HIGHLGHTS OF SOTHEBY’S GENEVA FINE JEWELS SALE, DECEMBER 14, 2017

Sotheby’s newly introduced Geneva Fine Jewels Sale is scheduled to take place on December 14, 2017 at their Geneva Auction Center, offering 463 lots consisting of superb, wearable and affordable jewelry to suit all tastes. The Auction will be held in three sessions, the first session starting at 10.30 AM offering Lots 501 to 656; the second session starting at 2.30 PM offering lots 657 to 802 and the third session starting at 6.00 PM offering lots 803 to 963. The sale will be preceded by exhibition of the lots at Geneva from Monday 11th to Wednesday 13th December, viewing times on the first two days being from 11.00 AM to 7.00 PM CET and on Wednesday from 11.00 AM to 5.00 PM CET. The Auction includes exciting ‘Panthère’ rings by Cartier, colorful jewels by Michele Della Valle and iconic flower ear clips by JAR, alongside an array of pieces by Boucheron, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels. The type of jewels on offer include bracelets and bangle bracelets, brooches, demi-parures, earclips, earrings, necklaces, parures, pendants, rings and wrist watches, incorporating colorless and colored diamonds, colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, aquamarines, chrysoberyls, citrines, garnets, opals, peridots, star rubies, star sapphires, tanzanites, tourmalines, turquoises, and organic gemstones such as corals, natural and cultured pearls, seed pearls and mother-of-pearls, as well as unmounted gemstones.

LOT 802 – COLLECTION OF UNMOUNTED GEMSTONES
LOT 802 – COLLECTION OF UNMOUNTED GEMSTONES

 

Top lot of the sale is a collection of colored gemstones assigned Lot No. 802 and titled, COLLECTION OF UNMOUNTED GEMSTONES, with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 120,000 – 180,000 (USD 120,493 – 180,740). The variously shaped unmounted colored gemstones consisting of rubies, emeralds and multi-colored sapphires such as blue, yellow and pink sapphires of different shades, have a total weight of approximately 10,139 carats, suitable for settings in different types of jewelry.

 

RUBY LOTS

Important ruby lots include Lots 664, 895 and 842.

 

LOT 664 – RUBY AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 664 – RUBY AND DIAMOND PARURE

 

LOT 664 – RUBY AND DIAMOND PARURE – with an estimate of CHF 70,000 – 120,000 (USD 70,288 – 120,493) is the top among the ruby lots in the sale. The parure consists of a necklace, bracelet and a pair of earclips, all of scroll design. The 37.5 cm choker length 18k yellow gold necklace is set with brilliant-cut diamonds and the front accented with variously cut rubies. The centerpiece of the necklace is set with somewhat triangular or heart-shaped ruby, highlighted by a complete heart-shaped row of brilliant-cut diamonds and a lower partial heart-shaped row of similarly cut diamonds. The two rubies on either side of the centerpiece placed symmetrically at the ends of the scrolls, are rectangular in shape. The two rubies after this placed symmetrically on either side are cushion-shaped rubies. The necklace has maker’s mark for Jacques Timey and French assay marks and stamped OR 750 for 18 carat gold. The necklace is inscribed R 21.10 and B 12.58, indicating total carat weight of rubies and diamonds.

The 18 cm 18k yellow gold bracelet also of scroll design and set with brilliant-cut diamonds has a centerpiece exactly similar to that of the necklace. Three cushion-shaped rubies are placed on either side of the centerpiece in symmetrical positions. The bracelet has French assay marks and stamped OR 750 for 18 carat gold, and inscribed R 11.98 and B 5.46, indicating total carat weight of rubies and diamonds.

The pair of earclips also of scroll design set with brilliant-cut diamonds are each set with a triangular shaped ruby at the end and inside the scroll. The earclips also has French assay marks and stamped OR 750 for 18 carat gold, and one earclip is inscribed R 3.49 and the other earclip inscribed B 2.77, indicating total carat weight of rubies and diamonds.

Rubies in the entire parure stated to weigh a total of approximately 36.67 carats, well matched in colour, purplish red, with typical inclusions, some surface-reaching. Diamonds stated to weigh a total of approximately 20.81 carats, on average G-H color, VS-SI clarity, as graded in the mount.

LOT 895 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING
LOT 895 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING

LOT 895 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING – is the second ruby highlight and the 3rd most valued lot of the sale, with an estimate of CHF 60,000 – 100,000 (USD 60,247 – 100,411). Size 50, 18k yellow gold ring with French maker’s mark and assay mark and stamped OR 750 for 18 carat gold, is collet-set with an oval ruby weighing 16.25 carats framed by brilliant-cut diamonds, and the mount further enhanced with diamonds of yellow tint. The ring is also inscribed R 16.25, B 5.35 and BJ 2.16, referring to the stated carat weight of the ruby, the stated total carat weight of the brilliant-cut diamonds, and the stated total carat weight of the brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow tint. The red color of ruby of medium strong saturation, semi-transparent, with typical inclusions. Diamonds of yellow tint well matched in colour. Near-colourless diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 5.00 – 6.00 carats, on average G-H colour, VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. SSEF report no. 66497, dated 21 January 2013, accompanying the lot states that the oval ruby measuring approximately 18.20 x 12.60 x 7.00 mm, weighing 16.25 carats is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

 

EMERALD LOTS

 

 

 

LOT 948 – FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, MEISTER
LOT 948 – FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, MEISTER

Top among the emerald lots, which is also the 4th most valuable lot of the sale is LOT 948 – FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, MEISTER, with an estimate of CHF 50,000 – 70,000 (USD 50,206 – 70,288). The size 54, 18k white gold ring with maker’s mark for Meister and stamped 750 for 18 carat gold, is claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut emerald weighing 3.39 carats, flanked by shield-shaped diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. The Emerald is green of medium strong saturation, with good transparency and small typical inclusions visible under close inspection. SSEF report no. 89642 and Gübelin report no.17100158, accompanying the lots state that the step-cut emerald weighing 3.39 carats and measuring 9.41 x 9.20 x 5.57 mm, is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity modification. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 2.00 – 2.50 carats, average color-grade G-H color and clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount.

Other significant emerald lots include Lots 909 and 655

SAPPHIRE LOTS

Significant sapphire lots include Lots 592, 544 and 772.

LOT 592 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 592 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PARURE

LOT 592 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PARURE – with an estimate of CHF 50,000 – 80,000 (USD 50,206 – 80,329) is the 5th most valuable lot as well as the top sapphire lot in the sale. The parure consists of a necklace, bracelet and a pair of earclips and a ring, all of scroll design like Lot 664. The 38 cm, choker length 18k yellow gold scroll necklace is set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and the front lower half of necklace accented with oval and cushion-cut sapphires. The centerpiece of the necklace is set with a large oval-cut blue sapphire, highlighted by a complete row and a partial row of round brilliant-cut diamonds. On either side of the centerpiece of the necklace, five graduated oval or cushion-cut blue sapphires are placed in symmetrical positions at the end of the scrolls. The necklace stamped with french assay mark and 750 for 18 carat gold is inscribed B 14.77, S 17.32 and S 13.55, referring to the stated weight of brilliant-cut diamonds and sapphires.

The 17.5 cm, 18k yellow gold bracelet of scroll design like the necklace and set with brilliant-cut diamonds has a centerpiece exactly similar to that of the necklace, and set with a large oval-shaped blue sapphire highlighted by two complete rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Three smaller oval sapphires are placed symmetrically on either side of the centerpiece. The bracelet has French assay marks and stamped 750 for 18 carat gold, and inscribed B 5.87, S 7.33 and S 10.31, referring to the weight of brilliant-cut diamonds and sapphires.

The pair of earclips also of scroll design set with brilliant-cut diamonds are each set with a oval-shaped blue sapphire at the end and inside the scroll. The earclips also has French assay marks and stamped 750 for 18 carat gold, and inscribed B 1.80, and S 4.59, referring to the weight of brilliant-cut diamonds and sapphires.

Size 521/2, 18k yellow gold ring with French assay marks and stamped 750 for 18 carat gold, has as its centerpiece an oval-cut blue sapphire weighing 7.99 carats surrounded by a complete row and partial row of brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing 2.04 carats. The Ring is inscribed B 2.04 and S 7.99 referring to the weight of brilliant-cut diamonds and sapphires.

LOT 544 – COLOUR CHANGE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
LOT 544 – COLOUR CHANGE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING

LOT 544 – COLOUR CHANGE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 25,000 – 35,000 (USD 25,103 – 35,144) is another sapphire lot in the sale. The Size 51, 18k white gold ring, stamped 750 for 18 carat gold, is set with a cushion-shaped color change Ceylon sapphire weighing 11.63 carats framed with brilliant-cut diamonds. SSEF report no. 96043, accompanying the lot states that the cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 11.63 carats, measuring 14.12 x 13.05 x 6.64 mm, is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating and with a moderate color change. The Sapphire is purplish blue to purple in color, with typical inclusions. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 2.00 – 2.50 carats, average color-grade I-J color, and clarity grade VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.

 

COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS

Significant colorless diamond lots include Lots 656, 947 and 959

LOT 656 – DIAMOND BROOCH AND A TSAVORITE, PERIDOT AND DIAMOND BROOCH, MICHELE DELLA VALLE
LOT 656 – DIAMOND BROOCH AND A TSAVORITE, PERIDOT AND DIAMOND BROOCH, MICHELE DELLA VALLE

LOT 656 – DIAMOND BROOCH AND A TSAVORITE, PERIDOT AND DIAMOND BROOCH, MICHELE DELLA VALLE – with an estimate of CHF 45,000 – 65,000 (USD 45,185 – 65,267) is the top colorless diamond lot of the sale. Each of the brooches designed as a palm tree, is signed Michele della Valle and numbered respectively 11710 and 11711 with maker’s mark for Michele della Valle and stamped 750 for 18k gold. One 18k white gold palm tree brooch is set with brilliant-cut, baguette and tapered baguette diamonds. The stem of the palm tree set with alternating zones of brilliant-cut diamonds and baguette-cut diamonds and out of the nine leaves or branches four are set with two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds only and the remaining five with an additional baguette and tapered baguette diamond row in the middle of the leaf, representing a mid-rib.

The second 18k yellow gold palm tree brooch is set with circular-cut tsavorite garnets, step-cut peridots and baguette & tapered baguette diamonds. The stem of the palm tree is set with alternating zones of baguette & tapered baguette diamonds and circular-cut tsavorite garnets, step-cut peridots. Out of the ten leaves or branches outer six leaves are set with two rows of circular-cut tsavorite garnets and step-cut peridots only, and the inner four leaves have an additional row of baguette and tapered baguette diamonds in the middle.

The Tsavorite garnets are well matched in color, green, with typical inclusions visible under close inspection only. Estimated total weight of diamonds 25.00 – 35.00 carats; average color-grade G-H color and clarity-grade VS-SI, as gauged and graded in the mount.

LOT 947 – DIAMOND RING
LOT 947 – DIAMOND RING

LOT 947 – DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 35,000 – 55,000 (USD 35,144 – 55,226) is another colorless diamond highlight. The size 52 platinum ring, Stamped Pt 950 for platinum is Set with a round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.00 carats. GIA report no. 2181776597 accompanying the lot, states that the brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.00 carats and measuring 9.41 x 9.48 x 5.56 mm, is E Color and VVS1 Clarity.

LOT 959 – DIAMOND BRACELET
LOT 959 – DIAMOND BRACELET

LOT 959 – DIAMOND BRACELET – with an estimate of CHF 35,000 – 55,000 (USD 35,144 – 55,226) is another significant diamond lot in the sale. The 16.2 cm bracelet is of geometric design, the center highlighted with a step-cut diamond framed within baguette diamonds and pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds. The step-cut diamond measuring approximately 10.99 x 8.93 x 5.45 mm, is estimated to weigh approximately 4.50 carats, with a color-grade of K-L color and clarity grade of VS. Estimated total weight of other diamonds approximately 19.00 – 21.00 carats, average color-grade H-I color and clarity-grade VS-SI, as gauged and graded in the mount.

 

COLORED DIAMOND LOTS

 

LOT 566 - FANCY YELLOW-BROWN DIAMOND RING
LOT 566 – FANCY YELLOW-BROWN DIAMOND RING

LOT 566 – FANCY YELLOW-BROWN DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 25,000 – 35,000(USD 25,103 – 35,144) is the top lot among colored diamonds. The size 531/2 platinum ring, stamped Pl 950 for platinum, is set with a brilliant-cut fancy yellow-brown diamond weighing 7.46 carats, framed with brilliant-cut diamonds. GIA report no. 6183800737, accompanying the lot states that the brilliant-cut diamond weighing 7.46 carats, measuring 12.74 x 12.80 x 7.49 mm, is Fancy Yellow-Brown Color and I-1 Clarity. Estimated total weight of brilliant-cut, near-colorless diamonds approximately 1.75 – 2.00 carats.

 

COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS

AMETHYST LOTS

 

LOT 542 - AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 542 – AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE

LOT 542 – AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE – with an estimate of CHF 3,000 – 5,000 (USD 3,012 – 5,021) is an amethyst lot of the sale. The parure consists of a brooch, a pair of ear clips and a ring.

 

LOT 542 - BROOCH CUM PENDANT OF THE AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 542 – BROOCH CUM PENDANT OF THE AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE

 

The centerpiece of the yellow gold brooch is a heart-shaped amethyst framed with brilliant-cut diamonds, separated by kite-shaped purplish enameled areas. The brooch may also be worn as a pendant and has a collapsible pendant hook.

 

LOT 542 - PAIR OF EARCLIPS OF AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 542 – PAIR OF EARCLIPS OF AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE

The pair of earclips are each set with a circular-cut amethyst, also framed with brilliant-cut diamonds, separated by kite-shaped enameled areas.

LOT 542 - RING OF THE AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE
LOT 542 – RING OF THE AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PARURE

The size 531/2 yellow gold ring is also claw-set with a central circular-cut amethyst framed with brilliant-cut diamonds, separated by kite-shaped golden enameled areas.

 

AQUAMARINE LOTS

 

LOT 963 - PAIR OF AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS, FRANCESCO ROSA
LOT 963 – PAIR OF AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS, FRANCESCO ROSA

Top among the aquamarine lots is LOT 963 – PAIR OF AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS, FRANCESCO ROSA – with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 25,000 – 35,000 (USD 25,103 – 35,144). The surmount of each pendant earrings is set with a square-cut aquamarine at the top, followed by three square-cut diamonds and then three hexagonal-cut aquamarines, from which is suspended a pendant of snow flake design. The center of the snow flake pendant is set with a hexagonal aquamarine surrounded by a hexagonal row of baguette-cut diamonds. From the six vertices of this hexagon six branches of the snowflake arise, which are set with baguette-cut, square-cut and whistle-shaped colorless diamonds. From the three branches of the snowflake pointing downwards, five hexagonal aquamarines are suspended, the central suspension from the lower branch of the flake also carrying a square-shaped aquamarine and square-shaped diamond. The suspension on either side of the central one, arising from the side branches of the flake also carry a square-shaped aquamarine and diamond. the two suspensions at the extreme ends carry only a hexagonal aquamarine arising from the apex of the side branches of the flake.

The pendants earrings are provided with post and butterfly fittings. The earrings are signed FR for Francesco Rosa and carry Italian maker’s mark and stamped 950Pt for platinum. The aquamarines are well matched in color, light greenish blue, with good transparency. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 3.75 – 4.25 carats; average color-grade F-G color and clarity-grade VS-SI, as gauged and graded in the mount.

 

MORGANITE LOTS

 

LOT 957 - MORGANITE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, BULGARI
LOT 957 – MORGANITE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, BULGARI

LOT 957 – MORGANITE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, BULGARI – with an estimate of CHF 35,000 – 55,000 (USD 35,144 – 55,226) is a significant lot of the sale.The brooch signed Bulgari is of Giardinetto design and has a vase decorated with morganite and the flowers and a leaf set with baguette, circular and brilliant-cut diamonds. Morganite is light pink and clean to the naked eye.Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 10.00 – 11.00 carats, average color-grade K-L color, clarity-grade I, as gauged and graded in the mount.

 

 

 

 

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