Sotheby’s New York Fine Jewels Sale, the first autumn jewelry sale for 2017 will be held at their New York Auction Center on October 17, 2017. The auction will be held in two sessions, the First Session starting at 10.00 AM EDT offering Lot 1 to 159 and the Second Session starting at 2.00 PM EDT offering Lot 160 to 308. The auction will be preceded by exhibition of the lots from Friday, October 13, 2017 to Monday, October 16, 2017, viewing times being 10.00 AM to 5.00 PM EDT each day except on Sunday, October 15, 2017 when the viewing times will be from 1.00 PM to 5.00 PM EDT.
A total of 308 lots will be on offer at the auction, which includes a variety of signed jewels from several notable estates. Vintage and contemporary pieces from renowned makers such as Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier are offered alongside mid-century designs from Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin and Marianne Ostier. The lots also include an impressive array of classic white diamond and colored stone rings in a variety of shapes and sizes.
Two significant lots that will be on offer at the auction are two cocktail rings from the Collection of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, being sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF). Sotheby’s New York had been previously involved in the sale of magnificent jewels from the collections of Estée Lauder and Evelyn H. Lauder, also sold to benefit the BCRF.
BCRF is the highest rated breast cancer organization in the U.S., with BCRF-funded investigators deeply involved in every major breakthrough in breast cancer prevention, diagnosis, treatment and survivorship.
WHITE/COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Top lot of the sale based on pre-sale estimates is Lot 262 – DIAMOND RING, TIFFANY & CO. with an estimate of USD 200,000 – 300,000. Ring size 7¼, platinum ring, signed Tiffany & Co. is claw-set with a D-color, VVS2 clarity, round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 5.06 carats, flanked on either side by a baguette-cut diamond on the shoulders of the ring.
GIA report no. 2183243033, accompanying the lot, states that the diamond is D color, and VVS2 clarity. Estimated total weight of baguette-cut diamonds approximately 0.30 carat, average color-grade E to F color and clarity-grade VVS, as gauged and graded in the mount.
Other significant white/colorless diamonds lots include Lots 104, 299 and 294.
LOT 104 – DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 120,000 – 150,000 is another white diamond lot of the sale. Ring size 8¼, iridium-platinum alloy ring, inscribed 10% IRID PLAT on the interior of the shank, is claw-set with a D-color, Internally Flawless clarity, round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.71 carats, flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond.
GIA report no. 2155764362, accompanying the lot, states that the round brilliant diamond weighing 3.71 carats and measuring 10.10 x 10.15 x 5.95 mm is D color, Internally Flawless clarity, with Excellent Cut. The baguette diamonds are approximately E-F color and VVS-VS clarity.
LOT 299 – DIAMOND RING – is another white diamond lot from a Family Collection, with an estimate of USD 110,000 – 150,000. Ring size 5¾, white metal ring is claw-set with a rectangular emerald-cut, E-color, VVS1 clarity diamond weighing 6.24 carats, accented by round and French-cut diamonds on the shoulders and upper hoop of the ring.
GIA report no. 1186655980, accompanying the lot, states that the diamond is E color and VVS1 clarity, together with the original working diagram stating that the diamond may be potentially Internally Flawless. The round and French-cut diamonds are approximately G-H color and VVS-VS clarity.
LOT 294 – DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 100,000 – 150,000 from the estate of Frances Macdonald is another significant white diamond lot. Ring size 6½, 18k white gold ring stamped 750 on the interior of the shank is set with a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, J-color, SI-1 clarity diamond weighing 10.96 carats.
GIA report no. 110189932524, accompanying the lot, states that the diamond is J color, SI-1 clarity.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
Significant colored diamond lots include Lots 128, 282, 275 and 228.
LOT 128 – FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 110,000 – 130,000 is the highest valued colored diamond lot of the sale. Ring size 6½, platinum and 18k yellow gold ring, stamped PT950 and 750 for platinum and gold respectively, is claw-set on 18k yellow gold, with a cut-cornered square step-cut, fancy intense yellow, natural color, Internally Flawless clarity diamond weighing 6.04 carats, flanked on either side with a tapered baguette-cut diamond on the shoulders of the ring.
GIA report no. 2173459131, accompanying the lot, states that the 6.04 carat diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Color and Internally Flawless clarity. Estimated total weight of baguette-cut diamonds approximately 0.30 carat; average color-grade F color and clarity-grade VVS, as gauged and graded n the mount.
LOT 282 – COLORED DIAMOND, COLORED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, REPOSSI – with an estimate of USD 100,000 – 150,000, is another colored diamond lot of the sale. Ring size 6, 18k yellow gold ring, partially signed Repossi, the letter “R” having been rubbed off, with Italian assay mark for 18 karat gold and registry mark for Alessandria, is set with a round diamond of yellow hue measuring approximately 16.4 x 16.4 x 9.9 mm, flanked by two pear-shaped diamonds of yellow hue, framed and accented by calibré-cut yellow sapphires and diamonds.
The round diamond of yellow hue weighs approximately 16.00 carats and has an approximate clarity of VS. The pear-shaped diamonds of yellow hue weigh a total of approximately 8.00 carats and have an average clarity of approximately VVS-VS. The numerous baguette yellow sapphires are a medium slightly brownish-yellow color and eye-clean. The numerous baguette diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.90 carats are H-I color, VS-SI clarity.
LOT 275 – PAIR OF DIAMOND AND COLORED DIAMOND EARCLIPS, REPOSSI – with an estimae of USD 90,000 – 110,000 is another colored diamond lot of the sale. This lot is from the Collection of Danielle Steel. The 18k yellow and white gold Earclips, each 1 1/2 ins. in length are of floral design, signed Repossi, and stamped with maker’s workshop and French assay marks for 18 karat gold, have as their centerpiece a pear-shaped diamond, which is Fancy Intense Yellow, in one earclip and Fancy Yellow in the other, and weighing 6.95 and 6.73 carats respectively, with areas accented exclusively with either round near colorless diamonds or diamonds of yellow hue. Round near-colorless diamonds have an approximate total weight of 4.80 carats, with an average color-grade of F to G color and clarity-grade of VVS to VS. Round diamonds of yellow hue have a total approximate weight of 3.85 carats, with a deep-yellow hue and average clarity of VS.
GIA report no. 6187673505, accompanying the lot, states that the 6.95 carat pear-shaped diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Color and SI-1 clarity. Second GIA report no. 2185673508, states that the 6.73 carat pear-shaped diamond is Fancy Yellow, Natural Color and SI-1 clarity.
LOT 228 – PAIR OF FANCY YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND EARRINGS – with an estimate of USD 90,000 – 110,000 is another colored diamond lot of the sale. Each of the pair of pendant earrings, suspends a matching fancy yellow pear-shaped diamond, weighing respectively 4.08 and 4.05 carats, claw-set on 18k yellow gold and a surmount consisting of a lower marquise-shaped diamond, middle oval-shaped diamond and three pear-shaped diamonds at the top, mounted on 18k white gold.
The lot is accompanied by 12 GIA reports one for each diamond. GIA Reports Nos. 1152777796 and 1213086903 in respect of diamonds weighing 4.08 and 4.05 carats state that both pear-shaped diamonds are Fancy Yellow, Natural Color and VS2 clarity.
EMERALD LOTS
Highlightd of emerald lots include Lots 71, 276 and 263.
LOT 71 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 130,000 – 180,000 is the 2nd most valued and the highest valued colored gemstone lot of the sale. Ring size 5¾ platinum ring stamped with French assay and workshop marks, is set with an oval-shaped mixed-cut emerald weighing 7.35 carats, framed and accented by circular-cut diamonds and a pear-shaped diamond on the shouders of the ring.
AGL report no. 1080819 accompanying the lot, states that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with clarity enhancement of the traditional type. The emerald is a medium bluish-green color, slightly included, well-saturated and lively. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 3.85 carats, average color-grade H-I color and clarity-grade VS.
LOT 276 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, REPOSSI – with an estimate of USD 75,000 – 100,000 is another emerald lot from the collection of Daniel Steele. Ring size 6, 18k yellow gold ring, signed Repossi and stamped with Italian assay mark for 18k gold and registry mark for Alessandria, is set with a cut-cornered rectangular-shaped emerald weighing approximately 80.00 carats, the mounting further accented by emeralds and diamonds.
AGL report no. 1086555 accompanying the lot, states that the emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: minor and type: modern. The emerald weighing approximately 80.00 carats is a well saturated, very slightly bluish green and moderately to heavily included. The numerous baguette cut emeralds are a medium to medium-light bluish green color and well-matched. The numerous baguette diamonds weighing in total approximately 1.20 carats are approximately G-H color and VS-SI clarity.
LOT 263 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, TIFFANY & CO – is another lot from a private collection, with an estimate of USD 50,000 – 70,000. Ring size 5¾, platinum and 18k yellow gold ring signed Tiffany & Co, is set with a rectangular-cut emerald weighing 3.20 carats, flanked by baguette-cut and tapered baguette-cut diamonds.
AGL report no. 1085373 accompanying the lot, states that the emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement. The emerald is a lively medium bluish-green color, slightly to moderately included. Also accompanied by Tiffany & Co. Insurance report no. 542716 stating that the emerald weighs 3.20 carats, and diamonds are a total of approximately 0.82 carat, F-G color, VVS1-VS2 clarity.
SAPPHIRE LOTS
Significant sapphire lots include Lots 159 and 57.
LOT 159 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 60,000 – 80,000, from the collection of a private collector from Rhode Island, is the highest valued sapphire lot of the sale. Ring size 5¼, platinum ring is set with an oval-shaped mixed-cut Kashmir blue sapphire, weighing approximately 3.90 carats and measuring approximately 8.40 by 7.70 by 6.75 mm, flanked on either side by a circular-cut colorless diamond on the shoulders of the ring.
AGL report no. 1080995 accompanying the lot, states that the sapphire is of Classic Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. The sapphire is a medium violetish blue, slightly included with minor inclusions visible under 10x magnification. Estimated total weight of the two circular-cut diamonds approximately 1.50 carats, average color-grade I-J color and clarity-grade VS-I clarity.
LOT 57 – MYSTERY-SET SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND CLIP-BROOCH, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – with an estimate of USD 60,000 – 80,000 is another blue sapphire highlight. The brooch of dimensions approximately 1¾ x 1¼ inches, signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered N.Y. 30830, is of floral design, mystery-set with calibré-cut blue sapphires depicting exterior surface of the flower; tapered baguette diamonds depicting interior surface of flower and stalk, and marquise-shaped diamond depicting two leaves.
The sapphires are a richly saturated medium-deep slightly violetish blue, eye-clean to slightly included, with some very minor abrasions visible under 10x magnification. Estimated total weight a total of diamonds approximately 3.30 carats, average color-grade F-G color, and clarity-grade VS clarity.
RUBY LOTS
Highlights of ruby lots include Lots 61 and 125.
LOT 61 – MYSTERY-SET RUBY AND DIAMOND CLIP-BROOCH, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, FRANCE – with a pre-sale estimate of USD 40,000 – 60,000 is the highest value ruby lot of the sale. Length 1⅝ inches, 18k gold and platinum brooch, signed VCA, numbered ML 1490, stamped 750 and PT950 for 18k gold and platinum, with French assay and maker’s marks, is designed as a flower, the petals mystery-set with calibré-cut rubies, the center, leaves and stems decorated by round and baguette diamonds.
The rubies range in color from medium pinkish-red to medium-deep slightly purplish-red, mostly slightly included. The diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.50 carats, are approximately F-G color and VVS-VS clarity.
LOT 125 – RUBY AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of USD 20,000 – 30,000 is another ruby lot of the sale. Ring size 5½, iridium-platinum alloy ring inscribed inscribed 10% IRID on the interior of the shank and numbered 162879, has as its centerpiece an oval-shaped Burma ruby weighing 3.55 carats, and the ballerina mounting highlighted with tapered baguette diamonds.
AGL report no. 1085372, accompanying the lot, states that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The ruby is a perfectly saturated medium slightly purplish-red color, slightly to heavily included, with some surface-reaching inclusions visible under 10x magnification loupe. Estimated weight of baguette diamonds approximately 1.90 carats, average color-grade F-G color and clarity-grade VVS-VS.
NATURAL PEARL LOTS
Some of the natural pearl lots include Lots 94 and 69
LOT 94 – NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT-NECKLACE – the property of a Lady, with an estimate of USD 20,000 – 30,000 is a natural pearl lot of the sale. The pendant of the 16.25 ins (41.275 cm) choker length necklace designed circa 1900, is set with old European, old mine-cut and single-cut diamonds, supporting two semi-baroque drop-shaped natural pearls measuring approximately 11.6 by 10.8 mm and 11.3 by 9.7 mm, suspended from a link-chain set at intervals with rose-cut diamonds, mounted on platinum. The length of the pendant is approximately 2⅞ inches.
GIA report no. 5182206816, accompanying the lot, states that the pearls are natural, saltwater, with no indications of treatment. The partially drilled, semi-baroque drop shaped natural pearls are of white body color, with moderate rose and green overtones, and good skin and luster, minor blemishing, with faint growth marks to the reverse of the larger pearl.
The diamonds in the necklace weigh a total of approximately 6.40 carats; the central diamond, weighing approximately 1.50 carats, is approximately H-I color and I clarity; the remaining diamonds in the pendant are approximately H-K color, SI-I clarity, with a couple M-N color; the rose-cut diamonds in the chain are of decorative quality.
LOT 69 – PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS, HARRY WINSTON – the property of a private collector with an estimate of USD 8,000 – 12,000 is another natural pearl lot of the sale. Platinum Ear-clips of length 1½ inches (3.81 cm) are each set with a lower white and an upper dark gray natural pearl measuring approximately 10.0 to 10.6 mm, embellished with 4 pear-shaped and 6 marquise-shaped diamonds.
The ear-clips are numbered A3529, with maker’s mark for Jacques Timey and PT 950 for platinum. GIA report no. 5181662111, accompanying the lot, states that the four pearls are natural, saltwater; two with modified color. Two pearls are of dark gray body color with moderate aubergine and soft green overtones, good luster, and minute blemishing. Two pearls of creamy white body color with very good skin and luster, well-matched. The diamonds weighing a total of approximately 6.75 carats, are approximately F-G color and VVS-VS clarity.
LOT BENEFITING THE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Two significant lots from the Collection of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, that will be sold at the auction and the proceeds will benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF) are two cocktail rings bearing lot numbers 295 and 296.
LOT 295 – GOLD, ROCK CRYSTAL AND DIAMOND RING, DAVID WEBB – with an estimate of USD 4,000 – 6,000 is the first lot. Ring size 5¾, 18k yellow gold ring signed David Webb and stamped 18K for 18 karat gold, is set with a triangle-shaped rock crystal, accented by baguette and triangle-shaped diamonds. The rock crystal is intact and in very good condition. The diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.45 carat are approximately G-H color, and mostly VS clarity.
LOT 296 – GOLD AND DIAMOND RING, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – is the 2nd lot from the Collection of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer that will benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF), with an estimate of USD 8,000 – 12,000. Ring size 5½, 18k yellow gold ring, signed VCA and numbered 43097, of bombé form was designed around year 1970 and has three rows of round diamonds in the center, accented by gold ropework on either side and foliate motifs further set with round diamonds. Gross weight of the ring approximately 12 dwts.
