Sotheby’s March Fine Jewels spring sale kicks off at their New Bond Street, Mayfair location in London, on March 22, 2017 at 10.30 am. A total of 281 lots will be on offer at the sale, consisting of a variety of jewels such as bracelets, brooches, cuff-links, earrings and ear-clips, necklaces, demi-parures and parures, pendants and pendant brooches, rings and wristwatches. Jewelry made of gold, platinum, silver, white gold, titanium and enamel are set with a variety of gemstones such as diamonds; colored gemstones like emeralds, sapphires, rubies, aquamarine, citrine, garnets, jadeite, kunzite, lapis lazuli, onyx, opal, quartz, tourmaline and turquoise; and organic gems such as corals, conch pearls, natural and cultured pearls, seed pearls and mother-of-pearls. The periods from which these jewelry originate include Art Nouveau (1895-1915), Art Deco (1915-1935), Retro (1935-1950), and Modern/Contemporary (1950s and afterwards).
The lots include 26 pieces by Cartier, 13 pieces by Bulgari, 9 pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, 7 pieces by Pomellato, 3 pieces each by Adler, Chanel and Marina, 2 pieces each by Boucheron, Graff, Piaget and Young Michael and one piece each by several renowned designers such as Rene Boivin, Mario Buccellati, Facchini, Faraone, de Grisogono, Mauboussin, Sterle,Tiffany and Harry Winston. The auction house promises that, with such a broad range of designs by well known designers and jewelry houses, incorporating diamonds, colored gemstones and organic gems and set on a variety of metals such as yellow gold, white gold, platinum, silver, titanium and enamel, there really will be something for everyone to suit his’ or her’s individual taste or personal style.
The Lots will be on display at Sotheby’s Mayfair location from Friday, 17th March 2017 to Tuesday, 21st March,2017. The viewing times of the exhibition will be as follows :-
1. Friday, 17th March, 2017 – 9.00 am to 4.30 pm GMT
2. Sunday, 19th March, 2017 – 12.00 pm to 5.00 pm GMT
3. Monday, 20th March, 2017 – 9.00 am to 7.00 pm GMT
4. Tuesday, 21, March, 2017- 9.00 am to 4.30 pm GMT
Highlights among the diamond lots are Lots 89A, 77 and 114.
Lot 89A with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 50,000 – 70,000 (USD 62,000 – 87,000), titled “Diamond Necklace” is a rivière necklace, designed as a graduated line of oval-cut diamonds, mounted in 18k white gold and of length 41 cm, falling under the category of a choker. Estimated approximate total weight of diamonds 40 to 60 carats, with an approximate range in size from 0.70 carats to 1.50 carats. Color-grade and clarity-grade of diamonds estimated in the mount are approximately G to H and VS respectively.
Lot 77 – with the title “Diamond Ring” is another highlight of the sale with the same estimate as Lot 89A. The size M ring is claw-set with a cushion-shaped brilliant-cut diamond weighing 6.07 carats, with an estimated color-grade of I (near-colorless) and clarity-grade of SI (Slightly Included).
Lot 114 – a “Diamond Ring” has the 5th-highest estimate of the sale priced between GBP 40,000 – 50,000 (USD 49,912 – 62,390). The size J1/2 ring is claw-set with a 7.09-carat, cushion-shaped, J-color, SI-1 clarity diamond , flanked by baguette-cut diamonds on its shoulders.
Lots 115, 151 and 111 are among the top emerald lots of the sale.
Lot 115 titled “Emerald and Diamond Bracelet,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 50,000 – 70,000 (USD 62,000 – 87,000), is a 17.5 cm, 18k white gold bracelet designed as a graduated line of alternating 21 square emerald-cut emeralds and 19 smaller rectangular emerald-cut diamonds. The lot is accompanied by GPL report no. 13764 which states that some of the emeralds are of Colombian origin, some with minor and others with significant clarity enhancement. The medium green emeralds are well matched in color, transparent with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye and an approximate weight of 20.05 carats. Approximate weight of diamonds 4.11 carats, and color and clarity grades of diamonds estimated in the mount are are H to J and VVS to VS respectively.
Lot 151, also a top lot of the sale with the same estimate as Lot 115, is another “Emerald and Diamond Bracelet.” The 18k gold, 18 cm. bracelet is designed as a graduated line of seven cabochon-cut sugar-loaf emeralds and an additional sugar-loaf emerald mounted on the clasp. The seven cabochon sugar-loaf emeralds are set alternately with smaller rectangular step-cut colorless diamonds, between lines of round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds bordering the bracelet. The sugar-loaf emerald on the clasp is also surrounded by a layer of small round brilliant-cut diamonds. The medium green, transparent emeralds with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, has an approximate total weight of 54.52 carats. The diamonds of estimated color and clarity grades of H to J (near-colorless) and VVS to VS (very very slightly included to very slightly included) respectively, has an approximate total weight of 13.81 carats.
Lot 111 – “Pair of emerald and diamond ear clips,” is another emerald highlight of the sale with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 35,000 – 55,000 (USD 43,673 – 68,629). Each of the ear-clips suspends a pear-shaped emerald highlighted by a row of marquise-shaped colorless diamonds, from a cluster surmount of marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. SSEF report no. 89390, accompanying the lot, states that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, medium-dark green, transparent, with moderate oil treatment and typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 6.00-8.00 carats, colour G-I and clarity VVS-VS, as estimated on the mount.
Top among the blue sapphire lots are Lots 121, 73 and 91.
Lot 121 with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 24,000 – 34,000 (USD 29,947 – 42,425) is a Ceylon sapphire lot, titled “Sapphire and Diamond Ring.” The size L ring is claw-set with a cushion-shaped Ceylon blue sapphire framed by a row of small round brilliant–cut diamonds. Diamonds of the same cut and size are also set as accent stones, almost half way down the shank of the ring. AGL report no. CS80141, dated 15 February 2010, certifies that the medium blue sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement, dimensions of 13.76 x 12.10 x 7.96 mm and estimated to weigh 12.41 carats.
Lot 73 is a Burmese sapphire lot, titled “Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Bulgari,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 20,000 – 28,000 (USD 24,956 – 34,938). The size M ring, signed Bulgari, is double claw-set with a 19.84-carat octagonal-cut light blue Burma sapphire, flanked by baguette-cut diamonds on its shoulders. SSEF report no. 73781 accompanying the lot. certifies that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement, light blue in color, transparent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, weighing 19.84 carats and having dimensions of 15.2 x 14.5 x 8.65 mm. Estimated total weight of the baguette-cut diamonds approximately 0.50 – 0.70 carats.
Lot 91 is also another Burmese sapphire lot, titled “Sapphire and Diamond Ring,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 20,000 – 28,000 (USD 24,956 – 34,938). The size O, 18k white gold ring is claw-set with an oval-shaped, medium blue, Burmese sapphire, weighing approximately 13.40 carats, highlighted by eight collet-set round brilliant-cut diamonds, and the shoulders and part of the shank pave-set with square brilliant-cut diamonds. GRS report no. GRS2016-107014 accompanying the lot, certifies that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement, medium blue in color, transparent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, estimated to weigh approximately 13.40 carats and having dimensions of 14.89 x 11.85 x 8.21 mm. Estimated total weight of colorless diamonds approximately 2.00 to 3.00 carats, color-grade G to I and clarity-grade VVS to VS as estimated in the mount.
Top among the Ruby lots are Lots 134, 98 and 217.
Lot 134, with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 24,956 – 37,434) and titled, “Pair of ruby and diamond ear clips, ‘Boule’, de Grisogono,” is the top highlight of all the ruby lots in the sale. Each of the ear-clips is designed as an 18k white gold sphere, pavé-set with circular-cut rubies, and linked by a line of three collet-set round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a smaller spherical surmount, also pavé-set with circular-cut rubies, and carrying the clip fittings. Each of the earclips is signed “de Grisogono,” the maker’s mark and numbered. The pouch is also stamped “de Grisogono.” The dark purplish-red rubies on the ear clips are well matched for color, shape and size and contain typical inclusions visible under magnification.
Another significant ruby containing lot is Lot 98, titled “Pair of gem set and diamond ear clips, Bulgari, 1960s,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 16,000 – 24,000 (USD 19,965 – 29,947). Each of the platinum and 18k white gold ear-clips designed in the form of a trefoil, is claw-set with six spherical cabochon blue sapphires in the center of the trefoil, surrounded by a single layer of pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamonds, still maintaining the shape of the trefoil, which in turn is surrounded by a triangular-shaped layer of 15 claw-set spherical cabochon-cut rubies, and a layer of 14 small brilliant-cut diamonds claw-set and placed intermittently corresponding to positions between two spherical cabochon rubies. Each ear-clip is signed Bulgari and the box also stamped Bulgari. Total estimated weight of diamonds 3.50 – 4.50 carts, color-grade G – I and clarity-grade VS – SI, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
Lot 217 is a “Ruby and diamond parure, Faraone,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 15,000 – 25,000 (USD 18,717 – 31,195) and consisting of a necklace, matching bracelet and a matching pair of ear-clips. The 38.5 cm, yellow gold necklace signed Faraone, is of swag or festoon design and claw-set with 17 cushion-cut, oval and circular cut rubies; one ruby set in the center of the swags at the extreme ends and 3 rubies each set across the remaining five swags. Five collet-set pear-shaped and circular-cut diamonds are placed at the points of origin of the swags, to form a rosette. The two points where the swags at the extreme ends meet the neck chain behind only three collet-set diamonds are placed. The neck-chain and the remaining sections of the swags are claw-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. CISGEM reports no. 3611 and 3612, state that the rubies are mostly of Burmese origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement. GPL report no. 13450, states that samples of rubies in the necklace were found to be of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat treatment.
The 18 cm bracelet of similar design as the necklace, signed faraone, has five similar motifs like swags, curved in opposite directions centered around a claw-set circular-cut ruby, and round brilliant-cut diamonds set on the curved motifs. At the points where these oppositely curved motifs meet, two rosettes made of five collet-set pear-shaped and circular-cut diamonds centered around a round brilliant-cut diamond are placed, with a smaller claw-set circular-cut ruby placed in-between them. One end of the bracelet ends with a rosette and the other end with a rosette, ruby and the clasp. GPL report no. 13451, states that samples of rubies in the bracelet were found to be of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat treatment.
Each of the pair of ear-clips of matching design as the necklace and bracelet, are claw-set with two circular-cut rubies, with a collet and claw-set round brilliant-cut diamond set between them. Four collet-set pear-shaped diamonds are placed on one side of the upper ruby. Three collet-set pear-shaped diamonds are placed on the outer side of the lower ruby and a fourth collet-set pear-shaped diamond is placed on the inner side almost at the center of the ear- clip. Four claw-set round brilliant-cut diamonds are placed on the lower side of the lower ruby. An additional five claw-set round brilliant-cut diamonds are also placed on the lower side of the ear-clip. GPL report no. 13452, states that the rubies in the earrings are of Burmese origin, with the two largest rubies in the earrings showing evidence of heat treatment and the two smaller rubies free of such treatment.
NATURAL PEARL LOTS
Significant natural pearl lots include, Lots 27, 152 and 21.
Lot 27 is a stunning jewel, incorporating a grey/black pearl and diamonds, designed as a bow with foliate motifs, titled, “Natural pearl and diamond jewel, late 19th century,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 22,500 – 32,500 (USD 28,076 – 40,554). The centerpiece of the bow is a baroque shaped or somewhat pear-shaped natural grey/black pearl, with grey body color and strong rose and green overtones with dimensions of 14.6 x 12.5 x 12.0 mm. The pearl is surrounded by a row of circular-cut and cushion-cut colorless diamonds. The ribbons of the bow are bordered by a single layer of circular-cut and cushion-cut colorless diamonds. The rosette like flower motifs on the ribbon are set with a central large circular-cut colorless diamond surrounded by 8 smaller circular-cut colorless emeralds. The leaf-like motifs on the inner and outer side of the rosettes, are also set with variously cut colorless diamonds. Estimated total weight of diamonds is approximately 18.00 – 22.00 carats. Estimated color-grade of diamonds is I to K (near-colorless to faint color) and clarity-grade VS to SI (Very Slightly to Slightly Included) as estimated in the mount. GPL report no. 13754, states that the pearl is natural, saltwater, with no evidence of treatment. Mounted in gold and silver. Pearl of baroque shape, with a drill hole and large cavity on the reverse.
Lot 152, titled, “Pair of natural pearl and diamond brooches,” has a pre-sale estimate of GBP 10,000 – 15,000 (USD 12,478 – 18,717). The 18k white gold and platinum brooches of dimensions 51 x 38 mm are designed as stylized palmettes and set with a pear-shaped black and white natural saltwater pearl at its base, from which 13 fronds set with baguette-cut and pear-shaped diamonds radiate. The dimensions of the black and white pearl are respectively (10.1 – 12.2) x 16.3 mm and (11.4 – 12.6) x 15.6 mm. The central frond ends with two pear-shaped diamonds, flanked by long fronds set with baguette-cut diamonds only. The next two fronds placed symmetrically on either side are slightly shorter and also end in two pear-shaped diamonds. The next symmetrically placed fronds are shorter than the previous two fronds and end in only one pear-shaped diamond. The next two symmetrical frond on either side are shorter than the previous fronds but only set with baguette-cut diamonds. The last two fronds on either side are the shortest and end in a single pear-shaped diamond. The last frond on the right hand side of the palmette is set with 3 baguette-cut diamonds only without a pear-shaped diamond. The curved arches at the base of the palmettes are pave-set with circular-cut colorless diamonds . A row of claw-set, 7 brilliant-cut colorless diamonds is placed on top of each arch. GPL report no. 13757, states that the pearls are natural, saltwater pearls, with no evidence of treatment.
The Black pearl, which is slightly flatter on the reverse, has a dark grayish-brown body color with strong red, green and purple overtones. The white pearl has a white body color without overtones. Estimated total weight of diamonds 18.00 – 22.00 carats; color-grade I to J (near-colorless); and clarity-grade VS to SI (very slightly to slightly included), as estimated on the mount. French assay marks for 18k white gold and platinum are found on the reverse of the brooches.
CULTURED PEARL LOTS
Highlights of Cultured Pearl Lots include Lot 122 and 133.
Lot 122, titled “Cultured Pearl and Diamond Brooch,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 7,000 – 10,000 (USD 8,735 – 12,478), is an animal motif brooch, designed as a stylized peacock, perched on a rock, depicted by a baroque-shaped cultured pearl of dimensions 22.0 x 16.5 mm. The brooch made of 18k white gold has dimensions of 100 x 35 x 18 mm. The feathers on the body and tail of the peacock are pave-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and the eye is set with a pear-shaped emerald. Estimated total weight of diamonds 16.00 to 18.00 carats, color-grade G to I (near-colorless) and clarity-grade VS (very slightly included) as estimated on the mount. Pear-shaped emerald is medium-green, transparent with typical inclusions found in emeralds. The baroque-shaped cultured pearl with a medium luster has a white body color, with strong rose, green and grey overtones. The brooch is stamped 18k for 18 carat white gold.
Lot 133 is a “Cultured Pearl and Diamond Necklace,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 5,000 – 7,000 (USD 6,239 – 8,735). The 43 cm (16.9 ins.) “Princess” length necklace is designed as a single strand of graduated cultured pearls, consisting of 25 spherical and near-spherical cultured pearls, varying in diameter from 15.3 to 19.5 mm. The clasp at the rear of the necklace is an openwork spherical clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The spherical and near-spherical cultured pearls have a white body color, with excellent luster, and strong rose and green overtones. The necklace is stamped 18k for 18-carat white gold.
CONCH PEARL LOT
There is only one Conch Pearl lot among the 281 lots on offer at the sale. This lot assigned Lot No. 167 is titled “Conch Pearl and Diamond Demi-Parure and Ring.” The demi-parure consists of a necklace, pair of earrings and a ring and has a pre-sale estimate of GBP 20,000 – 25,000 (USD 24,956 – 31,195)
The 18k white gold necklace is of torque design with the neck chain open in the front and pavé-set with melee size brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck-chain in front suspends an aggregate of conch pearls resembling the long pendulous inflorescence of the leguminous climbing plant Wisteria, commonly found in Japan, Korea, China and the Eastern United States. The Conch pearls vary in body color from dark pink to light pink and white and some with varied tones. The two large leaves at the base of the inflorescence are pavé-set with diamonds of pink and near colorless tint. Estimated total weight of diamonds 4.00 to 5.00 carats. The 37 cm. necklace is of choker length. The necklace is stamped 750 for 18 carat gold and bears Indistinct signature and number.
The pair of earrings is of similar design to the Wisteria inflorescence motif in the necklace, and is set with conch pearls of varying sizes, shapes and color. The color of the conch pearls vary from dark pink, to pink, light-pink and white, and some with varied tones. The conch pearls in the inflorescence are interspersed with aggregates of brilliant-cut diamonds of varying shapes and sizes. The earrings are provided with post and clip fittings. Earrings also stamped 750 for 18 carat gold.
The size M, 18k white gold ring is set with a near-spherical conch pearl, with a pink tone and white ‘flame’ structure visible across the surface. The gallery of the ring is also set with single-cut and tapered baguette-cut diamonds. Estimated total diamond weight in the ring is approximately is 0.80-1.20 carats.
Highlights among coral lots include lots 64 and 204.
Lot 64 – “Coral, Onyx, Seed Pearl and Diamond Bracelet, 1920s” has a pre-sale estimate of GBP 13,000 – 18,000 (USD 16,221 – 22,460) placed on it. The 18.5 cm Art Deco bracelet with french assay marks is made up of five hinged plaques of which the central plaque is unique and the two plaques on either side are identical having geometric feature characteristic of the Art Deco period. The central plaque is set with a carved red coral in the form of two pomegranates and two associated leaves. At the point where the stalk is attached to the fruit, a black onyx ring is placed and five persistent sepals set with rose and single-cut diamonds. The midrib of the two leaves are also set with rose and single-cut diamonds. Two identical geometric designs on either side of the carved red coral are set with black onyx and diamonds. The remaining identical four plaques have the same geometric shape – a rectangle and semi-circle on one side. The two plaques on either side of the central plaque are placed with their semi-circular ends facing each other. These open-work plaques are each set with two large red coral hololiths, and the border set with natural seed pearls. At the semi-circular end where the two plaques meet, two bezel-set rectangular black onyx slabs are placed. Diamonds are set on the bands connecting the coral hololiths to the border of the plaque.
Lot 204 – “Pair of Coral and Diamond Earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1970s.” has a pre-sale estimate of GBP 8,000 – 2,000 (USD 9,982 – 14,974). The 18k yellow gold earrings with post fittings, signed VCA and each numbered 73 and one numbered 3V67325, are of hoop and ribbed design and set with carved pink coral and accented with a cluster of brilliant-cut diamonds.
OTHER COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS
Lot 125 is one of eight Amethyst Lots on offer at the auctions. The lot titled, “Amethyst and Diamond Demi-Parure, Asprey,” has a pre-sale estimate of GBP 7,000 – 9,000 (USD 8,735 – 11,230). The demi-parure consists of a stunning neckace and a pair of ear-clips.
The 42 cm (16.5 in.), 18k white gold, choker length necklace, signed Asprey, with Italian maker’s mark 3489AL, and British hallmark for 1998, is a riviere type necklace with same floral units/rosettes repeated in the necklace, the larger floral units/rosettes being set in the front and gradually decreasing in size towards the rear. The center of each rosette is pavé-set with several brilliant-cut diamonds, surrounded by petals set with marquise-shaped amethysts. The larger rosettes in front have 14 marquise-shaped amethyst petals and the smaller rosettes 8 marquise-shaped amethyst petals. Estimated total diamond weight in the necklace approximately 4.00-6.00 carats.
The Ear Clips, signed Asprey and with Italian maker’s mark 3489AL, are of the same design as the larger rosettes in the necklace, with a pavé-set diamond center, surrounded by 14 marquise-shaped amethyst petals, with secure clip fittings on the reverse side. Estimated total diamond weight in the earclips approximately 1.00-2.00 carats.
Highlight of seven aquamarine lots on offer is lot 281, the last lot of the sale, titled, “Gem Set and Diamond Bird Brooch, Sterlé, circa 1970,” with a pre-sale estimate of GBP 18,000 – 26,000 (USD 22,460 – 32,443). Designed by the renowned french designer, Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978), the 18k yellow gold and platinum bird brooch, designed as a stylized bird in flight, is set with a large cabochon aquamarine representing the body of the bird, with several rectangular yellow-gold rods arising from it, from both sides, overlapping one another and representing the feathers of the spread out wings of a bird in flight. More such overlapping rectangular yellow gold rods arise from below the aquamarine body, representing the tailof the bird. The tail feathers are set with groups of round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. The triangular-shaped yellow gold head of the bird, is set with circular-cur dark blue sapphires, well matched in color. The spindle-shaped comb on the head of the bird is set with round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. Estimated color-grade of diamonds G to H (near-colorless), and estimated clarity grade VS (very slightly included). The aquamarine is of medium blue/green color with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye and minor surface reaching fissures. French assay and maker’s marks found on the brooch.
Lot 198 is a significant garnet lot, designed by the renowned Italian jewelry company. Pomellato. The lot titled, “Garnet and Diamond Demi-Parure and Pair of Earrings, Pomellato,” has a pre-sale estimate of GBP 6,000 – 10,000 (USD 7,487 – 12,478) and consists of a necklace, ring and pendant and a simple pair of yellow gold hoop earrings, which is not part of the demi-parure. The 41.5 cm (16.3 in.), choker length, 18k yellow gold necklace is collet-set with 27 circular-cut dark brownish-red garnets, separated by 18k white gold spacers, each set with three round brillaint-cut diamonds. The necklace stamped 750 for 18k yellow and white gold, is signed Pomellato, and also carries Italian maker’s marks. The dark brownish-red but transparent garnets, have typical inclusions visible under magnification. The largest collet-set circular-cut garnet behind the necklace carries secure clasps and fittings.
The size M, 18k yellow gold and white gold ring of matching design with the necklace, is set with a circular-cut, collet-set dark brownish-red, but transparent garnet flanked by three round brilliant-cut diamonds claw-set and collet-set on 18k white gold.
The pendant also of matching design has as its centerpiece a circular-cut, dark brownish-red garnet, collet-set with 18k yellow gold, with a cylindrical 18k white gold surmount, set with two rows of claw-set round brilliant-cut diamonds, through which passes an 18k yellow gold loop, that can be used to suspend the pendant to a necklace or neckchain. The ring and pendant are also signed Pomellato and carries Italian maker’s marks.