In a press release dated 30th September 2016, Christie’s has announced the holding of its “Important Jewels” New York auction, on Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at the New York Rockefeller Plaza. A total of 255 lots will be on offer at the auctions, with estimates ranging from under US$ 5,000 to US$ 750,000. The auction will be held in two sessions; the morning session offering lots 1 to 124 starting at 10.00 am and the afternoon session offering lots 125 to 255, starting at 2.00 pm. The lots will be on exhibition at the New York Rockefeller Center from October 14, 2016 to October 17, 2016, viewing times on each day being from 10.00 am to 6.00 pm except on October 17, 2016, when viewing ends at 5.00 pm.
The lots include exceptional colorless and fancy colored diamonds; colored gemstone lots; natural and cultured pearl lots; period jewelry mainly from the Art Deco period; signed jewels from renowned jewelry houses/designers, such as Bulgari, Buccellati, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels; and jewels from the private collection of Robert and Sylvia Olnick (Lots 93-108) and the estate of Julia Meade (Lots 125-133).
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Top Lot of the sale is Lot 246, titled “A Diamond Ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 750,000-950,000. The size 6, platinum ring is claw-set with a cushion brilliant-cut diamond, weighing approximately 22.02 carats. The hoop of the ring is set half way downwards with circular-cut diamonds. GIA report accompanying the lot states that the diamond is H-color (near-colorless), VVS2-clarity, with excellent polish and symmetry.
Another highlight of colorless diamonds is lot 123, titled “A Diamond Ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 350,000-450,000. The size 6, platinum ring is claw-set with a round brilliant-cut diamond weighing approximately 15.04 carats, flanked on either side by a tapered baguette cut diamond mounted on the shoulders of the ring. GIA report accompanying the lot states that the diamond is I-Color, VS1-clarity. with excellent cut, polish and symmetry.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
Among the fancy colored diamond lots, top lot of the sale is Lot 241 – “A Colored Diamond RIng,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 300,000-500,000. The size 6 ring is set with a pear brilliant-cut, light-blue, VS1-clarity diamond, weighing approximately 5.54 carats, within a pave-set, circular-cut, pink diamond surround, mounted in 18k rose gold. Circular-cut pink diamonds also mounted half way down the hoop of the ring. GIA report accompanying the lot states that the 5.54-carat, pear brilliant-cut diamond is natural color, light blue and VS1-clarity.
Another colored diamond highlight is Lot 122 – “A Colored Diamond and Diamond Ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 200,000-300,000. The size 6 ring is set with a cushion, mixed-cut, fancy-intense yellow, VS1-clarity diamond, weighing approximately 15.16 carats, mounted on 18k yellow gold, flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond mounted in platinum. GIA report accompanying the lot states that the 15.16-carat, cushion mixed-cut, diamond is natural color, fancy-intense yellow, VS1-clarity.
Lot 42 – “A Colored Diamond and Diamond Ring” is another colored diamond highlight of the sale, with a pre-sale estimate of USD 150,000-200,000. The 6 1/4 size ring is claw-set with a cut-cornered, square modified brilliant-cut, fancy-intense blue-green diamond mounted on 18k rose gold, weighing approximately 2.03 carats, flanked on either side by a pear brilliant-cut diamond, weighing approximately 0.51 and 0.50 carats, also mounted on 18k rose gold. GIA report accompanying the lot certifies that the 2.03-carat diamond is fancy intense blue-green , natural color and SI2 clarity. Two more reports by GIA certify that the diamonds weighing 0.51 and 0.50 carats are D-color and Internally Flawless clarity.
COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS
Top lot among colored gemstones is Lot 124 – “A Sapphire and Diamond Ring,” with a presale estimate of USD 120,000 to 180,000. The centerpiece of the size 6 3/4, platinum ring is a cushion-cut Ceylon blue sapphire, weighing approximately 19.90 carats, highlighted by a circular-cut and triangular-cut diamond surround. AGL report accompanying the lot states that the origin of the sapphire would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka), with no gemological evidence of heat or clarity enhancement.
Another colored gemstone lot is Lot 249 – “An Emerald and Diamond Ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 70,000-100,000. The size 7 1/4 ring with an 18k bicolored gold shank is set with a rectangular-cut emerald weighing approximately 7.46 carats, flanked on either side by a marquise-cut diamond. AGL report accompanying the lot states that the origin of the emerald would be classified as classic Columbia, with minor clarity enhancement, which is confirmed by an SSEF report that states the emerald is of Colombia origin, with indications of clarity modification by minor oil treatment.
Lot 84 is another colored gemstone and diamond lot, titled,”A Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Necklace,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 60,000-80,000. The pendant necklace with a 16 ins long V-shaped neckchain, set with three rows of circular-cut diamonds, mounted on platinum, has a 1 7/8 in detachable pendant suspended from it. The centerpiece of the pendant is an oval-cut, Ceylon blue sapphire weighing 20.24 carats, highlighted by a two-tier circular-cut and pear-shaped diamond surround, with a fringe of pear-shaped diamonds, the central fringe being made up of a circular-cut and pear-shaped diamond. The length of neckchain can be reduced to 15 ins if necessary. AGL report accompanying the lot states that the origin of the sapphire would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka),with no gemological evidence of heat or clarity enhancement.
Lot 226 is also a significant colored gemstone lot, titled, “A Set of Sapphire, Multi-Colored Sapphire and Diamond Jewelry,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 35,000-55,000. The set consists of a necklace and a matching pair of earclips. The 15 1/4 ins. necklace is designed as a graduated series of 35 oval and cushion-cut multi-colored sapphires, including varieties of blue, purple and pink, ranging in weight from 1.22 to 3.86 carats. Each sapphire is enhanced by a marquise-cut diamond detail, consisting of three marquise-cut diamonds arranged as a trefoil in the lower 15 sapphires of the necklace and made up of a single marquise-cut diamond in the remaining sapphires. The sapphires on the necklace are spaced by marquise-cut diamond trefoil cluster links.
Each of the matching pair of earclips, 1-inch in length, is set with a cushion-cut blue sapphire and oval-cut pink sapphire, with three marquise-cut sapphires arising upwards from the point where the two sapphires meet, and a bunch of five marquise-cut sapphires hanging down from the same point. The weight of the sapphires range from 1.50 to 2.39 carats. The sapphires and diamonds are mounted in platinum and 18k gold. 36 reports issued by GIA and two reports by AGL, state that 35 sapphires and multi-colored sapphires in the necklace and three of the multi-colored sapphires in the earclips show no gemological evidence of heat enhancement. One report by the GIA state that the purplish-pink sapphire, weighing 2.39 carats, in the earclips shows evidence of clarity enhancement.
NATURAL AND CULTURED PEARL LOTS
Top lot among the natural and cultured pearl lots is Lot 117 – “A Natural Pearl and Diamond Lariat Necklace,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 40,000-60,000. The 14 1/2 ins. platinum necklace, has a graduated collet-set, circular-cut diamond neckchain, with a single and baguette-cut diamond ribbbon panel, suspending two semi-baroque white and light gray natural pearl drops, with dimensions of 11.78 x 10.80 mm and 11.90 x 10.95 mm, and each pearl drop having a rose-cut diamond caps. GIA report accompanying the lot states that the pearls are natural saltwater pearls with no indications of treatment.
Lot 87 is “A Cultured Pearl Necklace” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 20,000-30,000. The 36 ins. necklace is by definition a “rope” necklace. The necklace is composed of a single strand of 54 cultured pearls, with diameter varying from 14.70 mm to 17.00 mm, joined by an 18k white gold boule clasp.
Lot 197 is another natural pearl lot, titled, “A Belle Époque Single-Strand Natural Pearl Necklace,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 20,000-30,000. The 17 1/2 ins. necklace falling within the category of a “Princess” necklace, was designed during the Belle Époque period, around the year 1910. The necklace is designed as a graduated strand of seventy-one natural pearls, varying in diameter from 3.85 mm to 9.40 mm. The platinum clasp behind is collet-set with baguette-cut and old-cut diamonds. SSEf report accompanying the lot confirm that the pearls are natural and of saltwater origin.
Lot 164 is a cultured pearl lot, titled, “A Three-Strand Gray Cultured Pearl And Diamond Necklace,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 20,000-30,000. The three strand necklace from the innermost strand outwards, consist of 58, 61 and 66 graduated gray cultured pearls, varying in diameter from 8.00 mm to 11.00 mm. The three strands are joined in the rear of the necklace to an 18k white gold clasp, set with circular-cut diamonds. Length of the shortest strand is 25 ins. falling within the category of an “Opera” necklace.
Lot 194 is an antique piece created around year 1880. The lot titled, “An Antique Diamond and Seed Pearl Necklace,” has a pre-sale estimate of USD 18,000-22,000. The old and rose-cut diamond front chain of the necklace suspends a graduated fringe of old and rose-cut diamonds, each terminating in a seed pearl. The rose-cut diamond backchain is joined to the front chain by a rose-cut diamond hoop. The diamonds are mounted in silver topped gold.
Top lot among the period jewelry is Lot 255 – An Art Deco Diamond Bracelet, by Cartier, with a pre-sale estimate of USD 200,000-300,000. The 7 1/4 ins. platinum and 18k gold bracelet, signed Cartier, Paris, No.0123, was designed by Cartier, during the Art Deco Period in 1923, as a wide, old and single-cut diamond, pierced band of ‘fleurette’ design. The lot is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Cartier and a Cartier red leather case.
Lot 116 is another Art Deco signed piece of jewelry by J. E. Caldwell & Co. titled, “An Art Deco Diamond Bracelet, By J. E. Caldwell,” designed around 1925, with a pre-sale estimate of USD 100,000-150,000. The 7 5/16 ins. platinum bracelet, designed as an openwork diamond band is made up of three segments. Each segment has a central line of 5 marquise-shaped diamonds, spaced by baguette-cut diamonds, which extends on either side up to the baguette-cut diamond border, by the mounting of pear-shaped diamonds, that divides the segment into five compartments, at the center of which the marquise-cut diamond is situated. At the line where two segments meet, a central marquise-shaped diamond is mounted, with six baguette-cut diamonds in two rows, being situated on either side of the marquise-cut diamond. The bracelet is signed J. E. C & Co.with the no. Z 449 appearing on it.
Lot 253 is another significant Art Deco piece, titled.”An Art Deco Enamel And Diamond Chinoiserie Bracelet, By Verger Freres,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 30,000-50,000. The 7-inch bracelet designed around the year 1920, as an articulated black enamel band, with each segment accented by gold images of Chinoiserie motif, joined by rose-cut diamond links, centering upon a reversible, pierced, rectangular,single-cut diamond plaque. Red enamel used on the reverse of the bracelet with each segment accented by gold images of floral motif. Metasl used on the bracelet 18k yellow-gold and platinum.
Lot 247 is another Art Deco signed piece by Charlton, titled, “An Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Emerald Brooch, by Charlton,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 12,000-18,000. The 2 3/8 inch platinum brooch, signed Charlton, No. 28800, is designed as a jeweled sheathed dagger, The sheath is mainly pave-set with old and single-cut colorless diamonds, with a line of equally spaced, circular-cut, four blue sapphires prong-set at the center, bordered by collet-set circular-cut emeralds and collet-set baguette-cut colorless diamonds on either side of the central blue sapphires. The handle is pave-set with old and single-cut colorless diamonds, and bezel-set with baguette-cut diamonds.
Lot 26 is a bangle bracelet designed in the 1940s during the Retro period. The lot titled, “A Retro Citrine, Diamond And Gold Bangle Bracelet,” has a pre-sale estimate of USD 15,000-20,000. The 2 1/8 inch diameter, 18k gold bangle bracelet is designed as a polished gold hinged bangle, of overlapping ribbon design, one terminal set with three large rectangular-cut citrines and four tiny circular-cut colorless diamonds, and the other terminal set with several circular-cut colorless diamonds.
SIGNED JEWELS FROM FAMOUS JEWELRY HOUSES/DESIGNERS
Top among the signed jeweled lots is a lot by Tiffany & Co. assigned Lot No.119 and titled, “A Diamond Lucida Ring by Tiffany & Co.,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 170,000-200,000. The size 6 platinum ring is set with a Tiffany Lucida diamond, a cut-cornered square mixed-cut diamond, with 50 facets, with a small table and brilliant pavilion, weighing 5.01 carats. The Lucida Diamond Cut and its four-prong setting is patented by Tiffany & Co. The patent numbers are engraved on the inside of the shank. The patent nos. on this ring are 5970744 and 18814242. The special Lucida-cut maximizes the diamond’s sparkle and brilliance. GIA report accompanying the lot states that the 5.01-carat, Lucida-cut diamond is D-color and Internally Flawless clarity.
Lot 110 is a signed lot by Van Cleef & Arpels, titled,”A Pair of Ruby and Diamond Ear Pendants, by Van Cleef & Arpels, with a pre-sale estimate of USD 60,000-80,000. The 2 inches long ear pendants have a detachable pendant, centering upon an oval-cut ruby, weighing 4.66 and 3.58 carats, highlighted by a two-tiered surround of circular-cut diamonds, each suspending five pear-shaped diamond fringes. The surmount from which the detachable pendants are suspended, are of matching design, centering upon an oval-cut ruby, weighing 1.52 and 1.50 carats, highlighted by four circular-cut diamonds above and three pear-shaped diamonds below. The rubies are mounted on 18k yellow gold and the colorless diamonds mounted on platinum. The lot is signed Van Cleef & Arpels with No. M37513. Two Lab reports by AGL in respect of rubies weighing 4.66 carats and 3.58 carats, state that the rubies are of Burma origin, with standard heat enhancement and minor clarity enhancement. Two other AGL reports in respect of rubies weighing 1.52 and 1.50 carats, sstate that the rubies are of Burma origin, with no gemological evidence of heat enhancement.
Lot 121 is “An Emerald And Diamond Sautoir, By David Webb,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 50,000-70,000. The 29 1/2 inch (75 cms.) long platinum necklace consists of a neckchain suspending a plaque, both of openwork geometric design. The openwork kite-shaped plaque is set with circular-cut diamonds, with a trefoil of three marquise-shaped diamonds occupying the center of the plaque, and a large pear-shaped cabochon emerald set just below the trefoil. A small circular-cut diamond and a second smaller cabochon emerald drop is suspended from the larger emerald.
The neck chain is an openwork geometric link chain, consisting of six repeated units of an openwork linked octagon and kite set with circular-cut diamonds, on each side of the suspended plaque. Each linked octagon and kite unit is seperated by an oval-shaped emerald, except at the point where the first such unit is directly linked to the suspended plaque. Thus, there are six oval-shaped emeralds placed on either side of the suspended plaque. The clasp behind is an openwork octagon set with circular-cut diamonds and three oval-shaped emeralds in the center. The necklace is signed Webb for David Webb.
Lot 235 is another stunning piece by Prince Dimitri, titled, “A Colored Sapphire Neklace by Prince Dimitri,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 40,000-60,000. The fringe necklace consists of a 15 1/4 inch (38.7 cm), 18k gold link neckchain from which 25 fringes arise – one median fringe and 12 fringes on either side of the median fringe. Each fringe is made up of faceted pink sapphire beads, the number of beads gradually increasing from the upper fringes towards the median fringe. Each fringe ends with an 18k gold pebble-shaped collet terminal, set on one side with variously shaped colored sapphires, including varieties of pink, red, orange and purple, ranging from 0.86 carats to 4.20 carats, and an oval-cut ruby weighing 0.83 carats, with colored sapphire detail of various designs on the reverse. Two AGL reports certify that the purple sapphires weighing 1.41 and 1.25 carats show no evidence of heat enhancement. A GGL report accompanying the lot certify that the 2.34 carat orange Padparadscha sapphire show no indications of heat treatment.
Lot 12 is a signed piece by Buccellati titled, “A Diamond and Gold Bangle Bracelet, by Buccellati,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 20,000-30,000. The 2 1/4 inch, 18k white gold and 18k yellow gold bangle bracelet, is designed as a hinged bracelet, set with an openwork circular-cut diamond and 18k white gold scroll, bordered on either side, by textured 18k yellow gold trim. The bangle bracelet is signed Buccellati, Italy.
Another stunning signed piece is a watch bracelet, assigned Lot No. 28 and titled, “A Star Ruby, Ruby And Diamond Watch Bracelet, By Vacheron & Constantin,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 15,000-20,000. The 7 inch 18k yellow gold bracelet, is designed as a row of five graduated round links, the largest placed at the center, and links of similar size placed symmetrically on either side. Each round link centers upon a cabochon star ruby or cabochon ruby within a circular-cut diamond and ruby two-tiered frame. The large central link opens to reveal a white circular watch dial with gold hands. The five round links are joined together by circular and single-cut diamond X-shaped links, whose center is occupied by a floret of a circular-cur ruby and six circular-cut diamonds. The watch movement, case and dial are signed Vacheron & Constantin.
Lot 47, 49 and 66 are three stunning bangle bracelets created by the renowned French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987), when he was the Chief designer for Tiffany & Co. Lot 47, is “An Enamel And Diamond Bangle Bracelet, By Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 30,000-40,000. The 2 1/4 inch (5.7 cm) diameter, 18k yellow gold and white enamel bangle bracelet is designed as a white enamel hinged bangle, decorated with collet-set circular-cut colorless diamonds, and sculpted 18k yellow gold bands. The bangle bracelet is signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger, France.
Lot 49 is another enamel and diamond bangle bracelet created by Jean Schlumberger, titled,”An Enamel And Diamond Bangle Bracelet, By Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & C0.,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 30,000-40,000. The 2 1/4 inch (5.7 cm.) diameter, enameled 18k yellow gold bangle bracelet, is designed as an orange enameled hinged bangle, decorated with collet-set circular-cut colorless diamonds, and sculpted 18k yellow gold bands. The bangle is signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger, France.
lot 66 is another stunning bangle bracelet by Jean Schlumberger, titled,”A Lapis Lazuli, Diamond And Gold Bangle Bracelet, By Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & C0.,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 30,000-50,000. The 2 1/4 inch (5.7 cm.) diameter,18k yellow gold hinged bangle braacelet, is designed as a series of reeded lapis lazuli, alternating with bombé-form circular-cut diamond and polished gold spacers. The bangle is Signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger STD, France, no. 31895367.
Lot 133 is a signed piece by David Webb,titled,”A Diamond, Ruby, Enamel And Gold Compact, By David Webb,” with a pre-sale estimate of USD 15,000-20,000. The 3 1/8 inch, 18k yellow gold compact is designed as a Lion’s Paw Scallop Shell. The top designed as radiating sculpted gold bands alternating with radiating regions pave-set with circular-cut colorless diamonds. The bottom designed of sculpted gold with white enamel lip, set with cabochon-cut rubies. The central cabochon ruby acts as a pushpiece, opening to reveal a fitted mirror and hinged compartment. Designed around the year 1970 and signed David Webb.