Sotheby’s London December Fine Jewels Sale is scheduled to take place on December 12, 2017 at their New Bond Street Auction Centre in London. A total of 440 lots will be on offer at the auctions, taking place in two sessions; Lots 1 – 232 being offered in the morning sessions starting at 10.00 AM and Lots 233 – 440 being offered in the afternoon sessions starting at 2.00 PM. The Lots will be on display at the same venue prior to the auctions, from Friday, 8th December 2017 to Monday, 11th December 2017, viewing times being 9.30 AM to 4.30 PM on the 8th and 11th of December and 12.00 PM to 5.00 PM on Saturday, 9th December and Sunday, 10th December, 2017.
The Lots on offer include an array of stylish jewels, both antique and contemporary from the 18th to the 21st centuries, by renowned jewelry houses and designers such as Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, Salvador Dali, Faraone, Graff, Mauboussin, Oscar Heyman & Bros, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, Louis Comfort Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. The types of jewelry include bangle bracelets and bracelets, brooches, earclips and earrings, necklaces, parures and demi-parures, pendants and pendant necklaces, rings and wristwatches, incorporating colorless and colored diamonds, colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires, alexandrites, chrysoberyls, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, garnets, opals, peridots, spinels, tanzanites, tourmalines and organic gemstones such as amber, conch pearls, corals, natural and cultured pearls, seed pearls and mother-of-pearl. The Lots range in value from a minimum of GBP 1,300 – 1,800 to a maximum of GBP 270,000 – 320,000 and include wearable and affordable jewelry to suit all tastes.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Top Lot of the sale is a colorless diamond lot, with an estimate of GBP 270,000 – 320,000 (USD 357,831 – 424,096) assigned Lot No. 440 and titled, IMPORTANT DIAMOND NECKLACE, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 1950S. The 36.5 cm, choker length fringe necklace, signed V.C.A.N.Y and numbered 26017, is designed as a graduated series of round brilliant-cut diamonds, the front suspending thirteen graduated claw-set marquise-shaped diamond fringes, with trefoil surmounts, set with a single small round brilliant-cut diamond at the base and two deviating smaller marquise-shaped diamonds.
The Lot is accompanied by three GIA reports. One report bearing no. 6183861872, dated November 2017, states that the large oval-shaped diamond, weighs 3.37 carats and is D-color and VVS2 clarity. A second report bearing no. 2181861673, dated November 2017, states that the central marquise-shaped diamond weighing 4.89 carats is D-color and SI1 clarity. A third report bearing no. 1182861676, dated November 2017, states that a marquise-shaped diamond on a side fringe weighing 4.05 carats is D-color and VS1 clarity.
Remaining marquise-shaped diamonds left to right estimated color and clarity approximately: 0.88 carat: E/F, VS 1.63 carats: E/F, VS 1.59 carats: E/F, SI (large chip to girdle) 2.68 carats: D/E, VS 3.38 carats: E/F, VS ( strong blue fluorescence) 2.94 carats: D/E, SI 2.65 carats: E/F, VS (large chip to girdle) 1.83 carats: E/F, VVS 1.47 carats: E/F, VVS 0.86 carats: E/F SI (large chip to girdle) Principle central brilliant-cut diamond estimated color and clarity approximately: 1.45 carats, E/F, VS Remaining stones bright and lively estimated approximately D-G, VS-SI on average. Total weight of remaining brilliant-cut diamonds approximately 30.00 carats, graduated from approximately 1.50 to 0.30 carats, total weight of remaining diamonds in trefoil surmounts approximately 3.50-4.50 carats. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 65.00-70.00 carats.
Other significant colorless diamond lots include Lots 400, 88, 433 and 195.
Lot 400 – DIAMOND RIVIÈRE, 1950S – with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 60,000 – 80,000 (USD 79,518 – 106,024 is the 4th top highlight of the sale based on estimates and 2nd most valued colorless diamond lot of the sale. The 38 cm choker length rivière necklace, is composed of articulated links claw-set with graduated brilliant-cut diamonds. The clasp is designed as a stylized bow set with baguette and marquise-shaped diamonds and stamped on the side with French assay marks PT 950 for platinum and numbered 9389.
The Lot is accompanied by seven AnchorCert reports: 20002163, 15th March 2012, 1.15 carats, I-color, VS2 clarity, faint fluorescence. 20002161, 15th March 2012, 1.21 carats, H-color, SI1 clarity, faint fluorescence. 20002164, 15th March 2012, 1.13 carats, I-color, SI1 clarity, faint fluorescence. 20002211, 19th March 2012, 1.46 carats, G-color, SI1 clarity, faint fluorescence. 20002162, 15th March 2012, 1.24 carats, H-color, SI1 clarity, faint fluorescence. 20002166, 15th March 2012, 0.85 carats, H-color, VS1 clarity, medium fluorescence. 20002165, 15th March 2012, 0.82 carats, F-color, SI1 clarity, faint fluorescence. Total diamond weight approximately 35.00-40.00 carats, estimated color and clarity of remaining stones approximately H-J, VS-SI on average.
Lot 433 is another colorless diamond lot, titled, DIAMOND RING with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 45,000 – 55,000 (USD 59,639 – 72,892). The size P, platinum ring stamped “Platinum” on the inside of the shank, is set with a circular-cut, L-color, VVS2 clarity diamond weighing 6.84 carats, flanked by baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring.
HRD report no. 11002866002, dated February 2001, accompanying the lot, states that the diamond weighing 6.84 carats is tinted white (L) color, VVS2 clarity. Estimated weight of baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring approximately 0.60-0.70 carats.
Lot 195 – TWO DIAMOND RINGS – with an estimate of GBP 35,000 – 45,000 (USD 46,386 – 59,639) is another colorless diamond lot. The lot comprises of a size K, yellow gold ring, claw-set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 5.22 carats and a size K, yellow gold eternity ring set with several brilliant-cut diamonds.
Estimated color and clarity of 5.22-carat diamond approximately K/L color, VS2 clarity. Estimated total weight of brilliant-cut diamonds on eternity ring approximately 0.50-0.80 carats and estimated clarity SI/I.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
The second most valued lot of the sale is a colored diamond lot assigned Lot No. 219 and titled, PAIR OF FANCY YELLOW DIAMOND EARRINGS, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 150,000 -200,000 (USD 198,795 – 265,060). The earrings are of stud design, claw-set with a central radiant-cut fancy yellow diamond weighing 6.75 and 7.04 carats respectively, surrounded by a border of colorless brilliant-cut diamonds. The post of the stud earrings are held in place by butterfly fittings.
Two GIA reports accompanying the lot, bearing nos. 1172471813 and 5172449843, state that the central diamonds weighing 6.75 carats and 7.04 carats are Fancy Yellow, natural color and VVS2 clarity. Each post stamped YD 7.04 ct 52D 1.00 ct 750 and YD 6.75 ct 5.2D 750. Butterfly fittings stamped 750. 750 refers to 18k gold. Estimated total weight of brilliant-cut diamonds approximately 1.00 carat; estimated clarity VS on average and estimated color H-J.
Other significant colored diamond lots include Lots 398, 216 and 210.
Lot 398 – FANCY YELLOW DIAMOND RING, GRAFF – with an estimate of GBP 24,000 – 44,000 (USD 31,807 – 58,313) is another significant colored diamond lot. The size M ring stamped GRAFF 4.02 FY VS2 inside of the shank, is claw-set with a radiant-cut, fancy yellow, VS2 clarity diamond weighing 4.02 carats, flanked by triangular-shaped diamonds on its shoulders and accented by small brilliant-cut yellow diamonds on the upper shank of the ring.
GIA report no. 15760740, dated March 2007, accompanying the lot, states that the diamond weighing 4.02 carats is Fancy Yellow, natural color and VS2 clarity. The lot is also accompanied by a letter from Graff.
Lot 216 is another yellow diamond lot, titled “FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND RING” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 26,506 – 39,759). Size K1/2, stamped ‘Asprey’ on the interior of the shank, is set with a circular-cut, fancy intense yellow, VS2 clarity diamond weighing 4.30 carats. GIA report no. 2185832016, dated October 2017, accompanying the lot states that the diamond weighing 4.30 carats is Fancy Intense Yellow color, VS2 clarity, with nil fluorescence.
Lot 210 – FANCY YELLOW DIAMOND RING – with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 20,000 – 25,000 (USD 26,506 – 33,133) is another colored diamond lot. Size J1/2 , 18k yellow gold and platinum ring, stamped 18K and PLAT on the interior of the shank, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped, fancy yellow natural color, VS2 clarity diamond weighing 4.72 carats, flanked by half-moon-shaped diamonds on the shoulders of the ring
GIA report no. 5101773118, accompanying the lot states that the central diamond is Fancy Yellow, natural color, VS2 clarity.
COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS
Top among the colored gemstone lots and the most valued colored gemstone lot of the sale is Lot 436, a ruby lot, titled, RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 60,000 -80,000 (USD 79,518 – 106,024). The size L ring is claw-set with a cushion-shaped pinkish-red Burma ruby weighing approximately 6.50 carats, at the center of a scrolled mount set with brilliant-cut and baguette colorless diamonds.
SSEF report no. 88001, accompanying the lot states that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat treatment, with dimensions of approximately 10.8 x 9.85 x 6.5 mm, and weighing approximately 6.50 carats. The pinkish-red ruby is transparent with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 3.00-4.00 cts. Estimated average colour G-H and clarity VS1-2.
Other significant ruby lots include Lots 262 and 293.
Lot 262 – GEM SET, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND PENDANT, 1850S – with an estimate of GBP 25,000 – 30,000 (USD 33,133 – 39,759) is an important antique ruby, emerald and diamond designed in the 1850s as a blue and red enameled yellow-gold cross, set with cabochon rubies, emeralds and rose-cut colorless diamonds. The center of the cross with a blue enameled background is set with a central square emerald surrounded by four large rose-cut colorless diamonds along the arms of the cross, and four smaller rose-cut diamonds placed in between.
The two shorter horizontal arms of the cross and the vertical short arm of the cross, have a common design centering on a oval cabochon emerald surrounded by three oval or pear-shaped cabochon rubies placed at the corners of a triangle. The background enamel is mainly blue with three red enamel areas also at the corners of a triangle. Three pairs of smaller rose-cut diamonds are placed in symmetrical positions on the short arms of the cross, one pair at the base, one pair at the middle and another pair at the end. Each short arm terminates in a common radiating design consisting of three radiating pear-shaped cabochon emeralds, two placed at the ends and one at the center and a pair of smaller radiating cabochon rubies, one pair each placed between basal and terminal emerald. The emeralds themselves terminate in a small rose-cut diamond.
The vertical short arm of the cross has another terminal scrolling design, with a terminal scroll and two basal scrolls. A large colorless rose cut diamond is placed at the center of the scrolling design from which arises two basal and one terminal pear-shaped cabochon emeralds, and a single pear-shaped cabochon ruby placed in between the emeralds. The terminal scroll ends in a 18k gold ring fitting
The lower vertical long arm of the cross also enameled with blue and red enamel has three larger oval cabochon emeralds and three smaller oval cabochon rubies placed alternately in the middle, surrounded by blue enamel, interspersed on the outside with red enamel. In line with the central oval cabochon emerald, two smaller oval cabochon rubies are placed on either side, except at the terminal cabochon emerald where the two cabochon rubies are paced at an angle pointing towards the semi-circular base. At least six pairs of smaller colorless diamonds are placed on the lower vertical long arm intermittently. The lower vertical long arm ends in a radiating design of emeralds and rubies, similar to the radiating designs at the ends of the horizontal short arms.
The dimensions of the pendant cross are 101 x 59 x 10 mm. The emeralds are medium to light green. The rubies are medium purplish-red, transparent, and with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. Total weight of cross approximately 40.3 grams.
The pendant cross was presented by Tsar Nicholas I to the celebrated French actress Madame Arnould-Plessy in 1850. The pendant entered the collection of Monsieur Foulon de Vaux, who sold it at an auction on 11th June, 2005, conducted by Finan & Co, Fine Art Consultants Auctioneers and Valuers. The pendant cross which was Lot 8 at the auction sold for GBP 12,200.
Top among the emerald lots is Lot 200, which is also the 5th most valuable lot in the sale, titled EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 50,000 – 70,000 (USD 66,265 – 92,771). The 40.5 cm choker length necklace 18k yellow and white gold necklace, with maker’s mark and stamped 18K on the clasp, is composed of graduated cabochon emeralds set on 18k yellow gold, alternating with triads of round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds set on 18k white gold. The emeralds are deep green in color, transparent/semi-translucent with typical inclusions visible by the naked eye. Dimensions of largest emerald approximately 11.7 x 9.6 x 7.3 mm. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 6.00-6.50 carats and estimated clarity SI.
LOT 279 – PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, EARLY 20TH CENTURY – with an estimate of GBP 12,000 – 18,000 (USD 15,904 – 23,855) is another emerald lot in the sale. Each of the pair of earrings of length 4.1 cm and 4.3 cm respectively, is set with a matching drop-shaped emerald suspended from a millegrain-set circular-cut and rose-cut diamond surmount, consisting of a bell-cap and a linear suspension set with three smaller circular-cut diamonds, suspended from the lower loop of a middle portion set with a larger circular-cut diamond, with two loops above and below. The upper loop is suspended from the top most part of the surmount, set with a larger circular-cut diamond and post and butterfly fittings on the reverse.
Dimensions of drop-shaped emeralds are approximately 14.3 x 14.4 x 12.5 mm and 15.5 x 13.3 x 11.7 mm.The emeralds are medium-green, transparent/translucent, with numerous typical inclusions visible to the naked eye.
Top lot among sapphire lots is LOT 88 – DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE PARURE, HARRY WINSTON – which is also the 6th most valuable lot of the sale, with an estimate of GBP 50,000 – 70,000(USD 66,265 – 92,771). The parure consists of a necklace, bracelet and a pair of pendant earrings of similar design consisting of floral clusters of circular-cut sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds alternating with oval links set with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds.
The 43 cm, Princess length necklace has as its centerpiece three floral clusters of circular-cut sapphires surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds, and a neck-chain composed of similarly set clusters alternating with oval links set with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds.
The 17.5 cm bracelet has six sapphire-centered clusters alternating with six oval links set with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds.
Each of the pair of pendent earrings has a single sapphire-centered cluster with post fittings on the reverse, from which an oval link, set with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds is suspended. Length of each earrings 3.7 cm.
The lot is accompanied by an invoice from Harry Winston, dated 1980, stating that the total diamond weights are 15.41 carats (bracelet), 40.35 carats (necklace), 6.41 carats (earrings), and the total sapphire weight across the parure is 13.13 carats. Bracelet, necklace and both earrings stamped Pt 950 for platinum on the reverse of one link and maker’s mark JT for Jacques Timey. Bracelet numbered 8976 on the clasp and stamped OR for gold on the tongue. Necklace numbered 8728 on the clasp and stamped OR for gold on tongue. Sapphires are deep blue and transparent, with typical inclusions visible under magnification and some to the naked eye. Estimated color of diamonds H/I color and average clarity VS.
LOT 361 – SAPPHIRE RING – with an estimate of GBP 10,000 – 15,000 (USD 13,253 – 19,880) is another sapphire lot in the sale. The size H, yellow gold ring is set with a cushion-shaped Ceylon blue sapphire weighing approximately 10.20 carats.
GCS, report no. 77120-69, accompanying the lot, states that the sapphire is natural, with no indications of heating and of Sri Lanka (Ceylon) origin, measuring approximately 13.91 x 8.48 x 8.77 mm and calculated to weigh approximately 10.20 carats. The Sapphire is medium purplish-blue, transparent and with some typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. Gross weight of ring approximately 14.5 grams.
LOT 149 is an amethyst lot by Bulgari designed in the 1970s, titled, HARDSTONE, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BULGARI, 1970S, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 10,000 – 15,000 (USD 13,253 – 19,880). The curb-link yellow gold chain necklace has a pentagonal-shaped centerpiece in the front set with a carved hardstone depicting Hypnos, the deity in Greek mythology, personifying sleep, in the center, surrounded by polished amethysts and four step-cut square diamonds on either side.
LOT 289 – is an alexandrite lot, titled, ALEXANDRITE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of GBP 3,000 – 4,000 (USD 3,976 – 5,301). The Size J, yellow gold ring is set with a matching pair of pear-shaped alexandrite and colorless diamond. Dimensions of alexandrite and diamond are respectively 8.3 x 6.6 x 4.7 mm and 8.5 x 6.4 x 4.0 mm. The alexandrite is bluish-green in daylight and dark-purple in incandescent light. GCS, report no. 78123-41 accompanying the lot states that the alexandrite is natural, with no indications of treatment. Estimated weights of alexandrite and diamond are 2.0 carats and 1.37 carats. Estimated diamond color grade G-color and clarity grade S1, as graded in the mount.
LOT 107 – HARDSTONE AND DIAMOND PARURE – with an estimate of GBP 12,000 – 18,000 (USD 15,904 – 23,855) is top among the Chalcedony Lots. The parure consists of a necklace, and a pair of earrings, a ring and brooch of matching design. The 44 cm Princess length necklace is of festoon design, the festoons set with circular-cut diamonds, suspending five carved chalcedony poppies dyed red, set with circular-cut diamond pistils and with carved green nephrite leaves.
The matching pair of earrings with post fittings are each made of a red-dyed chalcedony poppy only set with a circular-cut diamond pistil, without the green nephrite leaves.
The Size P ring is also set with a single red-dyed chalcedony poppy with a circular-cut diamond pistil.
The brooch is also set with a red-dyed chalcedony poppy with a circular-cut diamond pistil, with several green nephrite leaves and the coiled stem also set with several circular-cut diamonds.
Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 5.50 carats; estimated average clarity I, but some SI; estimated colour J-L, but some of yellowish tint, as graded within the limitation of the mount. The nephrite and dyed chalcedony are in good condition. Total gross weight approximately 119 grams.
LOT 244 – CHRYSOBERYL AND DIAMOND RING – with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 6,000 – 8,000 (USD 7,952 – 10,602) is top among the Chrysoberyl Lots. Size O1/2 14k yellow gold and platinum ring, Stamped 14K-PLAT on the inside of the shank, is collet-set with a cushion-shaped chrysoberyl within a surround of circular-cut diamonds. The greenish-brown chrysoberyl with good saturation, transparency and clarity has dimensions of approximately 13.1 x 13.3 x 9.8 mm and is estimated to weigh approximately 14.01 carats. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 1.80-2.80 carats; estimated color I-K and estimated average clarity I (included) as gauged and graded in the mount.
LOT 185 – CITRINE AND TURQUOISE PENDANT, CARTIER, CIRCA 1950 – with an estimate of GBP 5,000 – 7,000 (USD 6,627 – 9,277) is the third most valued Citrine Lot of the sale. The 18k yellow gold pendant signed Cartier Paris on the reverse of setting, has as its centerpiece a circular-cut citrine and the foliate rope twist mount is collet-set with turquoise cabochons. The orangey-yellow citrine with good transparency and very minor inclusions visible under magnification, has dimensions of 28 x 28 x 18.5 mm, and is estimated to weigh approximately 69.4 carats. The Turquoises are medium greenish-blue and opaque and some are with typical matrix inclusions visible to the naked eye. Overall dimensions of the pendant are approximately 52 x 35 x 22 mm.
Top among the coral lots is LOT 231 – CORAL AND DIAMOND DEMI-PARURE, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, TOGETHER WITH A CORAL AND DIAMOND PENDANT AND RING , 1970S, with an estimate of GBP 15,000 – 20,000 (USD 19,880 – 26,506). The demi-parure consists of a necklace, pair of earrings, pendant and ring. The 36 cm choker length necklace is designed as fluted red coral sections spaced by textured links set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The necklace can be dismantled and worn as two bracelets.
The pair of pendant earrings of matching design with post and clip fittings, each suspends a pear-shaped fluted red coral by a bell cap arrangement from a yellow gold surmount set with three vertical rows of round brilliant-cut diamonds.
The pendant is also made up of a pear-shaped fluted red coral suspended by a bellcap arrangement from a yellow gold surmount set with round brilliant-cut diamond.
The size L yellow gold ring is set with an oval-shaped fluted red-coral, highlighted by a round brilliant-cut diamond surround.