HIGHLIGHTS OF SOTHEBY’S MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS GENEVA SALE 15TH NOVEMBER 2018.

Sotheby’s Geneva is due to hold its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale on November 15, 2018, at their Sales Center situated at 2, Rue François-Diday, Geneva 1204, Switzerland, soon after the sale of the most significant noble jewelry collection ever to come up for auction, christened “Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family”, to be held on 14th November 2018, at the same venue. A total of 570 lots will be on offer at this auction to be held in three sessions, the first session starting at 10.30 AM offering Lots 101 to 304; the second session starting at 2.30 PM offering Lots 305 to 514 and the third session starting at 7.00 PM offering Lots 515 to 570. Prior to the auction the Lots on offer will be on view from November 10 to 14, 2018, at Mandarin Oriental, Geneva, 1 Quai Turrettini, 1201 Genève, Switzerland, viewing times being 10.00 AM to 6.00 PM CET on all days from November 10 to 14, 2018.

The Lots offered range in value from as low as CHF 2,000 (USD 2028) to as high as CHF 11,920, 000 (USD 12,085,569) and includes an array of jewels such as bracelets & bangle bracelets, brooches, earclips & earrings, necklaces, pendants, parures and demi-parures, rings and wristwatches, set with colored and colorless diamonds, colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, aquamarine, citrine, lapis lazuli, onyx, pink sapphire, turquoise and yellow sapphire and organic gemstones such as natural and cultured pearls, corals, mother-of-pearl and seed pearls, the metals used being gold, platinum and silver.

The auction features jewels by renowned jewelry houses and designers such as Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, David Webb, Graff, Harry Winston, Michele della Valle, Oscar Heyman & Bros., Sterle and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Colored and Colorless Diamond lots are among the top highlights of the sale with four Colored Diamond lots, five Colorless Diamond lots and one Sapphire lot among the top ten highlights of the sale, based on estimates.

 

COLORED DIAMOND LOTS

 

LOT 566 - RARE FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND RING
LOT 566 – RARE FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND RING

Top among Colored Diamond Lots and the top highlight of the sale is LOT 566 – RARE FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 8,930,000 – 11,920,000 (USD 9,054,038 – 12,085,569). Ring size 52, platinum ring, stamped Pt 950 for platinum, is claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular mixed cut, SI-1 clarity, fancy vivid blue diamond weighing 5.04 carats.

 

LOT 566 - ANOTHER VIEW OF THE RARE FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND RING
LOT 566 – ANOTHER VIEW OF THE RARE FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND RING

 

GIA report no. 1142945155, dated 15 May 2013, states that the cut-cornered rectangular mixed-cut diamond, weighing 5.04 carats, with dimensions of 10.00 x 9.37 x 6.17 mm, is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Color, SI1 Clarity. Scratches to the metal consistent with light use. In very good condition. Gross weight approximately 4 grams.

 

 LOT 570 - RARE PAIR OF FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS
LOT 570 – RARE PAIR OF FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS

 

The second most valued lot of the sale and the second highlight among colored diamonds is LOT 570 – RARE PAIR OF FANCY VIVID BLUE DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS – with an estimate of CHF 7,940,000 – 9,920,000 (USD 8,050,287 – 10,057,789). Each of the pair of pendant earrings stamped, PT950 for platinum, with a five-sided pyramidal-shaped framework set with old brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, suspended by a linear surmount, also set with baguette-cut diamonds, with a circular brilliant-cut diamond at the top, provided with post and butterfly fittings, suspends a pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond weighing respectively 2.61 and 3.06 carats, inside the diamond framework, from the pointed end of the pyramid.

GIA report nos. 11890077 and 11993126, each states that the diamonds weighing 2.61 and 3.06 carats, with dimensions of 10.16 x 7.01 x 5.15 mm and 10.11 x 7.07 x 5.79 mm respectively are Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Color and VS-2 Clarity. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 3.00 – 3.30 carats, with average color-grade of G-H color and clarity-grade VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Minor scratches to the metal, consistent with normal wear, but otherwise in excellent condition. Total gross weight approximately 10 grams.

 

LOT 567 - SUPERB FANCY LIGHT PINK DIAMOND RING
LOT 567 – SUPERB FANCY LIGHT PINK DIAMOND RING

Another significant Colored Diamond Lot, the 4th most valued lot and the 3rd most valued Colored Diamond Lot of the sale, is LOT 567 – SUPERB FANCY LIGHT PINK DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 4,470,000 – 6,450,000 (USD 4,532,088 – 6,539,591). Ring Size 51 1/2, 18k yellow gold ring with Swiss maker’s mark and stamped 750 for 18k gold, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped, fancy light pink, natural color, VVS-2 clarity diamond weighing 21.19 carats,

GIA report no. 1152036418, dated 3 October 2012, states that the cushion-shaped diamond weighing 21.19 carats, with dimensions of 19.24 x 17.52 x 8.44 mm, is Fancy Light Pink, Natural Color, and VVS-2 Clarity. Diamond Type Classification letter annexed to the report states that the pink diamond is a Type IIa diamond, to which most colored diamonds belong. Very minor signs of wear to the metal, but otherwise in excellent condition. Gross weight of ring approximately 7 grams.

 

COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS

Significant Colorless Diamond Lots include Lots 569, 563 and 565.

 

LOT 569 - MAGNIFICENT DIAMOND NECKLACE, HARRY WINSTON
LOT 569 – MAGNIFICENT DIAMOND NECKLACE, HARRY WINSTON

LOT 569 – MAGNIFICENT DIAMOND NECKLACE, HARRY WINSTON – with an estimate of CHF 4,770,000 – 5,760,000 (USD 4,836,255 – 5,840,006), is the top Colorless Diamond Lot and the third most valuable lot of the sale. The 40.5 cm (15.9 ins) choker length fringe necklace, signed Winston and stamped Pt950 for platinum, suspends two types of fringes from the front lower half of the necklace, longer and shorter fringes alternating with one another. Each longer fringe is made of three basal triad of smaller pear-shaped diamonds terminating in a large pear-shaped diamond. A short fringe is made of a single basal circular-cut diamond terminating in a single small pear-shaped diamond. There are nine longer fringes in the front lower half of the necklace, a median long fringe and four graduating longer fringes on either side of it. The fringes arise from an inner single row of diamonds, made of alternating pairs of pear-shaped diamonds and a single circular-cut diamond. The longer fringes originate between a pair of pear-shaped diamonds in the inner row and the shorter fringes originate from the alternating circular-cut diamond in the inner row. The terminating nine pear-shaped diamonds of the longer fringes range in weight from 2.04 carats to 14.93 carats. The lot is stamped with additional maker’s mark for Jacques Timey for Harry Winston.

The Lot is accompanied by nine GIA reports. The weight of the pear-shaped diamonds in descending order are 14.93 cts, 13.62 cts, 13.10 cts, 6.43 cts, 6.21 cts, 5.04 cts, 4.06 cts, 2.08 cts and 2.04 cts. All diamonds are D-Color and Internally Flawless Clarity and Type IIa, according to Diamond Classification Letters accompanying the reports.

Estimated total weight of remaining diamonds approximately 100.00 – 110.00 carats; average color-grade E-F color and average clarity-grade VVS-VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Minor scratches to the metal consistent with normal use. Clasps are secure with a safety catch. Total gross weight approximately 140 grams.

 

LOT 563 - VERY FINE DIAMOND RING, PEDERZANI
LOT 563 – VERY FINE DIAMOND RING, PEDERZANI

 

The second highlight among Colorless Diamond Lots and the 5th most valued lot of the sale is LOT 563 – VERY FINE DIAMOND RING, PEDERZANI – the property of a distinguished family, with an estimate of CHF 2,980,000 – 3,970,000 (USD 3,021,392 – 4,025,143). Ring Size 51, platinum ring, signed PEDERZANI, and stamped Pt900 for platinum, is double claw-set with a cut-cornered square step-cut/emerald-cut, D-Color, VVS-1 Clarity diamond weighing 25.77 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring.

GIA report no. 5192600720, states that the step-cut diamond, weighing 25.77 carats, with dimensions of 20.94 x 16.94 x 9.02 mm, is D-Color and VVS-1 Clarity. A working diagram annexed to the report states that the diamond may be internally flawless after minor re-polishing. Diamond Type Classification Letter accompanying the report states that the diamond is Type IIa. The remaining diamonds are bright and lively. Scratches to the metal are consistent with light use, but otherwise in very good condition. Gross weight approximately 13 grams. The Case is stamped PEDERZANI.

 

LOT 565 - IMPORTANT DIAMOND PENDANT
LOT 565 – IMPORTANT DIAMOND PENDANT

 

LOT 565 – IMPORTANT DIAMOND PENDANT – with an estimate of CHF 2,480,000 – 3,480,000 (USD 2,514,447 – 3,528,337) is the 3rd most valued Colorless Diamond Lot of the sale and overall the 7th most valued lot of the sale. The 18k white gold pendant, stamped 750 for 18k white gold, is claw-set with a pear-shaped, D-Color, VS-1 Clarity diamond weighing 40.18 carats.

GIA report no. 2191600734, states that the pear-shaped diamond weighing 40.18 carats, with dimensions of 29.00 x 20.13 x 10.90 mm, is D-Color and VS1 Clarity. Condition of the pendant is as new, with no evidence of wear to the metal.Total gross weight approximately 10 grams.

 

EMERALD LOTS

Among some of the Emerald highlights are Lots 425, 417 and 541.

 

LOT 425 - EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS
LOT 425 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS

 

Top among the Emerald Lots is LOT 425 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS – with an estimate of CHF 600,000 – 800,000 (USD 608,334 – 811,112). Ring Size 53, Iridium-Platinum ring, with maker’s mark for Oscar Heyman & Brothers, numbered 302847, inscribed IRID PLAT and Pt 900 for platinum and 750 for 18k gold, is claw-set with an octagonal step-cut/emerald-cut emerald weighing 45.94 carats, flanked by triangular-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring, weighing 1.54 and 1.52 carats respectively, and further highlighted by baguette-cut diamonds on the borders of the gallery of the ring.

Gübelin report no. 17042019, GRS report no. GRS2017 – 058746, and AGL report no. 1090729, each states that the step-cut emerald, weighing 45.94 carats, with dimensions of 22.90 x 22.29 x 13.38 mm, is of Colombian origin, with minor clarity enhancement.

GIA reports no. 7183281100 and no. 3185281077, state that the triangular diamonds, weighing 1.54 and 1.52 carats, measuring 8.47 x 9.24 x 3.44 mm and 8.43 x 9.19 x 3.33 mm, are H and G Color and VS2 Clarity respectively.

The Emerald is green of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching close to the prongs with very minor abrasions. The remaining diamonds are bright and lively. Minor evidence of wear to the metal, but otherwise In very good condition. Gross weight approximately 34 grams. The lot is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Oscar Heyman & Brothers.

 

LOT 417 - EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING
LOT 417 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING

 

LOT 417 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 450,000 – 650,000 (USD 456,251 – 659,029) is another Emerald Lot of the sale. Ring Size 53 1/2, platinum and 18k gold ring, stamped Pt 950 for platinum and 750 for 18k gold, is double claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut emerald weighing 18.90 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring.

SSEF report no. 79645, states that the step-cut emerald, weighing 18.90 carats, with dimensions of 16.70 x 16.10 x 10.40 mm, is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures. The emerald is of rich green color, of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching with a few nicks and chips around girdle and some abrasions to facet edges. The diamonds are bright and lively. Scratches to the metal are consistent with light use. Gross weight approximately 13 grams.

 

LOT 541 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE, TABBAH, CIRCA 1985 – with an estimate of CHF 330,000 – 500,000 (USD 334,584 – 506,945) is another Emerald highlight of the sale. The emerald and diamond parure consists of a choker necklace, a bracelet, a pair of ear-clips and a ring.

 

LOT 541 -CHOKER OF THE EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 541 -CHOKER OF THE EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE

The Choker of length 31.5 cm (12.4 ins) is claw-set with a pear-shaped emerald weighing 25.50 carats as centerpiece, highlighted by an inner row of round brilliant-cut diamonds and an outer row of pear-shaped diamonds, and the remaining parts of the choker set with two rows of round brilliant-cut diamonds on each of the outer sides with a single row of pear-shaped and round brilliant-cut diamonds in the center.

 

LOT 541 - BRACELET OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 541 – BRACELET OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE

The bracelet of length 17 cm is also claw-set with a pear-shaped emerald as centerpiece, weighing 6.31 carats, highlighted by a single row of round brilliant-cut diamonds, with a group of eight pear-shaped diamonds placed on either side, and the remaining parts of the bracelet on either side set with two rows of round brilliant-cut diamonds on each of the outer sides with an open space in-between.

 

LOT 541 - PAIR OF EARCLIPS OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 541 – PAIR OF EARCLIPS OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE

Each of the pair of ear clips of matching design with the choker and bracelet, is set with a pear-shaped emerald as centerpiece, surrounded on two sides by a row of round brilliant-cut diamonds and a row of pear-shaped diamonds outer to the row of round brilliant-cut diamonds on one side. Total weight of the two emeralds is approximately 10.77 carats.

LOT 541 - RING OF THE EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 541 – RING OF THE EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE

Ring Size 51 1/2, yellow gold ring signed Tabbah is claw-set with a pear-shaped emerald weighing 10.17 carats, highlighted by a single row of round brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds.

Gübelin report no. 18080136, report no. 18080135, report no. 18080133/1 and 2 and report no. 18080134, each stats that the pear-shaped emeralds measuring approximately 29.50 x 17.20 x 8.60 mm, 16.20 x 10.55 x 6.00 mm, 16.25 x 10.50 x 5.70 mm, 15.71 x 10.30 x 6.10 mm and 22.90 x 12.55 x 5.70 mm respectively, are of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement. Each of the pieces with maker’s mark for Chanson, 39 rue des Petits-Champs, 752002 Paris. Emeralds well matched in color, green of medium to strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some visible to the naked eye, some surface reaching. The brilliant-cut diamonds stated to weigh a total of 129.63 carats, and pear-shaped diamonds stated to weigh a total of 52.87 carats, on average F color, VVS clarity. Scratches to the metal consistent with light use. In very good condition. Accompanied by a fitted case.

 

RUBY LOTS

Among the top Ruby highlights of the sale are Lots 529, 543 and 514

 

LOT 529 - RUBY AND DIAMOND RING
LOT 529 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING

 

Top Ruby Lot of the sale is LOT 529 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 1,100,000 – 2,090,000 (USD 1,115,279 – 2,119,030). Ring Size 49 1/2, 18k yellow gold ring, signed Cartier with French assay mark for 18k gold, inscribed 8.16, the weight of the ruby, is set with an oval ruby weighing 8.16 carats, flanked by tapered baguette diamonds on the shoulders of the ring.

SSEF report no. 102182, and Gübelin report no. 8802044, dated 22. February 1988, state that the oval ruby, weighing 8.16 carats, with dimensions of 13.09 x 9.18 x 7.05 mm, is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. SSEF report further states that the color of the ruby is what is known as pigeon-blood-red color in the trade. The Ruby has an attractive red color of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, and nicks especially to the girdle and facet junctions, some polished cavities on girdle and pavilion. The diamonds are bright and lively. Minor evidence of wear to the metal, but otherwise In very good condition. Gross weight approximately 6 grams.

 

LOT 543 - RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
LOT 543 – RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

 

LOT 543 – RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of CHF 600,000 – 800,000 (USD 608,334 – 811,112) is a breathtaking ruby and diamond necklace, with an inner circumference of 35 cm (13.8 ins) equivalent to a Choker length necklace. The necklace has a triple-row lower half and a single-row rear half, made of alternating ruby-centered diamond rosettes and large round brilliant-cut diamonds, claw-set on yellow gold. Each rosette is claw-set with an oval-cut or circular-cut ruby, surrounded by eight smaller claw-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. Out of the three rows in the lower half, the outer and inner rows have nine rosettes each and the middle row only eight rosettes. The rear-half of the necklace made up of only a single row has nine rosettes alternating with a large round brilliant-cut diamond. The necklace is stamped OR 750 for 18k gold and inscribed R 85.10 for total stated carat weight of rubies and B 61.67 for total stated carat weight of diamonds.

SSEF report no. 69647, states that thirty-four rubies are of Burmese origin and one ruby of Vietnamese origin, with no indications of heating, The dimensions of the rubies vary from approximately 6.70 x 6.50 x 3.95 mm to 10.35 x 7.90 x 4.70 mm,and are stated to weigh from approximately 1.30 to 3.50 carats. The Rubies are well matched in color; red of medium strong saturation with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, with minor abrasions. Diamonds on average G-I color, VS clarity, as graded within the limitations of the mount. Minor evidence of normal wear to the metal, but in very good condition. Gross weight of necklace approximately 139 grams.

LOT 514 - RARE AND IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, CIRCA 1940
LOT 514 – RARE AND IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, CIRCA 1940

 

Another significant Ruby Lot of the sale is LOT 514 – RARE AND IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, CIRCA 1940 – with an estimate of CHF 400,000 – 600,000 (USD 405,556 – 608,334). The brooch of floral design, signed Cartier London has a central stigma set with a circular-cut ruby weighing 7.34 carats, within a frame of cushion-shaped rubies, surrounded by petals and sepals set throughout with circular-cut diamonds.

SSEF report no. 102188 and Gübelin report no. 18090063, state that the circular-cut ruby weighing 7.34 carats, with dimensions of 12.80 x 13.18 x 4.69 mm, is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The SSEF report also states that the remaining rubies measuring from approximately 7.90 x 6.10 x 3.20 to approximately 5.30 x 4.05 x 2.50 mm, and weighing from approximately 0.5 to 1.4 carats, are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The Rubies are well matched in color; red of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, some abrasions, nicks and chips. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 20.00 – 25.00 carats; average color-grade I-J color; clarity-grade SI-I clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount, one small diamond deficient. Scratches to the metal consistent with age and light use, signs of soldering to the reverse. Clasp secure. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 78 grams. Fitted case stamped Cartier, case with scratches and some damages.

 

SAPPHIRE LOTS

Top Sapphire Lots of the sale are Lots 568, 561 and 402.

 

LOT 568 - EXCEPTIONAL SAPPHIRE RING, CARTIER
LOT 568 – EXCEPTIONAL SAPPHIRE RING, CARTIER

Top among Sapphire Lots and overall the 7th most valued lot of the sale is LOT 568 – EXCEPTIONAL SAPPHIRE RING, CARTIER – with an estimate of CHF 2,980,000 – 4,960,000 (USD 3,021,392 – 5,028,894). Ring Size 54, platinum ring, signed Cartier, numbered QU1602, inscribed 54 referring to the size of the ring, with French maker’s mark and French and Russian assay marks, stamped PT950 for platinum, is claw-set with a superb oval Burma sapphire weighing 69.99 carats.

SSEF report no. 102955 and Gübelin report no. 11100120, state that the oval sapphire weighing 69.99 carats, with dimensions of 24.43 x 22.30 x 14.41 mm, is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating and a “royal blue” color. The Lot is also accompanied by a Cartier certificate of authenticity. The Sapphire is blue of medium strong saturation, clean to the naked eye, minor inclusions and abrasions around the culet visible under 10x magnification. The lot is In excellent condition. Gross weight approximately 28 grams.

 

LOT 561 - ATTRACTIVE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
LOT 561 – ATTRACTIVE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING

 

LOT 561 – ATTRACTIVE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 1,200,000 – 1,790,000 (USD 1,216,668 – 1,814,863) is another significant Sapphire Lot of the sale. Ring Size 51, platinum ring, stamped PT950 for platinum, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing 12.43 carats, highlighted by a double frame of marquise-shaped diamonds.

SSEF report no. 85317, states that the sapphire weighing 12.43 carats, with dimensions of 13.90 x 11.35 x 8.20 mm, is of Kashmir origin with no indications of heating. The lot is also accompanied by a Gübelin report. The Sapphire is blue of medium strong saturation, an overall clean stone with some typical inclusions. The SSEF appendix letter states that “the Sapphire has a few tiny typical inclusions found by microscopic examination, which are the hallmarks of sapphires from the reputed historic deposit in Kashmir, located in a remote area of the Himalayan Mountains in India.” A few minor nicks and abrasions to facet edges, minor scratches on crown facet. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 5.00 – 5.25 carats, average color-grade F-G color and clarity-grade VS clarity. Minor scratches to the metal, but overall in very good condition. Gross weight approximately 14 grams.

 

LOT 402 - SAPPHIRE RING
LOT 402 – SAPPHIRE RING – illustrated unmounted

 

LOT 402 – SAPPHIRE RING – with estimate of CHF 500,000 – 700,000 (USD 506,945 – 709,723) is another Sapphire highlight of the sale. Ring Size 52, 18k gold ring, stamped 750 for 18k gold, is set with an octagonal step-cut sapphire weighing 17.62 carats. The sapphire is illustrated unmounted.

SSEF report no. 103190, and Gübelin report no. 18097160, state that the sapphire weighing 17.62 carats, with dimensions of 17.04 x 14.20 x 8.18 mm, is of Burmese origin with no indications of heating. Gübelin report further states that the blue color of the sapphire is Royal Blue Color. The Sapphire is blue of strong saturation, with typical inclusions visible under 10x magnification and one surface reaching inclusion at the side. In very good condition. Gross weight approximately 5 grams.

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