Sotheby’s Auction House has announced the holding of its Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels & Jadeite Autumn Sale on October 3, 2017 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Center, A total of 263 lots will be on offer at the auctions taking place in two sessions; session 1 starting at 1.30 pm offering lots 1601 to 1750 and session 2 starting at 4.30 pm offering lots 1751 to 1864. The auction will be preceded by exhibition of the lots; the Shanghai, Beijing, Singapore and Taipei exhibitions having already been concluded, and the final Hong Kong Exhibition taking place from September 28, 2017 to October 2, 2017, at Hall 1 of the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center. While exhibition times on Thursday, September 28, 2017 is from 10.00 am to 5.30 pm HKT, on September 29 & 30, 2017 the time will be from 10.00 am to 8.00 pm HKT and on the last two days, October 1 & 2, 2017 from 10.00 an to 6.30 pm HKT.
The sale will feature an array of iconic masterpieces from legendary jewelers, such as Bulgari, Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston as well as reputed contemporary designers such as Jar and Schlumberger, led by a rare and important Art Deco colored gemstone and diamond set “Tutti Frutti” Cartier bracelet; an exquisite 8.49-carat ruby ring by JAR and an impressive emerald and diamond parure by Van Cleef & Arpels. Apart from this the sale will also feature a fine selection of rare colored diamonds, exceptional colored stones and a bejeweled garden themed selection inspired by the flora and fauna of nature. A total of 263 lots with a total estimate in excess of HK$650,000,000/US$83,000,000 will be on offer at the auction.
Commenting on the upcoming auction QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of International Jewelry, Asia, said, “We are extremely pleased to present a great selection of the marvelous jewels to captivate our Asian jewelry connoisseurs, from an iconic Cartier ‘Tutti Frutti’ masterpiece to an amazingly rare “pigeon’s blood” ruby in a revolutionary mounting by India supremo, BHAGAT, not to mention blue and pink diamonds and an array of precious gemstones. We are also delighted to offer a great rarity – The Woolworth Yard Jadeite Necklace which dates from 1957.”
Based on pre-sale estimates, Ruby and diamond lots are among the top highlights of the sale, Lots 1844, 1857 and 1750 being such significant lots.
Lot 1844 – IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND RING – is undoubtedly both the top ruby lot and the top highlight of the sale, even though the pre-sale estimate is not specified, the online catalogue saying “Estimate Upon Request” and given the fact the lot occupies the top most position when the lots are arranged from high to low estimates.
Ring size 5½, 18k white gold “Toi et Moi” ring is set with a cushion-shaped ruby and diamond, matching in size and shape, but of slightly different weights, 6.01 and 4.25 carats, the ruby having a higher relative density than diamonds, being heavier than the diamond, although their volumes appear to be almost equal. The shoulders and upper shank of the ring are set with smaller circular-cut diamonds. AGL report numbered CS 69608, dated 11 August 2015, states that the 6.01 carat ruby is natural, of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no gemological evidence of heat enhancement. GGL report numbered 17081167, dated 5 September, 2017, confirms that the ruby is natural, of Burmese origin with no indications of heating. The Ruby is medium red of strong saturation, highly transparent, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching when examined under 10x magnification.
GIA report numbered 2185055504, dated 6 December 2016, states that the 4.25 carat, cushion-cut diamond is D-Color and Internally Flawless. Diamond type classification letter annexed to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIa, which confirms its D-color status, being both chemically pure and structurally perfect. Estimated total weight of circular-cut accent diamonds approximately 2.08 cts, with average color-grade of E-Color, clarity-grade VS as gauged and graded in the mounting.
LOT 1857 – VERY RARE AND IMPRESSIVE RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, DESIGNED AND MOUNTED BY BHAGAT – with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 68,000,000 – 88,000,000 (USD 8,693,800 – 11,250,800) is the second most valued lot of the entire sale and the second most expensive ruby lot of the sale. Ring size 5¾, platinum ring designed by the renowned Indian-based fine jeweler BHAGAT, is claw-set with an oval-shaped, brilliant-cut “pigeon-blood red” Burma ruby weighing 13.26 carats, accented with two rose-cut diamonds on the sides, the prongs also set with diamonds, and the graduated open sprung hoop of the ring set with calibrated faceted diamond beads, highlighted by two ruby bead terminals.
GGL and SSEF reports numbered 17051095 and 92156, dated 17 May 2017 and 22 May 2017 respectively, state that the 13.26 carat ruby is natural, of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no indications of heating. Both GGL and SSEF state that the color of this ruby may also be called “pigeon blood red.” The Ruby weighing 13.26 ct, is of medium dark red color with strong saturation and typical inclusions and cavities on pavilion, when examined under 10x magnification and not noticeable when worn. The Ruby beads, weighing approximately 1 carat are also medium dark red with strong saturation and typical inclusions. The diamonds have a total weight of approximately 10.50 carats and have an average color-grade of H to I and clarity-grade of VS to SI, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
Another significant Ruby lot is Lot 1750, titled, EXQUISITE RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, JAR, with an estimate of HKD 13,000,000 – 15,000,000 (USD 1,662,050 – 1,917,750). Designed by Joseph A. Rosenthal, renowned American modern jewelry designer living and working in Paris, the platinum ring of size 5¾, is set with an oval-cut Burma ruby weighing 8.49 carats. The gallery and hoop of the ring are set with single-cut colorless diamonds.
GGL, SSEF and GGTL reports numbered 14100054, 93135 and 14-B-2595, dated 9 October 2014, 26 June, 2017 and 27 August 2014 respectively, all state that the 8.49-ct ruby is natural, of Burmese (Mogok) origin with no indications of heat enhancement. The Ruby is medium dark, slightly purplish red with strong saturation and typical natural inclusions, some surface reaching and minor nicks on girdle, when inspected under 10x magnification but not noticeable when worn. Total weight of single-cut diamonds, estimated to weigh approximately 0.25 carat, average color-grade G to H and average clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
Among the significant colored diamond lots are Lots 1864, 1852 and 1698
Lot 1864 is the 3rd most valued lot of the sale and the highest valued colored diamond lot, with an estimate of HKD 55,000,000 – 75,000,000 (USD 7,031,750 – 9,588,750) and titled, VERY RARE AND IMPORTANT FANCY DEEP BLUE DIAMOND RING.
The size 6, 18k white gold ring is set with a pear-shaped, SI-1 clarity, fancy deep blue diamond weighing 5.14 carats. GIA report number 2175295375, dated 25 September, 2015, states that the 5.14 carat diamond is natural, Fancy Deep Blue Color and SI-1 clarity. Diamond type classification letter attached to the report, states that the diamond is determined to be a Type IIb diamond.
LOT 1852 is the second most valuable colored diamond lot, with an estimate of HKD 30,000,000 – 40,000,000 (USD 3,835,500 – 5,114,000) and given the title, EXQUISITE PAIR OF FANCY PINK DIAMOND AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS. Each of the pair of pendant earrings is set with a pear-shaped fancy pink diamond weighing 5.21 and 5.01 carats respectively, suspended from a colorless, brilliant-cut, diamond top, each of identical weight, weighing 1.01 carats, mounted in platinum with post and sprung locked fittings.
GIA reports numbered 5141763232 and 1146987781, dated April 12, 2017 and October 10, 2016, in respect of 5.21 carat and 5.01 carat diamonds respectively, state that the 5.21-ct pear brilliant diamond is Fancy Pink color and Internally Flawless clarity and that the 5.01 pear modified brilliant diamond is Fancy Pink color and VS1 clarity.
GIA reports numbered 2185482351 and 625331288, dated June 8, 2017 and May 17, 2017 respectively, state that both 1.01-ct round brilliant diamonds are D color, Internally Flawless with excellent cut, polish and symmetry.
LOT – 1698 – IMPORTANT FANCY VIVID YELLOW DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 16,000,000 -20,000,000 (USD 2,045,600 -2,557,000) is another significant colored diamond lot. The size 5½, 18k white gold ring is set with an emerald-cut, fancy vivid yellow, Internally Flawless diamond weighing 20.03 carats. GIA report number 1132342335, dated September 23, 2016, states that the 20.03 carat emerald cut diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow Color and Internally Flawless.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Highlights of colorless diamond lots include, Lots 1854, 1863 and 1686
LOT 1854 is the highest valued colorless diamond lot, with an estimate of HKD 37,000,000 – 48,000,000 (USD 4,730,450 – 6,136,800) and titled, VERY FINE UNMOUNTED DIAMOND. The 31.98-carat unmounted diamond is a round brilliant-cut, D-Color, Flawless clarity diamond.
GIA report number 2185519521, dated 5 July 2017, states that the 31.98-carat round brilliant diamond is D Color and Flawless. Diamond type classification letter annexed to the report states that the diamond is determined to be a Type IIa diamond which confirms its D-color status. Such diamonds are chemically pure and structurally perfect and are absolutely colorless, referred to in superlatives as “purest of the pure,” whiter than white,” brighter than bright,” “diamonds of the purest water,” etc.
LOT 1863 – IMPORTANT PAIR OF UNMOUNTED DIAMONDS – with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 19,000,000 – 25,000,000 (USD 2,429,150 – 3,196,250) is another highlight among colorless diamond lots. The matching pair of unmounted diamonds are pear-shaped and of comparable weights, of 12.36 and 12.00 carats. While the 12.36-carat pear-shaped diamond is D-color and Flawless clarity, the 12.00-carat pear-shaped diamond is also D-color but Internally Flawless clarity.
GIA reports numbered 5171492749 and 2185466725, dated 13 March 2017 and 5 July 2017 respectively, state that the 12.36 and 12.00 carat diamonds are both D-Color, Flawless and Internally Flawless respectively, with Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Diamond type classification letters annexed to the reports state that both diamonds are determined to be Type IIa diamonds, which are chemically pure and absolutely colorless with exceptional optical transparency.
LOT 1686 – FINE PAIR OF UNMOUNTED DIAMONDS – with estimate of HKD 8,000,000 – 10,000,000 (USD 1,022,800 – 1,278,500) is another significant colorless diamond lot. The matching pair of unmounted colorless diamonds are both round brilliant-cut, having comparable weights of 6.26 and 6.19 carats .
Two GIA reports accompanying the lot, state that the 6.26 and 6.19 carats round brilliant-cut diamonds are both D- Color, Flawless clarity, with Excellent Cut, Polish and Symmetry. Two diamond type classification letters annexed to the reports state that both diamonds are determined to be Type IIa diamonds, which are chemically pure and absolutely colorless with exceptional optical transparency.
Among highlights of emerald lots are Lots 1862 and 1696
Lot 1862, the highest valued emerald lot with an estimate of HKD 16,000,000 – 24,000,000 (USD 2,045,600 – 3,068,400) is also the 7th-highest valued lot in the entire sale, and is titled, SPECTACULAR EMERALD AND DIAMOND PARURE, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. The parure consists of a necklace, pair of pendant earrings and a ring. The necklace of variable length, 39 cm (choker) and 44 cm (princess) made of platinum, 18k white and yellow gold and signed VCA and numbered, suspends a detachable pendant in the front, made up of a central oval-cut emerald weighing 24.32 carats, highlighted by a row of circular-cut colorless diamonds and bordered by a row of marquise-cut colorless diamonds. The detachable pendant is suspended from the median emerald of the necklace in the front.
The design of the front half of the necklace is different from the rear half. While the front- half of the necklace is designed as alternating larger and smaller emerald-centered rosettes, the rear-half is made up of only smaller rosettes. The front-half has a median large oval-shaped emerald-centered rosette, the central emerald being the largest rectangular step-cut emerald in the necklace weighing 11.86 carats, claw-set on yellow gold, and surrounded by two rows of circular-cut diamonds. On either side of the median rosette, three large circular rosettes are placed at symmetrical positions separated by smaller rosettes. The circular rosettes are centered around a rectangular step-cut emerald, surrounded by two rows of circular-cut diamonds. The smaller rosettes are centered around a smaller oval-cut emerald, surrounded by pair of marquise-cut diamonds at the base and a pair of pear-shaped diamonds above with the pointed ends facing outwards.
The rear-half of the necklace has a small oval-cut emerald set on the clasp behind, with a pair of pear-shaped diamonds on either side set in the form of a V-shape, with the pointed ends meeting at the base of the V and the broader end facing outwards. A second pair of marquise-cut diamonds is placed outer to the pear-shaped diamonds, also arranged in the form of a V. On either side of this emerald-centered clasp, five smaller rosettes are placed, each rosette also centered around a small oval-cut emerald and consisting of a pair of diverging pear-shaped diamonds placed on one side with the broad end of the pear closer to the central emerald, and another pair of marquise-shaped diamonds placed on the other side, with the central diamond within the V-shape. These smaller rosettes with a pair of diamonds on either side are separated from one another by a pear-shaped diamond, with the broader end pointing towards the clasp. At the points where the front and rear halves of the necklace meet, a triad of three pear-shaped diamonds with their pointed ends meeting at one point and the broader ends facing outwards are placed. Total weight of oval and step-cut emeralds in the necklace is approximately 30.56 carats.
The detachable pendant can be worn as clip brooch. The necklace can be detached into three sections and one section of length 18 cm can be worn as a bracelet.
The pair of pendant earrings of matching design as the necklace, each has a fixed surmount made up of an emerald-centered rosette, an a pendant set with two more emeralds suspended from it. In the fixed surmount The fixed surmount with post and hinged back fittings, has a central rectangular step-cut emerald set on yellow gold, surrounded by a layer of circular-cut and pear-shaped colorless diamonds. The pendant suspendant from the surmount has a median emerald-centered rosette and a lower emerald centered rosette. The emeralds on these rosettes are also rectangular step-cut emeralds. The largest emeralds in each ear-pendant are the one in the fixed surmount and the lower suspended rosette. The middle suspended rosette has the smallest of the three emeralds in each ear-pendant. The lower suspended rosette has a triad of circular-cut diamonds and five pear-shaped diamonds suspended from it, with the broader end facing out wards. Total weight of six emeralds in the ear-pendants is approximately 18.93 carats. The pendant earrings are signed Van Cleef & Arpels.
The size 7, platinum ring signed Van Cleef & Arpels, is claw-set on yellow gold with a cut-cornered square step-cut emerald weighing approximately 10.31 carats, flanked on either side by a trilliant-cut diamond. Total weight of circular-cut, marquise-cut and pear-shaped diamonds in the entire parure is approximately 133.96 carats
Three AGL reports numbered CS 1076525, CS 1076526 and CS 1076524, and all dated 23 June 2016, state that the emeralds weighing 24.32, 11.86 and 10.31 carats respectively are natural, of Colombian origin, with insignificant to minor indication of clarity enhancement. AGL further states that the emerald weighing 11.86 carats is considered Classic Colombian.
LOT 1696 – FINE PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS – with an estimate of HKD 15,000,000 – 20,000,000 (USD 1,917,750 – 2,557,000) is the second significant emerald lot of the sale.
Each of the pair of pendant earrings is set with a hexagonal-shaped emerald weighing 12.30 and 11.68 carats respectively in the center, bounded above and below by two half-moon-shaped colorless diamonds, with a marquise-shaped diamond surmount weighing 0.82 and 0.80 carats respectively and circular-cut diamond details. Total weight of diamonds in both earrings approximately 5.87 carats. The emerald and diamonds are mounted in 18 karat white gold. The earrings are provided with post and butterfly fittings.
SSEF, GGL and AGL reports numbered 87406, 17087046/1&2 and 8086577/A&B dated 29 August 2016 and 23 August, 2017 respectively, state that the 12.30 and 11.68 carat emeralds are natural, of Colombian origin, with no indications of treatment. Also accompanied by GRS report numbered GRS2016-090643 (Award no. 1849), dated 10 September 2016. stating that the emeralds are natural, of Colombian origin with no indications of clarity enhancement. The Emeralds are medium dark green of strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching.
GIA report numbered 7208226944, dated 24 June 2015 states that the 0.82 ct marquise shaped diamond is D colour, VVS1 clarity and GIA report numbered 2256761098 dated 15 May 2017, states that the 0.80 ct marquise shaped diamond is F colour, VVS1 clarity. Estimated total weight of other diamonds approximately 5 carats, average color-grade E to F and average clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
Lots 1841, 1839, and 1631 are some of the important Jadeite Lots.
LOT 1841, The highest valued Jadeite Lot with an estimate of HKD 15,000,000 – 20,000,000 (USD 1,917,750 – 2,557,000) is titled, VERY FINE JADEITE HOOP AND DIAMOND PENDENT NECKLACE. The hoop of dimensions 53.72 x 22.43 x 9.70 mm is a highly translucent jadeite hoop of intense emerald green color, with a circular-cut diamond-set rondelle surmount and suspended from a black cord. Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate number KJ 96233, dated 14 August 2017, states that the jadeite is natural, known in the trade as “A-Jade”. The Jadeite hoop is highly translucent and of intense emerald green color. Minor clouds are visible only under strong illumination. Estimated weight of diamonds approximately 0.25 ct, average color-grade F-color, clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
LOT 1839 – IMPORTANT JADEITE BANGLE – with an estimate of HKD 14,000,000 – 18,000,000 (USD 1,789,900 – 2,301,300) is the other significant jadeite lot of the sale. The bangle of inner diameter and thickness of 57.80 and 14.25 mm respectively, with a flattened inner rim, is highly translucent with a section of brilliant emerald green colour to light green background, suffused with intense emerald green streaks. Hong Kong Jade and Stone Laboratory certificate number KJ 96155, dated 4 August 2017, accompanying the lot, states that the jadeite is natural, known in the trade as “A-Jade”. Jadeite bangle is of high translucency, partly of brilliant emerald green suffused with streaks of intense emerald green colour, and partly of light green with streaks of bright emerald green colour. Under strong illumination, there are small black spots and whitish clouds, very common in natural jadeite, and not easily seen under normal lighting condition.
LOT 1631 – IMPORTANT JADEITE AND DIAMOND RING – with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 8,000,000 – 10,000,000 (USD 1,022,800 – 1,278,500) is the other important jadeite lot of the sale. Size 6¼, 18k white gold ring is claw-set with a jadeite cabochon of dimensions 22.21 x 17.55 x 10.28 mm, of good translucency and brilliant emerald green colour and the gallery is decorated with circular-cut diamonds. Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate number KJ 96062, dated 20 July 2017, states that the jadeite is natural, known in the trade as “A Jade”. Jadeite cabochon is of good transparency and brilliant emerald green colour with minor white patches near the base under strong illumination, but not visible under normal lighting. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 0.57 ct, with average color-grade of E- colour and clarity-grade of VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
Significant sapphire lots include Lots 1845, 1859 and 1842.
LOT 1845 – IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, BULGARI – with an estimate of HKD 10,500,000 – 15,000,000 (USD 1,342,425 – 1,917,750) is the highest valued blue sapphire lot of the sale. Ring size 5¼ platinum ring, signed Bulgari, is set with an oval-cut Burma blue sapphire weighing 29.87 carats, flanked by shield-shaped diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. GGL and SSEF reports bearing numbers 17075023 and 89934, dated 18 July 2017 and 23 January 2017 respectively, state that the 29.87-carat sapphire is natural, of Burma (Myanmar) origin, with no indications of heating, and the color of this sapphire may also be called “royal blue” based on GGL and SSEF reference standards. The Sapphire is medium dark blue of strong saturation with typical inclusions, hardly visible under 10X magnification. SSEF Appendix letter accompanying the report states that “The natural sapphire…exhibits an impressive size and weight…combined with a highly attractive and saturated color and a very fine purity. A natural sapphire from Burma of this size and quality is rare and exceptional.” Estimated weight of diamonds approximately 1.20 carats, average color-grade G-color, and clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
LOT 1859 – FINE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – with an estimate of HKD 7,000,000 – 8,000,000 (USD 894,950 – 1,022,8000) is the second highest valued sapphire lot in the sale. Ring size 6, 18k white gold ring, signed VCA, numbered ML 3238 and inscribed 15.42 referring to the weight of the sapphire, is claw-set with a cabochon-cut Kashmir blue sapphire weighing approximately 15.42 carats, and the openwork scrolled shoulders of the ring are embellished with circular-cut diamonds. GGL and SSEF reports bearing numbers 17011070 and 91738, dated 3 February 2017 and 26 April 2017 respectively, state that the sapphire is natural, of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. The blue color of the sapphire is of medium strong saturation, with minor typical inclusions and a few surface reaching. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 0.50 carat; average color-grade E to F color, clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
LOT 1842 – IMPRESSIVE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, HARRY WINSTON – is another stunning sapphire lot, with an estimate of HKD 6,400,000 – 7,500,000 (USD 818,240 – 958,875). The necklace detachable into four sections and wearable in two lengths, as a collar of 35 cm or choker of 40 cm and the front section as a bracelet of length 16.5 cm is set with a row of 20 oval and cushion-shaped blue sapphires with a total weight of approximately 105.70 carats, spaced by diamond clusters consisting of circular-cut, marquise-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, with a total weight of approximately 48.00 carats, mounted in platinum and white gold, Numbered 5865 with maker’s marks for Jacques Timey.
AGL reports numbered 1078096, 1078096-1 to 3, dated 12 September, 2016, state that the 20 sapphires are all natural with no indication of heating, and that 9 of the sapphires (the largest sapphires) are of Ceylon (Sri Lankan) origin and 11 of the sapphires are of Burma origin. The sapphires are medium dark blue of moderate to very good saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 48 carats; average color-grade E-F color; average clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
OTHER COLORED STONE LOTS
Some of the other colored stone highlights are Lots 1682, 1747, 1683
PARAIBA TOURMALINE LOT
LOT 1682 is a Paraiba Tourmaline lot titled, RARE PARAÍBA TOURMALINE AND DIAMOND RING, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 8,750,000 – 11,000,000 (USD 1,118,688 1,406,350). Ring size 6½ platinum ring, is set with a cushion-shaped Paraíba tourmaline weighing 12.67 carats, flanked on either side by a pear-shaped and circular-cut diamond butterfly motif embellished with a pear-shaped Paraíba tourmaline.
AGL report number 1084968, dated 19 June 2017, states that the paraíba tourmaline is natural, of classic Brazilian origin, with no clarity enhancement. GGL report number 16101189, dated 9 November 2016, states that the paraíba tourmaline is natural, of Brazilian origin with treatment not determinable. GIA report number 1182446048 dated May 23 2017, states that the 12.67 ct paraiba tourmaline is natural of Brazilian origin. The Paraiba is of medium greenish blue color of strong saturation and loupe clean. Smaller paraibas, estimated to weigh approximately 0.20 ct are greenish-blue color with minor typical inclusions. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 2.00 carats; average color-grade E-F color, clarity-grade VS, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
RUBELLITE TOURMALINE LOT
LOT 1747 – IMPRESSIVE RUBELLITE AND DIAMOND BROOCH / PENDANT, ‘ORCHID’, CARTIER 2011, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 5,500,000 – 8,000,000 (USD 703,175 – 1,022,800) is another colored stone highlight of the sale. The jewel that can be worn as a brooch or necklace is designed as a carved rubellite orchid in full bloom weighing 761.00 carats. The center of the orchid is highlighted with 18 colorless briolette diamonds, the largest briolette diamond weighing 11.07 carats, mounted in platinum and 18 karat white gold. The brooch may also be worn as a pendant to a necklace, with accompanying diamond and silk cord. Length of necklace 50 cm. The jewel is presented with a specially crafted rock crystal base.
The lot is accompanied by a Cartier certificate of authenticity and original sketch by Cartier. Rubellite stated to weigh 761 carats, with a few typical inclusions, some surface reaching. Briolette diamonds stated to weigh a total of 42.83 carats, average color-grade I-K color, average clarity-grade VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. SSEF report no. 13576, dated 11 February 2011, states that the briolette diamond weighing 11.07 carats and measuring 9.36 x 10.12 x 13.39 mm, is J color and VS2 clarity.
Brooch/pendant signed Cartier and numbered H5S00049. Diamond and silk cord signed Cartier, numbered RK9351. Estimated total weight of diamonds on silk cord, approximately 5.50 carats, average color-grade E to F color, average clarity-grade VVS to VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
Rock crystal pedestal, weighing approximately 7.36 kg with some abrasions and nicks, the fitting to attach the brooch on the crystal pedestal is missing.
LOT 1683 – PADPARADSCHA SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of HKD 3,800,000 – 5,000,000 (USD 485,830 – 639,250) is another significant colored gemstone highlight. Ring size 6, 18 karat white and pink gold, is set with a cushion-shaped padparadscha sapphire weighing 8.01 carats, flanked on each side by a cushion-shaped and old-mine-cut diamond, weighing 1.01 and 1.00 carat respectively.
SSEF and GGL reports numbered 76367 and 15027028, dated 23 September 2014 and 2 March 2015 respectively, state that the padparadscha sapphire is natural, of Sri Lankan (Ceylon) origin, with no indications of heating. The Padparadscha is of medium light pinkish orange color with good saturation, with minor typical inclusions only visible with 10X loupe.
Two GIA reports numbered 2207154674 and 6202155347, both dated June 3, 2015, state that the 1.01 and 1.00 carat diamonds are F and G color, VS2 and SI2 Clarity respectively.
NATURAL PEARL LOTS
Significant natural pearl lots include Lots 1849 and 1855.
LOT 1849 with an estimate of HKD 7,100,000 – 9,000,000 (USD 907,735 – 1,150,650) is the highest valued natural pearl lot in the sale and is titled, FINE PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL, FANCY VIVID YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND PENDENT EAR CLIPS, HARRY WINSTON. Each of the ear-pendants suspends a drop-shaped natural saltwater pearl measuring approximately 11.37 x 18.25 mm and 12.02 x 16.99 mm and weighing respectively 15.989 and 15.199 cts, by a bell-cap arrangement from a line and navicular-shaped surmount. The drop shaped pearls are light grayish brown color with slight rosé overtone and very good luster. The centerpiece of the navicular-shaped surmount in one ear-pendant is a marquise-shaped, fancy vivid yellow, VVS2 clarity diamond weighing 3.26 cts and in the other ear-pendant an oval-shaped, fancy vivid yellow, SI-1 clarity diamond weighing 3.23 cts respectively. Colorless diamonds highlighting the fancy vivid yellow diamonds and the linear surmount are circular-cut and single-cut diamonds. The bell-cap is set with marquise-cut colorless diamonds.
SSEF report numbered 65748, dated 8 November 2012, states that the pearls weighing 15.989 and 15.199 cts are natural saltwater pearls, with no indications of artificial color modification. Two GIA reports numbered 5151572509 and 2155572574, both dated 6 August 2013, state that the 3.26 and 3.23 carat diamonds are natural, Fancy Vivid Yellow, VVS2 and SI1 Clarity respectively. Colorless side diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 2.40 carats are on average G to H color, VS to SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mounting.
LOT 1855 – NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of HKD 3,300,000 – 4,500,000 (USD 421,905 – 575,325) is another significant natural pearl lot. The necklace is designed as a five-strand natural saltwater pearl necklace, composed of 300 graduated natural pearls, with a diameter ranging from 5.20 mm to 11.70 mm, the inner strand having a length of 58 cm, equivalent to a Matinee length necklace. The natural pearls have varying shapes such as oval, drop and near-round. The body color of the pearls are from slightly cream to cream color, partly with rosé and green overtones, with silky to good luster, and a few having excellent luster. Signs of minor blemish on surface of the pearls, which is very common in natural pearls. Pearls overall are in very good condition. SSEF report numbered 94099, dated 26 July 2017, states that the 300 pearls tested are natural saltwater pearls.
The pearls of the necklace are spaced by a seed pearl and two faceted diamond beads on either side of it. Total weight of diamonds approximately 20.00 carats. The clasp behind is set with circular-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum and white gold. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 20 carats, average color-grade F to G color and average clarity-grade VS to SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
The seed pearls in the necklace have not been tested.
ICONIC MASTERPIECE BY CARTIER
An Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond ‘Tutti-Frutti’ Bracelet, by Cartier, bearing Lot No. 1860, titled, VERY RARE AND EXQUISITE ART DECO GEM SET AND DIAMOND BRACELET, ‘TUTTI-FRUTTI’ CARTIER, with a pre-sale estimate of HKD 10,500,000 – 14,000,000 (USD1,342,425 – 1,789,900) is among the top highlights of iconic masterpieces from legendary jewelers. Designed as a plant motif, a section of a twig or branch with leaves and fruits, the articulated branch set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 3.00 carats in total, and the leaves and fruits represented by cabochon and carved rubies, sapphires and emeralds, mounted in white gold and platinum.
The 17 cm, circa 1928, bracelet is signed Cartier and numbered 2919264, 6812 and 9677. The emeralds are medium green color of moderate to intense saturation, sapphires of medium to medium dark blue of strong saturation and rubies of medium dark purplish red and strong saturation. All gemstones have natural inclusions and slight abrasions typical of carved gemstones of the period. Total weight of diamonds approximately 3.00 carats, average color-grade F to G color, clarity-grade VS to SI, as gauged and graded in the mount.