Sotheby’s London Fine Jewels Summer auction is scheduled to be held on Wednesday, 06th June, 2018 at their Bond Street auction center, located in the heart of London’s Mayfair district. A total of 379 lots will be on offer at the auctions taking place in two sessions, the first session offering lots 01 to 191 starting at 10.00 AM and the second session offering lots 192 to 379, starting at 2.00 PM. The auction will be preceded by the exhibition of the lots at the same venue, from Friday, 01st June, 2018 to Tuesday, 05th June, 2018, viewing times being 9.00 AM to 4.30 PM BST on the 01st, 04th and 05th June 2018 and 12.00 PM to 5.00 PM BST on the remaining two days, Saturday, 02nd June and Sunday, 03rd June, 2018.
The lots offered range in value from as low as GBP 220 (USD 315) to a high of GBP 280,000 (USD 400,568), catering to a wider range of clients and includes an iconic collection of jewels by Ravasco, as well as stylish retro jewels from the 1940s. Jewels from leading jewelry houses and designers such as Bulgari, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and David Webb are featured among a fine selection of diamond, emerald and sapphire jewels to suit all tastes for the summer season.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Top Lot of the sale based on estimates is a colorless diamond lot bearing LOT NO. 379, titled IMPORTANT DIAMOND NECKLACE, CARTIER, with an estimate of GBP 220,000 – 280,000 (USD 314,732 – 400,568). The 38.5 cm (15.2 ins) choker-length platinum necklace, stamped with French assay marks and Pt 950 for platinum, signed Cartier Paris on clasp and numbered 860220, has a front half composed of three rows, the upper and lower row set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and the middle row set with baguette-cut diamonds. Three square-cut diamonds are set at the point of origin of the triple row on either side, and three other square-cut diamonds are placed along the median line of the necklace with opposite vertices of the square placed end to end, and the two halves of each row attached on either side of a median square-cut diamond. The median row of square-cut diamonds supports a briolette diamond weighing 20.30 carats.
The rear half of the necklace is composed of links set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and the clasp behind is set with a marquise-cut diamond.
GIA report no. 2145896940 in respect of the briolette diamond states that the 20.30-carat diamond is W to X range color and SI1 Clarity.
Estimated total weight of other diamonds approximately 34.00 – 38.00 carats; average color-grade G-I color and clarity-grade VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. The rear clasp is secure with safety catch to the side.
Other significant colorless diamond lots include Lots 354 and 333.
LOT 354 – DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of GBP 40,000 – 50,000 (USD 57,224 – 71,530) is another significant colorless diamond lot of the sale. Ring size P ½ platinum ring with the shank stamped PLATINUM, and with indistinct maker’s marks, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped, L-color, VVS2 clarity diamond weighing 6.84 carats, flanked by two collet-set baguette-cut diamonds on either shoulder of the ring.
HRD Antwerp lab report no. 11002866002, states that the central diamond weighing 6.84 carats with dimensions of 11.88 – 12.48 x 7.23 mm is L colour, VVS2 clarity, with nil fluorescence. Remaining baguette diamonds are bright and lively, estimated to be M+ color, VS clarity on average and estimated total weight of approximately 0.60 – 0.80 carats. Gross weight of ring approximately 7.8 grams.
LOT 333 – DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of GBP 18,000 – 22,000 (USD 25,751 – 31,473) is another colorless diamond lot of the sale. The 42.5 cm (16.7 ins) choker length necklace is similar in design to lot 379, with a front-half composed of three articulated rows, the upper and lower rows set with round brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds and the middle row set with square and baguette-cut diamond units separated by round brilliant-cut diamonds. The single row rear-half of the necklace or the neck chain is similar in design to the front articulated middle row, consisting of rectangular units set with square and baguette-cut diamonds separated by round brilliant-cut diamonds.
The Diamonds are bright and lively, with estimated total weight of approximately 21.28 carats, estimated color-grade of F-G color and estimated clarity-grade of VS. The clasp behind closes securely. The necklace is in overall good condition. Gross weight approximately 58.6 grams.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
The second most valued and top lot among colored diamonds is LOT 360 – FANCY BLUE-GREY DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of GBP 200,000 – 300,000 (USD 286,120 – 429,180). Ring size O, colored gold ring is set with a 13.94-carat, heart-shaped, fancy blue-grey diamond as centerpiece, highlighted by a row of brilliant-cut diamonds of pink tint on the border of the mount and the shoulders further accented with brilliant-cut diamonds also of pink tint.
GIA report no. 2141888507, states that the central heart-shaped diamond weighing 13.94 carats is Fancy Blue-Grey, Natural Color, measuring 15.77 x 17.60 x 9.37 mm. In our specialists’ opinion, the central stone is I clarity, (diffuse inclusions, some surface-reaching inclusions), with strong blue fluorescence.
The diamonds of pink tint have not been tested for natural color origin. Estimated total weight of pink diamonds approximately 2.00 – 2.50 carats. Gross weight approximately 11 grams.
LOT 335 – FANCY ORANGE-BROWN RING – with an estimate of GBP 15,000 – 20,000 (USD 21,459 – 28,612) is another colored diamond lot of the sale. Ring size L ½ white metal ring, is claw-set with a round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, fancy brown-orange diamond weighing 3.60 carats, with a group of three round brilliant-cut diamonds set on either shoulder of the ring.
GIA report no. 2181887372, states that the central diamond is Fancy Brown-Orange, natural color, I2 clarity, with dimensions of 8.57 x 8.06 x 5.61 mm, weighing 3.60 carats.
The brilliant-cut diamonds are bright and lively; estimated total diamond weight approximately 0.50-0.60 carats; estimated clarity SI; estimated color I-K as graded within the limitations of the mount Overall condition good. Gross weight approximately 6.4 grams.
LOT 322 – PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL, COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, CARTIER – is another colored diamond lot of the sale with an estimate of GBP 10,000 – 15,000 (USD 14,306 – 21,459). Each of the pair of pendant earrings, with post fittings stamped with European convention marks, signed Cartier with marks 750, ©, numbered NM8173, IY to edge of diamond line, suspends a perfectly spherical cultured pearl of dimensions 14.8 x 14.8 x 14.8 mm of white body color with pink overtones, by a linear surmount of brilliant-cut diamonds, originating from square diamond of yellow tint set at the top.
Each tinted yellow diamond measures approximately 5.7 x 5.7mm, depth not possible to gauge due to mount. Remaining colorless diamonds are bright and lively. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 0.60-0.70 carats. Cultured pearls measuring approximately 14.8 x 14.8 x 14.8mm, of round shape, well matched, white body color with pink overtones, medium lustre, some minor pits and very light surface wear and minor scratches. Accompanied by case stamped Cartier.
Top among the sapphire lots is LOT 377 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, 1930S – with an estimate of GBP 70,000 – 90,000 (USD 100,142 – 128,754). The 16.5 cm (6.5 ins.), Art Deco Cartier bracelet designed in the 1930s, signed Cartier London and indistinctly numbered 3512, on either side of clasp, has a central barrel-shaped plaque set with five rows of oval, circular-cut and cushion-shaped sapphires, bordered on either side by a single row of square-shaped diamonds and two baguette diamonds towards the clasp end and the link end of the geometric bracelet, set with three rows of rectangular calibré-cut sapphires, the link to the central plaque and the clasp at the other end set with single-cut and square-cut diamonds.
The Sapphires are mid to deep blue in color, transparent, with typical inclusions and color zoning visible to the naked eye and under magnification and some inclusions surface-reaching.
Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 4.00 – 5.00 carats, average color-grade H-J color and average clarity-grade VS clarity. Links on the bracelet are well-articulated and the clasp is secure.
Other significant sapphire lots include Lots 34 and 191.
LOT 34 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH – with an estimate of GBP 30,000 – 40,000 (USD 42,918 – 57,224) is the second most valued sapphire lot in the sale. The brooch of dimensions 69 x 23 mm is claw-set with a Ceylon oval-shaped cabochon sapphire weighing 83.59 carats and dimensions of 27.45 x 20.20 x 16.80 mm with an under mount set with circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds, suspending five sapphire drops, a median drop and two drops on either side. A surmount on top of the cabochon sapphire is also set with circular-cut and rose-cut diamonds.
A facsimile of the SSEF report no. 85834 accompanying the lot, states that the cabochon sapphire weighing 83.59 carats and measuring 27.45 x 20.20 x 16.80 mm, is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. The cabochon sapphire is blue of medium strong saturation, with typical surface reaching inclusions, evidence of color banding, cavities and fissures. The drop-shaped sapphires are well matched in color, with typical inclusions.
Estimated total diamond weight approximately 15.00 – 18.00 carats, estimated color G-I, estimated clarity VS, as gauged and graded in the mount.
LOT 191 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, 1960S – with an estimate of GBP 22,000 – 32,000 (USD 31,473 – 45,779) is the third most valued sapphire lot of the sale. Ring size K ½ platinum ring is claw-set with an oval-cut sapphire flanked by three marquise-shaped diamonds on either side, set on the shoulders of the ring.
Top highlight among Emerald Lots and the 4th most valued lot of the sale is LOT 374 – PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS – with an estimate of GBP 45,000 – 65,000 (USD 64,377 – 92,989). Each of the detachable drop-shaped emeralds with brilliant-cut diamond cap is suspended from a surmount composed of a cluster of brilliant-cut, pear-, and marquise-shaped diamonds with clip and retractable post fittings.
GRS report no. GRS2017-086707, states that the emeralds are of Zambian origin, natural, insignificant/minor clarity enhancement, estimated to weigh 58.38 carats in total (indicated by the client), measuring approximately 25.00 x 14.20 x 12.01 and 25.00 x 14.47 x 11.68 mm. Emeralds green, transparent, typical eye visible inclusions, some are surface reaching, some fractures running along surface, light surface wear and few scratches.
Diamonds are bright and lively. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 10.89 carats, as stated by the vendor. Estimated clarity approximately SI2/I1, some with fractures. Estimated color approximately I-J. Light surface scratches to metal surfaces. Clips with medium tension, one retractable post with some light play. Total gross weight approximately 25.7 grams
Other significant Emerald Lots include Lots 295 and 373
LOT 295 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING –with an estimate of GBP 35,000 – 45,000 (USD 50,071 – 64,377) is another emerald highlight of the sale. Ring size L ½, 18k white gold ring, the shank stamped with British hallmark and 750 for 18 carat gold, is collet-set with a rectangular step-cut emerald, flanked by three tiers of baguette-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring
GCS report no. 78154-06, states that the emerald measuring 22.6 x 10.2 x 7.2 mm and calculated to weigh approximately 12.30 carats is of Colombian origin, with evidence of minor clarity enhancement. The Emerald is medium-light green in color, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye and minor chips to facet edges.
The diamonds are bright and lively, estimated total diamond weight approximately 0.50-0.80 carats. Gross weight approximately 8.5 grams.
LOT 373 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – with estimate of GBP 30,000 – 50,000 (USD 42,918 – 71,530) is another emerald highlight of the sale. Ring size M, 18k white gold ring, with shank stamped 18K and with maker’s mark, is claw-set with a cabochon emerald, highlighted by a row of brilliant-cut diamonds and half-moon-shaped diamonds, on the shoulders of the ring.
GRS report no. GRS2017-076607, states that the emerald is of Zambia origin, natural, insignificant clarity enhancement, weighing 28.01, indicated by the client. Measuring approximately 20.10 x 16.31 x 13.03 mm. The Emerald is mid green in color, transparent/semi-translucent, typical eye visible inclusions, some are surface reaching, light surface wear to stone surface.
The Diamonds are bright and lively, estimated total diamond weight approximately 1.61 carats, as stated by the vendor. Estimated clarity SI1/SI2. Gross weight approximately 14.5 grams
Top highlight of the Ruby Lots and the 9th most valued lot of the sale is LOT 300 – RUBY, ONYX AND DIAMOND PENDENT NECKLACE, “MADONNA OF PORT LLIGAT”, SALVADOR DALI with an estimate of GBP 26,000 – 30,000 (USD 37,196 – 42,918). The pendant designed as an oval-shaped plaque with scrolled sides is set with polished gray/black onyx in the lower-half, and semi-circular rows of round brilliant-cut diamonds around Madonna’s figure in the upper-half. calibré-cut rectangular and rhomboidal shaped rubies are bezel set on yellow gold on the upper and lower edges of the plaque, and round brilliant-cut diamonds similarly set on the side edges of the plaque. The centre of the plaque is occupied by an abstract textured figure of the Madonna of Port Lligat with arms outstretched, and an open door in her chest. The reverse of the pendant is signed Dali, partially signed Octavio Sarda, stamped D.M.I., numbered 39098674, 02-032-15-103 and with edition number A-3/3.
The pendant is suspended by two yellow gold hooks on either side of the upper edge of the plaque, connected to a bi-colored fancy-link neck-chain, 55 cm (21.7 ins) in length.
The lot is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Exmundart, numbered 02 032 15 103 and 45924 NOX 73233 3/3. Chain with additional cartouche with openwork Dali signature.
Diamonds are bright and lively, estimated total diamond weight approximately 5.50 – 6.50 carats. Rubies are deep pinkish-red, transparent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, some surface-reaching. Onyx black, opaque. Pendant measuring approximately 56 x 38 mm. Gross weight approximately 102 grams.
Other significant Ruby Lots include Lots 314 and 371.
LOT 314 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of GBP 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 28,612 – 42,918) is another ruby highlight of the sale. Ring size N, 18k yellow gold ring, with French assay and maker’s mark, is claw-set with a 5.50-carat oval-cut ruby as centerpiece, highlighted by a two-tiered brilliant-cut diamond surround and the shoulders of the ring also set with brilliant-cut diamonds;
GCS, report no. 78129-84, states that the ruby is natural, with no indications of heating with moderate amount of oil in fissures and origin opinion Myanmar (Burma). Dimensions of ruby approximately 13.2 x 8.6 x 5.0 mm, weighing approximately 5.50 carats. Ring shank stamped to outside with French assay marks for 18 carat gold and maker’s mark Ste (snowflake) E, who also worked for Van Cleef & Arpels. Collet stamped R. 5.75, OR and 750. Ruby mid red, transparent, with typical eye visible inclusions, some surface reaching, very minor fractures and chips, one cavity visible to pavilion. Diamonds bright and lively, estimated total diamond weight approximately 4.00-4.50 carats.
LOT 371 – RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET – with estimate of GBP 14,000 – 18,000 (USD 20,028 – 25,751) is another ruby highlight of the sale. The 18.5 cm (7.3 ins) long bracelet is of scroll design in the center, the central scroll set with brilliant-cut, single-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, bounded on either side by two arc-shaped scrolls, collet-set with five cushion-cut and pear-cut rubies. The two linear segments on either side of the central scroll are set with two rows of diamonds, an outer baguette-cut row and a middle single-cut row and an outer collet-set cushion-cut and circular-cut row of five rubies. The order of the three rows are reversed on the two linear segments. The clasps on either side of the bracelet are set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
CISGEM, report no. 9552, states that two rubies were analyzed as natural, with no indications of heating, origin opinion Myanmar (Burma). Central diamond estimated to weigh approximately 1.30 – 1.50 carats, estimated to be approximately J/K color, SI2-I1 clarity, as graded within the limitations of the mount. Estimated color-grade of diamonds approximately I-K color, mixed clarity grades, VS-SI on average, as graded within the limitations of the mount. Estimated total diamond weight excluding the central diamond approximately 8.00 – 10.00 carats.
Rubies various shades of purplish-red, transparent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye and under magnification, some inclusions surface reaching, some with typical color zoning, one with very pronounced color zoning. Rubies various shapes, measuring between 4.8 x 5.3 x 4.2 mm and weighing approximately 1.00 carats and 8.2 x 7.2 x 3.2 mm, weighing approximately 1.90 carats. Bracelet detaching via pin fittings. Clasp secure. Gross weight approximately 68 grams.
NATURAL PEARL LOTS
Some of the Natural Pearl Lots include Lots 190, 220 and Lot No. 01.
LOT 190 – NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of GBP 7,000 – 10,500 (USD 10,014 – 15,021) is one of the natural pearl highlights. Ring size J, white metal ring is set with two button shaped natural pearls, with diameters of approximately 10.6 mm and 10.8 mm respectively, and the shoulders collet-set with circular-cut diamonds.
French Gemological Laboratory, LFG report no. 330965, states that the two pearls were found to be natural, saltwater and half-drilled. The pearls are button-shaped with diameters of approximately 10.6 mm and 10.8 mm respectively, with white to cream body color, good lustre and one with green and rose overtones, the other with rose and orange overtones. Both with areas of pitting, mild banding, scratches and some areas of light crazing to nacre, one with a larger pit, visible to one side.
Diamonds are bright and lively, estimated to be SI clarity on average with estimated total weight of approximately 0.50 – 0.70 carats. The shank shows evidence of resizing and soldering. Gross weight approximately 6 grams.
LOT 220 – NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH – with an estimate of GBP 6,000 – 8,000 (USD 8,584 – 11,445) is another natural pearl lot of the sale. The yellow gold bar brooch of overall dimensions of 6.4 x 3.8 cm, the brooch bar and pin with Dutch assay mark for 583 standard gold, pin with additional maker’s mark H&G, is designed as a spider, its abdomen set with a natural pearl measuring 13.9 x 12.8 x 9. 8 mm, the eyes set with single-cut diamonds, the four pairs of jointed legs and pair of antenna made of yellow gold.
GCS report no. 77110-33, states that the pearl measuring 13.9 x 12.8 x 9.8 mm, is natural and saltwater. The body color of the pearl is white, with green and rosé overtones, good lustre, ovoid, of slightly button shape, with areas of banding and pitting to nacre, one larger pit to reverse just visible behind mounting. Diamond eyes bright and lively. Pin fitting secure. Gross weight approximately 11 grams.
LOT 001 – NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of GBP 5,500 – 6,500 (USD 7,868 – 9,299) is another natural pearl lot in the sale. The 45.5 cm (17.9 ins), Princess length necklace, is composed of a single strand of graduated natural pearls varying in diameter from 3.0 to 7.1 mm, with a millegrain-set circular-cut diamond clasp behind.
GCS report no. 77111-07, states that the pearls measuring between 3.0-7.1 mm diameter are natural, and saltwater. Pearls are of cream body color, with green and rose overtones, mostly near-spherical, some slightly ovoid or button shaped. Some areas of nacre with visible pitting, banding and crazing.
Diamond in clasp estimated to weigh approximately 0.90 – 1.10 carats, estimated to be I-J color, SI clarity, as graded within the limitations of the mount. Clasp closing securely with additional safety chain. Gross weight approximately 14 grams.