Sotheby’s Geneva Live Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale is due to be held in Geneva on Wednesday, 11th November 2020. A total of 103 lots will be on offer at the sale, consisting of iconic designs from the world’s most prestigious jewelry houses, such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Mauboussin, Bulgari, Harry Winston, Graff and others, and featuring a variety of jewelry such as parures, demi-parures, and single jewelry lots including necklaces, rings, earrings, earclips. brooches, bracelets, tiaras etc.
Top lot of the sale is Lot 191 – IMPORTANT DIAMOND RING – with a pre-sale estimate of CHF1,195,000 – 1,375,000 (USD1,324,482 – 1,523,985). The size 50 platinum ring, stamped PT950 for platinum, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped, Type IIa, D-Color, Flawless, diamond with excellent polish and symmetry, with dimensions of 18.07 x 14.79 x 9.49 mm and weighing 18.03 carats.
The next most valued lot of the sale is a fancy colored diamond necklace by Harry Winston, assigned Lot No. 196 and titled IMPORTANT FANCY COLOURED DIAMOND NECKLACE, with an estimate of CHF 825,000 – 1,375,000 (USD 914,741 – 1,524,568). The 37 cm platinum necklace signed Harry Winston, is a single-strand necklace, composed of a line of variously cut fancy colored diamonds, weighing from 0.78 to 1.30 carats, alternating with brilliant-cut diamonds. The Lot is accompanied by thirty-one GIA reports, stating that the diamonds are Fancy Colored, Natural Color.
The Necklace, signed HARRY WINSTON, has French assay marks and is stamped PT950 for platinum. Total weight of Fancy colored diamonds is 32.21 carats, with clarity grades SI-I, as gauged and graded in the mount. The remaining brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 6.00 – 7.00 carats, with average color-grade of F-G colour, and clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mount.
The third highest valued lot of the sale is LOT 194 – IMPORTANT DIAMOND PENDANT – with an estimate of CHF 750,000 – 1,000,000 (USD 831,265 – 1,108,353). The pendant, stamped 750 for 18k gold, is claw-set on 18k white gold with a pear-shaped diamond weighing 102.41 carats.
GIA report no. 6213086337, accompanying the Lot states that the diamond is S to T Range, Light Brown Color and VVS2 Clarity.
LOT 176 – MAGNIFICENT EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE, CIRCA 1770 – is another highlight of the sale with an estimate of CHF 642,000 – 920,000 (USD 711,563 – 1,019,685), with a historical provenance, formerly part of the collection of Manuel de Guirior y Portal de Huarte y Edozain, First Marquis de Guirior. Viceroy of New Granada (1773-1776) and Viceroy of Peru (1776-1780). Gifted by Manuel de Guirior y Portal, the Viceroy of New Granada and later Peru, to this wife, Dona Maria Ventura de Guirior y Otazu, this exquisite parure is therefore referred to as the Virreina Suite in the family archives.
The parure consists of a necklace, a pair of pendant earrings and a pair of brooches. a necklace of floral and foliate design in closed-back settings, collet-set with three step-cut emeralds highlighted with oval and circular-cut emeralds, single- and circular-cut diamonds, supporting a pear-shaped emerald weighing 11.94 carats, to a velvet black ribbon, the front of the necklace measuring approximately 190mm,
The pair of girandole pendent ear clips are set with oval, cushion- and pear-shaped emeralds and cushion-shaped diamonds also in closed-back settings.
The two brooches are also of similar design with closed back settings.
Another significant Parure lot, is LOT 181 – IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PARURE, 1960S AND LATER, with an estimate of CHF 500,000 – 800,000 (USD 547,798 – 876,477). The Parure consists of a Necklace, with two detachable segments that can be used either to extend the length of the necklace or worn as an additional bracelets and a pair of earrings.
The Necklace of length 38 cm, extendable to 46 cm or 54 cm with two detachable segments, is set on its lower half, with rosettes centered around cabochon sapphires highlighted by round brilliant-cut diamonds. The largest rosette set as the centerpiece and three smaller rosettes set on either side of it. The largest rosette is set with a Ceylon cabochon sapphire weighing 89.31 carats. The detachable clasp behind is signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered.
The bracelet of length 17.5 cm is set with a Ceylon cabochon sapphire weighing 93.36 carats, enhanced by brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered.
Each of the Pair of Earrings with detachable ear clip fittings, signed Van Cleef and Arpels and numbered, is set respectively with a cabochon sapphire weighing 15.32 and 16.71 carats, highlighted by brilliant-cut diamonds.
An SSEF report no. 110177, accompanying the lot states that the sapphires weighing 93.36, 89.31, 15.32 and 16.71 carats are of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating and the two larger stones showing weak asterism.
Among the significant Ruby Lots is LOT 115 – GRAFF RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of CHF 320,000 – 500,000 (USD 350,560 – 547,750). The 40 cm length, triple-strand necklace, signed Graff, numbered GN8319 with British Hallmarks and stamped AU750 for 18K gold is composed of ruby beads partially inset with brilliant-cut diamonds, highlighted with similar stones and interspersed by brilliant-cut diamond rondelles. The strands on the rear of the necklace composed mainly of collet-set round brilliant-cut diamonds, interspersed with a few collet-set circular-cut rubies.
Red color of rubies of medium-strong saturation, with typical inclusions and total weight of rubies is approximately 256.00 – 266.00 carats.
Total weight of diamonds approximately 17.40 – 19.40 carats, color-grade H-I colour, and clarity-grade VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
LOT 143 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 295,000 – 385,000 (USD 323,201 – 421,804) is a significant sapphire lot of the sale. The size 51 ring, signed Cartier, with French assay mark for gold, stamped 750 for 18k yellow gold, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 34.19 carats, within a double border of brilliant-cut diamonds.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 110012, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating, together with an appendix letter. Inscription Bts 8.09 on the ring refers to the total carat weight of the brilliant-cut diamonds, which has an average color-grade of G-H and clarity-grade of VS as gauged and graded in the mount.