7,500,000 (USD 703,120 – 958,800) is another significant ruby lot of the sale. The demi-parure consists of a necklace and a pair of pendant earrings of matching design set with rubies and colorless diamonds. The 40 cm choker-length fringe necklace is set with oval, circular-cut and cushion-shaped rubies mounted on 18k yellow gold, spaced by a tetrad of diamonds mounted on platinum, consisting of a single upper brilliant-cut diamond, two pear-shaped diamonds with their outwardly directed pointed ends and a fringe made of a single pear-shaped diamond suspended from below.
Each of the pair of pendant earrings is set with an oval-shaped ruby as centerpiece with five brilliant-cut diamonds on the lower side, and a pear-shaped diamond suspended from each of the three lower brilliant-cut diamonds. The surmount has a tetrad of diamonds similar to the ones on the necklace, with a cushion-shaped ruby mounted at the top, with post and butterfly fittings.
SSEF report numbered 92888, dated 26 June 2017 and two Gübelin reports numbered 17067174 and 17067175/ 1 and 2, both dated 28 June 2017, state the rubies are of natural Burma origin, with no indications of heating. Estimated total weight of rubies approximately 62 – 65 carats. The rubies are medium dark red of intense saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, minor chips, nicks and abrasion visible only under 10x magnification but hardly noticeable with naked eyes. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 48 – 50 carats, average color-grade E – F color and clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount. The necklace is inscribed PT950 and 750 for platinum and 18 karat yellow gold.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
A colored diamond lot is the third most valued lot of the sale, assigned LOT NO 1776 and titled RARE AND IMPORTANT FANCY BLUE DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 46,200,000 – 60,000,000 (USD 5,906,208 – 7,670,400). The size 6, platinum and 18k pink gold ring is set with a cut-cornered rectangular step cut fancy blue diamond weighing 14.18 carats, highlighted by a surround of round brilliant-cut diamonds of pink tint, mounted on 18k pink gold and the shoulders and upper hoop of the ring mounted with round brilliant-cut diamonds.
LOT 1659 – AN IMPRESSIVE FANCY VIVID YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 19,000,000 – 25,000,000 (USD 2,428,960 – 3,196,000) is the second most valued colored diamond lot of the sale. The size 6½, platinum and 18 karat yellow gold ring is claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 30.16 carats, flanked by two shield-shaped diamonds on the shoulders of the ring and accented with pink, yellow and near-colorless diamonds on the upper shank of the ring.
GIA report numbered 1142327629 and dated 13 March 2012, states that the 30.16 carat diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color and VS1 Clarity. The ring is stamped PT950 for platinum, 750AU for 18 karat yellow and pink gold.
Estimated total weight of two shield-shaped diamonds approximately 2 carats, average color-grade F to G color, and clarity-grade SI, as gauged and graded in the mount Smaller diamonds of pink, yellow and colorless tints are estimated to weigh approximately 1 to 2cts and are bright and lively.
LOT 1782 is the third most valued colored diamond lot, titled, AN ATTRACTIVE FANCY VIVID PURPLISH PINK DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 16,000,000 – 20,000,000 (USD 2,045,440 – 2,556,800). The size 5¾ platinum ring is set with a cushion-shaped fancy vivid purplish pink diamond weighing 5.01 carats, flanked by shield-shaped diamond on the shoulders of the ring.
GIA report numbered 2185976808 and dated 2 January 2018, states that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink, Natural Color. The ring is stamped PT950 for platinum. The side diamonds are bright and lively.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Each of the pair of pendant earrings is set with a pear-shaped diamond weighing 13.01 and 12.97 carats respectively, suspended from a surmount set with a round brilliant-cut diamond weighing respectively 1.03 and 1.01 carats, mounted on 18 karat white gold with post and butterfly fittings.
Two GIA reports numbered 2185922283 and 5121863379 and dated respectively 23 February 2018 and 11 January 2018, in respect of pear-shaped diamonds weighing 13.01 carats and 12.97 carats, state that the diamonds are both D-Color, Internally Flawless, with excellent polish and symmetry.
Diamond type classification reports annexed to the main report state that the 13.01 carat diamond is determined to be a Type IIa diamond.Two GIA reports numbered 7276506324 and 2268574091, dated respectively 4 December 2017 and 22 August 2017, state that the 1.03 and 1.01 carat round brilliant-cut diamonds are both D- Color and Internally Flawless, with excellent cut, polish and symmetry.
Other significant colorless diamond lots include Lots 1781 and 1613.
LOT 1781 – AN IMPORTANT UNMOUNTED DIAMOND – with an estimate of HKD 17,200,000 – 22,000,000 (USD 2,198,848 – 2,812,480) is the second most valued colorless diamond lot of the tsale. The diamond weighing 17.63 carats is round brilliant-cut, D-color, Flawless with excellent cut, polish and symmetry.
GIA report numbered 2185649320, dated 13 November 2017, accompanying the diamond states that the diamond is D-Color, Flawless, with excellent cut, polish and symmetry. Diamond type classification report annexed to the main report states that the diamond is determined to be a Type IIa diamond.
LOT 1613 is another colorless diamond lot with an estimate of HKD 7,200,000 – 9,500,000 (USD 920,448 – 1,214,480) and titled a DIAMOND RING. The size 6¼ platinum ring is double claw-set with a cushion-shaped, D-Color, Internally Flawless diamond weighing 11.48 carats, with excellent cut, polish and symmetry, flanked by two tapered baguette-cut colorless diamonds.
GIA report numbered 2165060694, dated 11 January 2018, accompanying the lot states that the diamond is D-Color, Internally Flawless, with excellent polish and symmetry. Metal tested as platinum. Estimated total weight of tapered baguette-cut diamonds, which are bright and lively is approximately 0.50 cts.SAPPHIRE LOTS
Top among the sapphire lots is LOT 1773, titled AN IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, CARTIER, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 8,800,000 – 13,000,000 (USD 1,124,992 – 1,661,920). The Size 6 Kashmir Sapphire platinum ring signed Cartier, is double claw-set with a cushion-shaped Kashmir Sapphire weighing 10.18 carats flanked by two trilliant-cut colorless diamonds on the shoulders of the ring.
Two Lab reports by SSEF and AGL numbered 92401 and 1084335, dated 29 May 2017 and 17 May 2017 respectively, state that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heat treatment/enhancement. The ring inscribed Cartier, is made of platinum as tested. The Kashmir sapphire is medium blue with medium strong saturation, and almost loupe clean with very minor typical inclusions not visible to unaided eye. Estimated total weight of trilliant-cut diamonds approximately 1.10 cts, average color-grade F color, and clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount.
LOT 1627 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 4,700,000 – 6,200,000 (USD 600,848 – 792,608) is another significant sapphire lot of the sale. The Size 7¾ platinum ring is claw-set with a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing 8.05 carats, flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. The gallery of the ring is of openwork design.
Three Lab reports by AGL numbered 1089933 & dated 17 January 2018; SSEF numbered 88700 & dated 9 November 2016 and GGL numbered 16110097 & dated 28 November 2016, each states that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. SSEF further states that this sapphire may be called ‘royal blue’ based on their reference standard. The Sapphire is medium dark blue color of strong saturation, with typical natural inclusions and minor abrasions when viewed under 10x magnification.
Estimated total weight of trapeze-shaped diamonds approximately 0.80 to 1.00 carat; Average color-grade H to I color; Clarity-grade VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
PADPARADSCHA SAPPHIRE LOT
LOT 1623 – PADPARADSCHA SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – is a Ceylon Padparadscha sapphire lot with an estimate of HKD 3,250,000 – 4,500,000 (USD 415,480 – 575,280). The Size 6¾ white and yellow gold ring is set with an oval Ceylon/Sri Lanka Padparadscha Sapphire weighing 20.16 carats, flanked by two demi-lunar-shaped colorless diamonds.
SSEF Lab report numbered 81504, dated 14 August 2015, states that the padparadscha sapphire is natural of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heat enhancement. Further accompanied by an SSEF Folio. The padparadscha sapphire is mounted on 18k yellow gold and the diamonds on 18k white gold. The ring itself is made of 18k white gold. The Padparadscha is of light pinkish-orange color with medium light saturation, and loupe clean.
Estimated total weight of demi-lunar diamonds approximately 0.60-0.70 carats, average color-grade F to G color, and clarity-grade VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
EMERALD LOTS
Top highlight among emerald lots is LOT NO. 1777 – A FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, MONTURE CARTIER, with an estimate of HKD 8,700,000 – 11,000,000 (USD 1,112,208 – 1,406,240). The Size 7, platinum ring signed monture Cartier and stamped PT950 for platinum, is claw-set with a step-cut Colombian emerald weighing 14.72 carats, highlighted by a frame set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The shoulders and hoop of the ring are also set with round brilliant-cut diamonds.
Three Lab reports by SSEF, GGL and AGL bearing numbers 96163, 17100114 and 1087358 respectively and dated, 23 October 2017, 30 October 2017 and 5 October 2017 respectively, state that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement. The 14.72-carat emerald has a medium-dark slightly bluish-green color of strong saturation, with typical inclusions some surface reaching visible under 10x loupe but hardly noticeable to the naked eye.
Estimated total weight of round brilliant-cut diamonds approximately 9-11 cts, average color-grade F-G Color, average clarity-grade VS-Clarity as gauged and graded in the mount.
Other significant emerald lots are Lots 1609 and 1746.
LOT 1609 – A FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 4,300,000 – 5,500,000 (USD 549,712 – 703,120) is another significant emerald lot of the sale. The Size 5¾, platinum and 18k yellow gold ring, stamped PT950 and AU750 for platinum and 18k yellow gold, is double claw-set on yellow gold with a step-cut emerald weighing approximately 8.00 carats, highlighted by a pear-shaped diamond surround mounted on platinum, the hoop of the ring also made of platinum.
Two Lab reports by AGL and GGL numbered 1081885 and 18012060 respectively and both dated January 16, 2018 state that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement. The emerald estimated to weigh approximately 8.00 cts has a medium, slightly bluish-green color of strong saturation, with minor typical inclusions, some surface reaching, but only visible under 10x magnification.
Estimated total weight of pear-shaped diamonds approximately 7-8 cts, average color-grade E – F Color and clarity-grade VS-Clarity as gauged and graded in the mount.
LOT 1746 – A RARE MUGHAL CARVED EMERALD, 17TH CENTURY – is an antique piece from the Mughal period of India that lasted from 1526 to 1857 and reached its zenith during the 17th Century, in terms of cultural, arts, architecture, literary, social and economic advancement, becoming the world’s largest economic power. Emeralds became a suitable media for carving as they were available in large natural formations, supplied by the Spanish, who were exploiting the emerald mines of Columbia during that period. One of the most famous carved emeralds in the world, presently exhibited in the Museum of Islamic Art Doha is the Mughal Emerald, which bears the date 1107 AH (1695/1696 AD), falling during the reign of the last great Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, (1658-1707).
The Rare Mughal Carved Emerald coming up for auction on April 3, 2018, weighs 49.08 carats. The emerald is hexagonal shaped, the natural crystal habit of emeralds, and the front is carved with a lily in the center, flanked on each side by a poppy, the bevelled edge carved with a chevron design.
Two lab reports by GGL and SSEF numbered 17121021 and 83862, dated December 20, 2017 and January 25, 2016 respectively, states that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement. The Emerald is medium bluish green of strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface-reaching, small scratches, nicks and chips commonly seen in natural carved emeralds. Drill holes are found on the bottom and top of the emerald.
NATURAL PEARL LOTS
Top among the Natural Pearl Lots is LOT 1747 – AN IMPRESSIVE NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 5,500,000 – 8,000,000 (USD 703,120 – 1,022,720). The five strand necklace is composed of five rows of graduated natural pearls varying in diameter from 5.00 mm to 11.30 mm. Two open work geometric white gold plaques, placed symmetrically on either side of the necklace divides the necklace into a lower and upper half. The open work geometric plaques and the clasp behind are set with variously shaped diamonds. The length of the shortest row in the necklace is approximately 54.5 cm falling within the range of a matinee necklace. The geometric diamond plaques belong to the Art Deco period (1920s to 1930s)
Lab report by SSEF numbered 77853 and dated 23 March 2015, states that the three hundred and eighty-seven pearls in the necklace are all natural saltwater pearls. An appendix letter attached to the report states that assembling a matching selection of natural pearls of this size and quality is rare and exceptional. The shape of the pearls are near-roundish to oval. The body color of the pearls are white to light cream with rosé and green overtones. Being saltwater pearls the luster of the pearls are very good.
Estimated total weight of diamonds on the plaques approximately 14 – 16cts, Average color-grade H-I color, Average clarity-grade VS-SI clarity (a few are I-grade). Other significant pearl lots include Lots 1635 and 1772.
LOT 1635 – AN IMPORTANT NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of HKD 5,000,000 – 6,000,000 (USD 639,200 – 767,040) is the second highest valued pearl lot in the sale. The 61.5 cm matinee length necklace is composed of a single strand of sixty-nine graduated natural pearls varying in diameter from 6.05 mm to 12.65 mm. The platinum clasp behind is set with a marquise-shaped diamond and stamped PT950 for platinum.
Lab report by SSEF, numbered 98158 and dated 26 February 2018, states that the sixty-nine pearls in the necklace were found to be natural saltwater pearls. The pearls are round to near-round in shape, with white to cream body color and rosè, cream or green overtones and being saltwater pearls with very good to excellent luster, with minor natural surface blemishes and some with minor hairline cracks.
Estimated weight of marquise-shaped diamond approximately 3.00 carats; Color-grade H-I Color; and Clarity-Grade SI-clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
LOT 1772 – PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS – with an estimate of HKD 3,000,000 – 4,000,000 (USD 383,520 – 511,360) is another significant pearl lot. Each of the pair of pendant earrings, suspends a button-shaped natural pearl framed by pear-shaped, marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds mounted in platinum, from a surmount also set with a smaller button-shaped natural pearl, similarly framed by pear-shaped, marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, provided with post and hinged back fittings. The pendants are detachable from the surmount.
Lab report by SSEF states that the two pearls in the pendants are natural saltwater pearls, with dimensions of 14.31 – 14.63 x 9.40 mm and 14.28 – 14.41 x 9.91 mm, with a slightly creamy body color and rosé and green overtones.The other two pearls on the surmounts have dimensions of 9.00 – 9.05 x 8.30 mm and 8.80 – 9.05 x 7.50 mm, with a light cream body color and rosé overtone. All four pearls have good lustre with minor blemishes consistent with wear, generally not noticeable when worn. Total weight of diamonds approximately 13 – 18 cts, average color-grade F – G color and average clarity-grade VS-clarity. The pendants are detachable.
CONCH PEARL LOT
LOT 1582 – CONCH PEARL, SEED PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – is the only conch pearl lot in the sale, with an estimate of HKD 2,400,000 – 3,200,000 (USD 306,816 – 409,088. This beautiful Cartier triple-strand princess length necklace with its inner strand measuring 46.5 cm, is composed of one hundred and thirty-six graduated conch pearls, varying in diameter from 3.44 mm to 12.19 mm, spaced by two seed pearls and a faceted diamond bead in the center in the front of the necklace and by two seed pearls only towards the rear of the necklace. The clasp behind, signed Cartier London, has five rows collet-set with baguette-cut colorless diamonds on white gold and two brilliant-cut diamonds at the center. The shape of the Conch pearls are round, near-round and oval; having a range of colors such as white, medium light to medium intense pink, pinkish-orange, orange, orangy-brown and brown; Luster ranging from porcelain to good lustre, and a majority of the conch pearls having the characteristic flame pattern with minor surface blemishes, only visible under 10x magnification. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 1.8 – 2.2 cts and the diamonds are bright and lively. Seed pearls are round-shaped, white color, with very good luster.
ALEXANDRITE LOTS
One of the highlights of the Alexandrite lots is LOT 1590 – ALEXANDRITE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 1,200,000 – 1,600,000 (USD 153,408 – 204,544). The size 6½ platinum ring is claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut Ceylon Alexandrite weighing 12.16 carats, flanked by two half-moon shaped diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. The alexandrite has an excellent cut, polish and symmetry, displaying a distinct color change from a medium dark yellowish-green of moderate saturation in daylight to a brownish purple under incandescent light.
SSEF report bearing number 97606 and dated 22 January 2018, states that the alexandrite is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of any treatment. The report further states that the alexandrite has a distinct colour-change when exposed to different lighting conditions such as natural daylight and artificial incandescent light. AGL report bearing number 1089083 and dated 14 December 2017, states that the alexandrite is of Ceylon origin, with no clarity enhancement. The Alexandrite, with strong colour change property, displays a medium dark yellowish-green of moderate saturation in daylight and brownish purple under incandescent light. Some minor typical inclusions are only visible under 10x magnification. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 1.4 cts, average color-grade G – H Colour, clarity-grade VS, as graded in the mount.
AMETHYST LOTS
Top among the Amethyst Lots is LOT 1686 – AMETHYST AND TURQUOISE BROOCH, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 1971, with an estimate of HKD 180,000 – 240,000 (USD 23,011 – 30,682). The 18k yellow gold brooch designed as a butterfly and signed V.C & A. and numbered 41900.2.1. is bezel- set with two pairs of identical and fancy-shaped amethysts representing the wings of the butterfly and a single pear-shaped amethyst representing the abdomen and buff-top calibré-cut turquoises, representing the segments of the thorax.
The lot is accompanied by Van Cleef & Arpels letter of authenticity. Estimated total weight of Amethysts approximately 35 to 40 carats, with a medium purple color of medium saturation and typical color zoning not noticeable when worn.
Turquoise have a medium slightly greenish-blue uniform color, with minor matrix and well matched. The Brooch pin is detachable. Overall in very good condition. The pouch is stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.
CULTURED PEARLS
The most significant cultured pearl lot of the sale is LOT 1532 – CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE AND PAIR OF PENDENT EARRINGS – with an estimate of HKD 320,000 – 420,000 (USD 40,909 – 53,693). The single strand, 93 cm, opera-length necklace is composed of fifty-three saltwater cultured pearls, varying in diameter from 14.90 mm to 17.30 mm. The shape of the pearls are spherical, near-spherical,oval or button-shaped; the body color from white to slightly cream and a few with light rosé overtone, with excellent luster and surface quality, being saltwater cultured pearls; with minor surface blemishes. The clasp behind is a pavè-set diamond boule clasp stamped 750 for platinum and 18K for white gold.
Each of the pendant earrings suspends a spherical saltwater cultured pearl with diameter of 14.95 mm and 14.86 mm respectively, the linear surmount set with a single large round brilliant-cut diamond at the point of suspension and several smaller linear rows of brilliant-cut diamonds above that. Post and hinged back fittings; each mounted in 18 karat white gold. Stamped 18K for 18 karat white gold Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 1.00 to 1.20 carats, bright and lively; diamonds on earrings are about F to G colour, VS clarity as gauged and graded in the mounting.
STAR SAPPHIRE LOTS
A highlight among star sapphire lots is LOT 1699 – STAR SAPPHIRE, RUBY, EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDENT NECKLACE – with an estimate of HKD 700,000 – 950,000 (USD 89,488 – 121,448) The 43 cm pendant necklace has a two-strand neckchain composed of alternating units of three variously shaped emeralds, and an elongated 18k white gold unit set with small round brilliant-cut diamonds seperated by black onyx beads. The clasp behind is set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and a round cabochon sapphire bezel set at the center.
The pendant suspended from the two-strand neckchain is set with a cabochon Ceylon star sapphire weighing 114.63 carats, framed with black onyx and suspended from a similarly set cabochon Burma ruby weighing 12.16 carats. The reverse of the pendant is adorned with carved emeralds and cabochon sapphires.
SSEF lab report bearing No. 97944 and dated 19 February 2018, states that the 114.63-carat star sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating and that the 12.16 carat ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. A second lab report by GRS, numbered GRS2016-108539 and dated 18 October 2016, confirms that the 114.63-carat star sapphire is natural and of Sri Lankan origin, with no indications of heating. A subsidiary report by GRS numbered GRS2016-099280 and dated 21 September 2016, states that the 12.16-carat ruby is natural of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
The Star sapphire is highly translucent, of medium blue colour and moderate saturation, shows indistinct asterism under strong illumination, is almost eye clean with minor typical inclusions. Ruby is medium purplish-red of strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching
Estimated total weight of emeralds approximately 107.00 to 108.00 carats. Emeralds are medium green colour of moderate saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching. Sapphires estimated total weight approximately 8.00 carats to 9.00, of medium to dark blue colour, moderate saturation, with typical inclusions only visible through 10X magnification. Estimated toal weight of diamonds approximately 5.00 to 6.00 carats. Diamonds are bright and lively. Onyx in very good condition. Metal in very good condition. Overall in very good condition.
SIGNIFICANT SIGNED LOTS
LOT 1783 – RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL GEM SET AND DIAMOND BRACELET, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – with an estimate of HKD 6,600,000 – 8,500,000 (USD 843,744 – 1,086,640).
The 19 cm bracelet, signed Van Cleef Arpels, numbered 25174 and clasp stamped with French maker’s mark and assay mark for platinum, is designed as a band, pave-set with circular-cut diamonds, decorated with five quatrefoil motifs also set with circular-cut diamonds and terminating with pear-shaped rubies and margins decorated with black onyx, alternating with lotus motifs set with similarly cut emeralds and sapphires mounted in platinum.
The lot is accompanied by a Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity. Emeralds are medium-green of intense saturation. Sapphires are medium dark-blue of moderately strong saturation. Rubies of medium purplish-red to strong saturation. The onyx is in very good condition. All gemstones have natural inclusions and slight abrasions typical of polished gemstones of the period. Diamonds weighing approximately 23 to 28 carats in total are bright and lively. The clasp closes securely and is fitted with a safety closure.
LOT 1778 – RUBY, DIAMOND AND EMERALD BROOCH, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – is another significant signed lot by Van Cleef & Arpels, with an estimate of HKD 2,200,000 – 2,800,000 (USD 281,248 – 357,952). The Van Cleef & Arpels animal motif brooch, designed as a swan is pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and the feathers are embellished with calibré-cut, mystery-set rubies, the eye highlighted by a bezel set emerald, mounted in 18 karat yellow gold, the beak and tips of the wings also made of 18k yellow gold. The brooch is signed Van Cleef and Arpels, numbered N.Y. 56133. Stamped 18K for 18 karat yellow gold.
The diamonds are bright and lively and has an estimated total weight of approximately 6 carats. Rubies having an estimated total weight of 20 carats, are medium-dark purple-red, eye clean with minor typical inclusions, small pits and nicks when viewed under 10X magnification.
LOT 1714 – DIAMOND, SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND ONYX BROOCH, ‘PANTHÈRE’, CARTIER – with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 2,000,000 – 2,600,000 (USD 255,680 – 332,384) is a significant signed lot by Cartier.
The Caerier brooch is designed as a panther protecting an elongated shield-shaped yellow diamond. The body of the panther is pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and cabochon sapphires and accented by pear-shaped emerald eyes and a cabochon onyx nose, mounted in platinum and 18 karat white and yellow gold. The brooch signed Cartier and numbered 600688 carries French assay marks for platinum and 18 karat white and yellow gold and maker’s mark for Jacques Cartier.
Elongated shield-shaped diamond estimated to weigh approximately 3.00 to 4.00 carats is intense yellow colour, about VS clarity as gauged and graded in the mount. Sapphires estimated to weigh approximately 2.00 to 2.50 carats are medium-dark blue of moderate saturation, and loupe clean. Emeralds of medium-green and strong saturation have minor typical inclusions, some surface reaching. Brilliant-cut diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 2.50 to 3.00 carats are bright and lively.
