Historic Pink Diamond Leads Sotheby’s Geneva May 12, 2015 Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale

Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale coming up on May 12, 2015 promises to be an exciting and memorable event going by the impressive array of jewels and jewelry lined up for the auction, led by a historic and exceptional 8.72-carat, cushion brilliant-cut, VS2-clarity, fancy vivid pink diamond mounted on a ring (Lot 460), believed to have been in the collection of jewels owned by Princes Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon I, relative of King George III and the Tsar of Russia. Other jewels with noble provenance include several pieces from the collection of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe (lots 481-497), including three impressive tiaras.

Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon I  and wife of Anatole Demidov
Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon I and wife of Anatole Demidov

The auction featuring a total of 502 lots takes place in three sessions, the first session starting at 10.30 AM features lots 1 to 200; the second session starting at 2.00 PM features lots 201 to 401 and the third session starting at 7.00 PM features lots 402 to 502. The auction also features a private collection of four superb jewels by Cartier, including the 25.59-carat “Sunrise Ruby” ring and the 30.23-carat Kashmir sapphire brooch. Apart from historic and antique jewels, the auction also features an array of contemporary jewels incorporating rare colored and colorless diamonds, rare colored gemstones, natural pearls as well as signed jewels from reputed designers and jewelry houses such as Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari, Schlumberger and Belperron.

Lot 460 - The Historic Pink, Magnificent Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring
Lot 460 – The Historic Pink, Magnificent Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring

Top lot of the sale, Lot 460, titled “The Historic Pink – Magnificent Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring” is set with an 8.72-carat, cushion brilliant-cut, fancy vivid pink diamond as centerpiece, flanked by two cushion brilliant-cut, colorless diamonds, weighing 1.09 and 1.12 carats. A GIA report accompanying the lot certifies that the 8.72-carat central diamond is fancy vivid pink, natural color, VS2-clarity, Type IIa diamond and the two side diamonds are D-color, VVS1 and VVS2 clarity. According to the GIA monograph accompanying the lot, the Historic Pink Diamond first appeared at a June 1904 auction of Princess Mathilde Bonaparte’s jewels in Paris, where it was purchased by New York Fifth Avenue jeweler Dreicer & Co. The company mounted the rare diamond on a ring which was purchased by William Andrews Clark Sr. (1839-1925) the 19th-century American politician, industrialist and entrepreneur. The historic pink diamond ring was the centerpiece of the Clarke family jewelry collection, which was inherited by Huguette Marcelle Clark (1906-2011), heiress and philanthropist. The diamond was kept in a bank vault since the 1940s and surfaced only recently when it was offered at an auction in New York in 2012. The diamond that weighed 9.00 carats was slightly recut to the present weight of 8.72 carats that not only enhanced its color to fancy vivid pink but also improved its clarity from SI1 to VS2. A pre-sale estimate of US$14 million–$18 million is placed on this rare and historic fancy vivid pink diamond ring.

Lot 502 - Sunrise Ruby, Superb and Extremely Rare Ruby and Diamond Ring by  Cartier
Lot 502 – Sunrise Ruby, Superb and Extremely Rare Ruby and Diamond Ring by Cartier

The next highlight of the sale with a pre-sale estimate of US$12.1-18.1 million is Lot 502, one of the four superb jewels by Cartier from a private collection, the property of a Lady. The lot titled “The Sunrise Ruby, a Superb and Extremely Rare Ruby and Diamond Ring, by Cartier” incorporates a 25.59-carat, cushion-cut Burma ruby as its centerpiece, flanked by shield-shaped colorless diamonds weighing 2.47 carats and 2.70 carats. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL certify that the ruby is of Burma origin with natural “pigeon-blood color” and no indication of heat enhancement. Appendix letters accompanying the lab reports speak highly of the combination of outstanding characteristics possessed by the ruby, such as the homogeneous and richly saturated natural ‘pigeon blood red’ colour; the high clarity and brilliance and the shape and finely proportioned cut of the stone.

Lot 501 - Magnificent Diamond Necklace, Ivresse, Cartier
Lot 501 – Magnificent Diamond Necklace, Ivresse, Cartier

Lot 501 – A Magnificent Diamond Necklace, Ivresse, Cartier” is another jewel from the collection of four superb jewels by Cartier. A pre-sale estimate of US$6-10 million is placed on this necklace. The necklace is designed as a cascade of diamonds, composed of brilliant-cut, pear-cut and marquise-cut stones. The front of the necklace is accented with a floral motif, and the necklace suspends nine pear-shaped diamonds as fringes. The central large pear-shaped diamond fringe weighs 20.38 carats, and the matching pairs of fringes on either side of the central fringe weighs 12.04 and 10.25 carats; 7.34 and 6.52 carats; 3.21 and 3.42 carats; and 2.01 and 2.25 carats. Total weight of the diamonds in the necklace is 190.77 carats. Thirty GIA reports accompanying the lot certify that diamonds varying in size from 0.66 carats to 20.39 carats are all D-color and Internally Flawless, except for a 1.00 carat diamond which is E-color and Internally Flawless.

Lot 447 - A Superb Diamond Ring
Lot 447 – A Superb Diamond Ring

Lot 447 – A Superb Diamond Ring – with a pre-sale estimate of US$5-7 million is another highlight of the sale. The centerpiece of this ring is a 33.58 carat, cushion brilliant-cut, D-color, Flawless, Type IIa diamond, with excellent polish and symmetry. A GIA report accompanying the lot certifies that the 33.58-carat, cushion brilliant-cut diamond is D-color, Flawless with excellent polish and symmetry. An accompanying letter also certifies that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa.

Lot 499 - magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Brooch by Cartier
Lot 499 – magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Brooch by Cartier

Lot 499 – Magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, by Cartier – is another jewel from the collection of four superb jewels by Cartier, the property of a Lady. A pre-sale estimate of US$3.5-6.0 million is placed on this Cartier brooch. The centerpiece of this crescent-shaped brooch is a 30.23-carat, cushion-cut Kashmir blue sapphire, highlighted by pear and marquise-cut diamonds forming the crescent. The total weight of the diamonds is 42.35 carats. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL certify the Kashmir origin of the sapphire with no indications of heat enhancement. Twelve GIA reports certify the color and clarity of the diamonds, which are mostly D-color and internally flawless.

Lot 452 - An Impressive Diamond Ring
Lot 452 – An Impressive Diamond Ring

Some of the other colorless diamond highlights of the sale include lots 452, 446 and 442. Lot 452, titled “An Impressive Diamond Ring” is claw-set with a pear-shaped, D-color, VS1-clarity diamond weighing 31.93 carats. A GIA report accompanying the lot certifies that the diamond is D-color, VS1-clarity with excellent polish and symmetry, together with a letter classifying the diamond as Type IIa. A pre-sale estimate of US$3.5-3.9 million is placed on this diamond ring.

Lot 446 - A Very Fine Diamond Ring
Lot 446 – A Very Fine Diamond Ring

lot 446 – titled a “Very Fine Diamond Ring” is set with a 17.39-carat, round brilliant-cut, D-color, Internally Flawless, Type IIa diamond. A GIA report certifies that the diamond is D-color, Internally Flawless, with excellent cut, polish and symmetry and states that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms the diamonds D-color grading. A pre-sale estimate of US$2.5-2.9 million is placed on this lot.

Lot 442 - Pair of Fine Diamond Earrings
Lot 442 – Pair of Fine Diamond Earrings

Lot 442 is a “Pair of Fine Diamond Earrings” with a pre-sale estimate of US$2.3-2.8 million. Each of the earrings/ear-pendants suspends a cushion brilliant-cut diamond weighing respectively 10.02 and 10.03 carats, from a line pave-set with circular single-cut diamonds. Two GIA reports certify that the cushion-cut diamonds are D-color, Flawless, Type IIa, with excellent polish and symmetry.

Lot 425 - An Impressive Fancy Yellow Diamond Ring
Lot 425 – An Impressive Fancy Yellow Diamond Ring

Apart from the Historic Pink Diamond other colored diamond highlights of the sale include lots 425 and 480. Lot 425 is an “Impressive Fancy Yellow Diamond Ring” with a pre-sale estimate of US$1.6-2.2 million. The centerpiece of this ring is a cushion-cut, VS2-clarity, fancy yellow diamond weighing 53.17 carats, flanked by two triangular diamonds on the shoulders. A GIA report certifies that the diamond is fancy yellow, natural color and VS2-clarity.

Lot 480 - An Impressive Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Necklace
Lot 480 – An Impressive Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Necklace

 

Her Royal Highness Maharani Kamala Rajya Lakshmi
Her Royal Highness Maharani Kamala Rajya Lakshmi

Lot 480, the other colored diamond highlight of the sale is the propertty of Princess Rama Malla of Nepal. The lot titled “Impressive Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Necklace” has a pre-sale estimate of US$0.8-1.4 million placed on it. The 35 cm. necklace is designed as a graduated line of circular-cut yellow diamonds, the central fancy yellow diamond weighing 15.43 carats. The clasp and chain behind are accented with similarly cut colorless diamonds.This necklace originally formed part of a longer diamond rivière in the collection of Her Royal Highness Maharani Kamala Rajya Lakshmi, wife of His Royal Highness Maharaja Sir Padma Shumshere Jung Bahadur Rana of Nepal. Maharani Kamala Rajya Lakshmi, can be seen wearing the necklace in the portrait above. Princess Rama Malla inherited the necklace from her mother Maharani Kamala Rajya Lakshmi.

Lot 498 - Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace by Cartier
Lot 498 – Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace by Cartier

Natural pearl lots at the sale are led by Lot 498 – a Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, by Cartier, with a pre-sale estimate of US$3.0-5.0 million. The necklace from an European Private Collection is composed of two graduated strands of natural pearls varying in diameter from 7.45 mm – 13.95 mm. The clasp of the necklace is set with a central marquise-cut diamond weighing 4.39 carats, surrounded by a row of round brilliant-cut diamonds. An SSEF report accompanying the lot certifies that 78 pearls in the necklace are natural saltwater pearls. Four cultured pearls detected in the double strand necklace have been removed.

Lot 422 - A single-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace by Cartier
Lot 422 – A single-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace by Cartier

Lots 422 and 473 are two other natural pearl highlights of the sale. Lot 422 – is a single strand Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, also designed by Cartier. The 55 cm (22 inch) pearl necklace falling under the category of “matinee” is designed as a single graduated strand of 61 natural pearls, varying in diameter from 5.55 mm to 10.45 mm. The clasp of the necklace is collet-set with a marquise-cut diamond and signed Cartier. An SSEF report certifies that the 61 pearls are all natural saltwater pearls. A pre-sale estimate of US$400,000-600,000 is placed on this natural pearl necklace.

Lot 473 - Impressive Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace
Lot 473 – Impressive Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace

Lot 473 titled an “Impressive Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace” is from an European Princely Family. The 64 cm (25 inch) natural pearl necklace falling under the category of “matinee” is composed of a single strand of natural saltwater pearls, varying in diameter from 5.15 mm to 12.20 mm, alternating with seed pearls. The clasp of the necklace is collet-set with a circular-cut diamond. An SSEF report certifies that 44 pearls in the necklace are natural saltwater pearls and one pearl was found to be natural freshwater. Five cultured pearls detected in the necklace shown above have been removed and the single-strand necklace now consists of only 46 natural pearls. . A pre-sale estimate of US$300,000-600,000 is placed on this natural pearl necklace.

Lot 417 - Very Fine Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Lot 417 – Very Fine Sapphire and Diamond Ring

Apart from the “Sunrise Ruby” other colored gemstone highlights of the sale are lots 417, 434, 500, 445, 449, and 343. Lot 417, titled a “Very Fine Sapphire and Diamond Ring” is set with a 10.96-carat, cushion-cut Kashmir blue sapphire as centerpiece, flanked by two half-moon shaped diamonds on its shoulders. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL certify that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. A pre-sale estimate of US$1.1-1.6 million is placed on this lot.

Lot 434 - Important Sapphire and Diamond Ring by Bulgari
Lot 434 – Important Sapphire and Diamond Ring by Bulgari

Lot 434 from an important private collection is titled an “Important Sapphire and Diamond Ring, by Bulgari.” The centerpiece of the ring designed by Bulgari is a 32.94-carat, cushion-cut, Burma blue sapphire, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL certify the Burma origin of the sapphire with no indications of heat enhancement. A pre-sale estimate of US$800,000-1,400,000 is placed on this ring.

Lot 500 - Pair of Very Fine and Rare Sapphire and Diamond Ear Clips by  Cartier
Lot 500 – Pair of Very Fine and Rare Sapphire and Diamond Ear Clips by Cartier

Lot 500, is also one of the four superb jewels by Cartier, the property of a Lady, and titled “Pair of Very Fine and Rare Sapphire and Diamond Ear Clips, by Cartier,” with a pre-sale estimate of US$800,000-1,200,000. The design of the ear clips matches the design of the “Magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, by Cartier” (Lot 499) also from the same collection. Like the brooch, the ear clips are also crescent-shaped, each set with a step-cut Burma blue sapphire weighing 15.77 and 16.90 carats as centerpiece, with pear-cut and marquise-cut diamonds forming the crescent or semi-circle. Total weight of the diamonds in the semi-circle is 21.54 carats. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL certify that the two blue sapphires are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Fifteen GIA reports accompanying the lot also certify that the pear and marquise-cut diamonds are mostly D-E color and internally flawless clarity.

Lot 445 - Fine Sapphire Ring
Lot 445 – Fine Sapphire Ring

Lot 445 with a pre-sale estimate of US$800,000-1,400,000 is another colored gemstone lot from a private collection, titled a “Fine Sapphire Ring.” The only gemstone mounted on this ring is a cushion-cut, Kashmir blue sapphire weighing 13.26 carats. Two lab reports by SSEF and GGL certify the Kashmir origin of the sapphire with no indications of heating. In an appendix letter GGL also speaks of the richly saturated and homogeneous colour of the blue sapphire, combined with a high degree of transparency, and a finely proportioned cut, with an additionally qualifying statement that such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural Kashmir sapphires of this size.

Lot 449 - Emerald and Diamond Ring
Lot 449 – Emerald and Diamond Ring

Lot 449 is another colored gemstone lot incorporating a rare Colombian emerald. The lot from an important private collection is titled an “Emerald and Diamond Ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of US$400,000-500,000 placed on it. The centerpiece of the ring is a 19.17-carat, emerald-cut Colombian emerald, flanked by triangular-cut diamonds on its shoulders. An SSEF report certifies that the emerald is of Colombian origin with minor oil treatment.

Lot 449 - Emerald and Diamond Ring
Lot 449 – Emerald and Diamond Ring

Lot 343, is a rare “Alexandrite and Diamond Ring by Jeremie Pauzie,” with a pre-sale estimate of US$382,000-558,000. The ring is set with a cushion-cut, 23.75-carat, Ceylon alexandrite in a decorative mount. The mount, shoulders and hoop of the ring are set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. An SSEF report certifies that the alexandrite is of Ceylon origin with a strong color cchange and no indications of treatment.

Mary Duchess of Roxeburghe
Mary Duchess of Roxeburghe

Seventeen lots of jewelry (lots 481-497), from the collection of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe, including three impressive tiaras will also feature at the Geneva auction. These jewels have been entrusted to Sotheby’s for sale by the Duchess’ heir, her nephew Bamber Gascoigne, and the proceeds of the sale of the jewels and other personal effects of the Duchess from her 16th-century mansion, West Horsely Place, such as furniture, paintings, silver and other precious objects will go to a fund that will be used exclusively for the repair and restoration of West Horsely Place, in order to preserve the historic mansion for posterity, as a monument of its remarkable past. Highlights from the Estate of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe, include lots 487, 488, 489, 490, 491, 493, 496 and 497.

Lot 487 - Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Bracelets, 1930s, and six loose natural pearls
Lot 487 – Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Bracelets, 1930s, and six loose natural pearls

Lot 487 is titled a “Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Bracelets, 1930s, and six loose natural pearls.” Each bracelet is composed of six rows of natural pearls, varying in diameter between 3.50 mm to 4.00 mm, with a central geometric motif and clasps at either end, set with circular, single-cut, rose and baguette-cut diamonds. The lengths of the bracelets are 175 mm and 185 mm. Six loose natural pearls varying in diameter from 4.90 mm to 5.00 mm are also included in the lot. An SSEF report certifies that the 354 pearls in the bracelet are all natural, saltwater pearls. A pre-sale estimate of US$40,000 to 61,000 is placed on this pair of bracelets.

Lot 488 - Pair of Ruby and Diamond Earrings, Cartier, 1930s
Lot 488 – Pair of Ruby and Diamond Earrings, Cartier, 1930s

Lot 488 is a “Pair of Ruby and Diamond Earrings, Cartier, 1930s.” Each earring is designed as a cluster, set with three oval-cut rubies in the center, within a surround of marquise-cut, step-cut and triangular-cut diamonds. A pre-sale estimate of US$20,000 to 31,000 is placed on this pair of earrings.

Lot 489 - Natural Pearl, Ruby and Diamond Choker, early 20th-century and later
Lot 489 – Natural Pearl, Ruby and Diamond Choker, early 20th-century and later

Lot 489 is a “Natural Pearl, Ruby and Diamond Choker, early 20th-century and later.” The 14.7 inch choker is composed of four rows of natural pearls, varying in diameter from 4.40 mm to 5.30 mm. Two geometric plaques on either side of the choker, is set with circular-cut and baguette-cut diamonds. The clasp behind is designed as a floral motif decorated with a fancy-cut and circular-cut rubies and single-cut diamonds. An SSEF report certifies that the 244 pearls in the choker are all natural saltwater pearls and that the central ruby on the clasp is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. A pre-sale estimate of US$31,000-52,000 is placed on this choker.

Lot 490 - Ruby and Diamond Tiara, second half of the 19th-century
Lot 490 – Ruby and Diamond Tiara, second half of the 19th-century

Lot 490 is a “Ruby and Diamond Tiara, second half of the 19th-century.” with a pre-sale estimate of US$80,000-101,000. The tiara with an inner circumference of 290 mm is designed with perfect symmetry, with two inclining foliate sprays forming the arch of the tiara on either side, and one large vertical foliate spray and a smaller inclining foliate spray placed symmetrically on either side of the central foliate motif of the tiara. The foliate sprays are set with circular-cut, cushion-cut and rose-cut colorless diamonds. Rows of circular-cut rubies connecting the foliate sprays on either side of the tiara, forms the lower arch of the tiara. The central foliate motif of the tiara is accentuated by a central large cushion-cut ruby and oval-cut ruby situated above it, along the median line of the tiara, which terminates in a large circular-cut colorless diamond. A row of five circular-cut rubies arising from the vertical foliate spray and slanting towards the smaller foliate spray above, is situated on either side of the central foliate motif.

Lot 491 - Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, second-half of the 19th-century
Lot 491 – Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, second-half of the 19th-century

Lot 491 is a “Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, Second Half of the 19th-Century” with a pre-sale estimate US$61,000-82,000. The 190 mm bracelet is composed of a central rosette between tapered foliate shoulders, set throughout with cushion-shaped rubies and diamonds. The central rosette is detachable and can be worn as a brooch or pendant. The reverse of the central motif bears the inscription – “in memoriam, my beloved grandmother Sara Cohen, died 12th Feb. 1879”.

Lot 493 - Diamond Tiara/Necklace, Last Quarter of the 19th-century
Lot 493 – Diamond Tiara/Necklace, Last Quarter of the 19th-century

Lot 493 is a “Diamond Tiara/Necklace, Last Quarter of the 19th-Century” with a pre-sale estimate of US$300,000-500,000. The tiara is composed of fleurs de lys and confronting scroll motifs, swing-set with a graduated row of twenty pear-shaped diamonds, on a band composed of lozenge and trefoil motifs, set throughout with cushion-cut and rose-cut diamonds. The tiara can be detached to form a necklace and bandeau.

Lot 496 - Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, circa 1920
Lot 496 – Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, circa 1920

Lot 496, titled “Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, circa 1920” was designed by Cartier and has a pre-sale estimate of US$250,000-350,000 placed on it. The 36 cm necklace composed of millegrain-set alternating marquise-cut and circular-cut diamonds, is set in the front with garland and ribbon designs supporting seven oval and button shaped natural pearls. The pearls vary in dimensions betwen 11.40 x 11.50 x 9.90 mm to 15.10 x 15.15 x 13.70 mm. The case stamped Cartier, the exterior of the case with monogram and coronet for Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe.

Lot 497 - Diamond Tiara, Cartier, 1930s
Lot 497 – Diamond Tiara, Cartier, 1930s

Lot 497 is the last lot from from the estate of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe, and is a Tiara designed by Cartier in the 1930s. The lot titled “Diamond Tiara, Cartier, 1930s” has a pre-sale estimate of US$300,000-500,000 placed on it. The tiara depicting the geometric design characteristic of the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s, is set throughout with circular-cut diamonds, surmounted by a graduated series of thirty-one collet-set diamonds. The inner circumference of the tiara is 415 mm and signed Cartier. The fitted case stamped Cartier and the exterior of the case shows the monogram and coronet for Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe.

One thought on “Historic Pink Diamond Leads Sotheby’s Geneva May 12, 2015 Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale

  1. Avatar
    Robert says:

    Hello Mr. Samad,

    My group is looking to purchase the 33.58 carat D Flawless Type llA diamond you have posted on your article. We will be loading funds today in Malca. If you can assist with this purchase immediately it would be greatly appreciated as we are looking to purchase 5 more of it’s or larger sizes as well. Please advise.

    Regards,

    Robert

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