Sotheby’s Auction House is due to hold its summer Geneva Fine Jewels Sale on Thursday, 14th June, 2018, at its Geneva Office and Sales Center, situated at 2, Rue François-Diday, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland. The auction offering a total of 325 Lots will be held in two sessions, the first session starting at 10.30 AM offering Lots 501 to 665n and the second session starting at 2.30 PM offering Lots 666 to 826. The auction will be preceded by an exhibition of the lots at the same venue in Geneva from Monday, 11th June, 2018 to Wednesday, 13th June, 2018, viewing times being 11.00 AM to 7.00 PM CEST on the first two days and 11.00 AM to 5.00 PM CEST on the third day.
The Lots offered range in value from as low as CHF 800 (USD 810) to as high as CHF 91,000 (USD 92,000) and includes an array of jewels such as bracelets & bangle bracelets, brooches, earclips & earrings, necklaces, pendants, parures and demi-parures, rings and wristwatches, set with colored and colorless diamonds, colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, aquamarine, citrine, onyx, peridot, tourmaline, turquoise and yellow sapphires and organic gemstones such as natural and cultured pearls, corals, mother-of-pearl and seed pearls, the metals used being gold, platinum and silver.
The auction features jewels by renowned jewelry houses such as Bulgari, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co, and renowned designers such as David Webb, Della Valle, Chaumet, Faraone, Gubelin etc.
Top Lot of the Sale is a Ruby Lot, assigned LOT No. 814 and titled RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, with an estimate of CHF 71,000 – 91,000 (USD 71,850 – 92,089). The size 50, 18k white gold ring, stamped 750 for 18k gold is claw-set with an oval-cut “Pigeon Blood” red Burma ruby weighing 2.41 carats, flanked by brilliant-cut colorless diamonds on the shoulders of the ring.
GGL report no. 18031201 and GIA report no. 727868346, each states that the oval ruby, weighing 2.41 carats, measuring 8.76 x 7.32 x 4.42 mm, is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The Ruby has a “Pigeon Blood” red color of strong saturation with typical inclusions, visible only under close inspection with minor abrasions and nicks.
The diamonds are bright and lively. Gross weight of the ring is approximately 4 grams.
Other significant Ruby Lots include Lots 803 and 813.
LOT 803 – RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of CHF 50,000 – 80,000 (USD 50,599 – 80,958) is the 2nd most valued ruby lot of the sale. The 18k white gold festoon necklace, stamped 750 for 18k gold, with inner circumference of a collar or choker, is bezel-set with baguette-cut diamonds on the main neck-chain and the festoons, highlighted by oval-cut rubies at the points where the festoons join the main neck-chain, the intersections of the festoons and the lowest points of the festoons.
GGL report no. 14110100, states that of the twenty-one oval rubies with dimensions varying from approximately 7.8 x 5.8 x 3.4 mm to approximately 11.9 x 9.2 x 5.3 mm, a large majority are of Burma origin, with indications of heating. The Rubies are well matched in color, red of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions and minor abrasions.
Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 14.00 – 16.00 carats, average color-grade G-H Color, clarity grade VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Gross weight of necklace approximately 109 grams.
LOT 813 – RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET – with an estimate of CHF 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 20,239 – 30,359) is another Ruby Lot of the sale. The 18 cm (7 ins) 18k yellow gold bracelet with French assay marks 750 for 18k gold, is of plant motif set with three ruby-centered florets/rosettes, with pairs of opposite diamond-set leaf motifs facing opposite directions from the central rosette towards the clasps. The rubies are oval in shape and the diamonds are round brilliant-cut diamonds except for two pear=shaped diamonds, one each placed between the clasps at the end and the first ruby-centered rosette.
SSEF report no. 88901, states that the rubies, measuring approximately 9.75 x 7.30 x 4.05 mm and 12.15 x 8.90 x 4.00 mm weighing approximately 2.80 carats and 4.30 carats respectively are of Burma origin, with no indications of heating; and the ruby measuring approximately 9.90 x 7.00 x 4.10 mm, weighing approximately 2.70 carats is of Vietnam origin, with no indications of heating.
The bracelet is Inscribed R 9.80, P 1.77 and B 11.00 for total stated carat weigh of rubies, pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds respectively. The Rubies are well matched in color with typical inclusions, some surface reaching.
Average color=grade of diamonds G-H color, VS clarity, as graded in the mount. Gross weight of bracelet approximately 45 grams.
The 3rd, 4th, 7th, 8th and 11th most valued lots of the sale are all Sapphire Lots.
Top Sapphire Lot of the sale is the 3rd most valued lot, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS assigned LOT No 778, with an estimate of CHF 50,000 – 80,000 (USD 50,599 – 80,958). Each of the pair of 18k gold earrings with French maker’s mark for Senez, 122 Grande-Rue, 76200 Dieppe and assay marks 750 for 18k gold is set with a pear-shaped cabochon sapphire as center piece, weighing respectively 22.69 carats and 25.11 carats, within an open setting in the shape of the figure 8, composed of an intertwined pear-shaped and circular rings, set with colorless circular-cut diamonds. The earrings inscribed S 22.69, S 25.11 and B 23.58, indicating the carat weights of each sapphire and total weight of brilliant-cut diamonds, is provided with clip fittings.
SSEF report no. 78793, states that the pear-shaped cabochon sapphires measuring approximately 19.50 x 13.80 x 9.20 mm and 19.50 x 13.95 x 7.85 mm and weighing respectively 25.11 carats and 22.69 carats, are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The Sapphires are well matched in color, blue of strong saturation with typical inclusions and minor abrasions.
Diamonds on average G-H color and VS clarity, as graded in the mount. Gross weight of both earrings approximately 55 grams.
LOT 762 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of CHF 40,000 – 70,000 (USD 40,479 – 70,838) is the 4th most valued lot and the 2nd most valued Sapphire Lot of the sale. The 38 cm (15 ins) choker length platinum riviere necklace, stamped PT950 for platinum, is set throughout with round brilliant-cut diamonds, except a small part in the front, set with pear-shaped diamonds, the main neck-chain set with pear-shaped diamonds is twisted with a subsidiary chain set with circular-cut orange diamonds, and the pear diamond set main neck-chain continuing downwards as a suspension for a pendant, whose centerpiece is a heart-shaped cabochon sapphire weighing 32.55 carats, highlighted by a row of circular-cut orange diamonds. The necklace is inscribed SC 32.55, DP14.28, DB 10.96, and B 3.92.
SSEF report no. 98159, states that the cabochon sapphire, weighing 32.55 carats, measuring 19.13 x 18.47 x 12.38 mm, shows indications of heating. The sapphire is blue of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions visible under close inspection and minor abrasions.
The near-colorless diamonds stated to weigh a total of 25.24 carats, on average G-H color, VS clarity, as graded in the mount. Diamonds of orange tint stated to weigh a total of 3.92 carats. Gross weight approximately 64 gram.
LOT 767 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 30,000 – 50,000 (USD 30,359 – 50,599) is the 7th most valued lot and the 3rd most valued Sapphire Lot of the sale. The size 52, 18k yellow gold ring with French assay mark OR 750 for 18k gold and maker’s mark for Jacques Timey, is double claw-set with a hemispherical Ceylon cabochon sapphire weighing 30.28 carats, flanked by a heart-shaped diamond on the shoulders of the ring and the surrounding mount highlighted by brilliant-cut diamonds.
SSEF report no. 80951, states that the sapphire measuring approximately 15.90 x 14.80 x 12.75 mm, weighing 30-28 carats, is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. The ring is inscribed SC 30.28, DC 1.54, BR 4.33, for total stated carat weights of sapphire, heart-shaped diamonds, and brilliant-cut diamonds respectively. The Sapphire is blue of medium strong saturation with typical inclusions and minor abrasions.
The Diamonds have average color-grade H-I color and clarity-grade VS clarity, as graded in the mount. Gross weight of ring approximately 17 grams.
LOT 632 – SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE – with an estimate of CHF 30,000 – 50,000 (USD 30,359 – 50,599) is the 8th most valued lot and the 4th most valued Sapphire Lot of the sale. The 38 cm (15 ins) choker length, 18k yellow gold necklace, with French assay marks OR750 for 18k gold, has a detachable symmetrical motif in the front, with a heart-shaped sapphire set in the center, weighing 15.03 carats, highlighted by a heart-shaped row of brilliant-cut diamonds, flanked by a symmetrical motif on either side, set with a pear-shaped blue sapphire, also highlighted by a similarly shaped row of brilliant-cut diamonds. The detachable pendant is inscribed S 15.03, S 4.73 and S 5.20 indicating the carat weights of heart-shaped sapphire, and the two pear-shaped sapphires. The Sapphires are well matched in color, blue of medium-strong saturation, with typical inclusions visible only under close inspection with very minor abrasions.
The neck-chain made up of thick segments of 18k yellow-gold, are set with round brilliant-cut diamonds on the two visible sides of each segment and is inscribed B 11.22 indicating the total carat weight of all brilliant-cut diamonds in the necklace.
Average color-grade of diamonds H-I color, clarity-grade VS clarity, as graded in the mount. Gross weight of necklace approximately 72 grams.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Significant Colorless Diamond Lots include Lot 807, 811 and 825
LOT 807 – DIAMOND RING – is the top colorless diamond lot of the sale and the 5th most valued lot in the entire sale. The size 53½, 18k white gold ring, stamped 750 for 18 carat white gold, is set with a round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 7.53 carats, which in the opinion of Sotheby’s experts measures approximately 12.84 x 12.96 x 7.64 mm and is of light-yellow tint with a clarity-grade of VS2. The gross weight of ring is approximately 5 grams.
LOT 811 – DIAMOND PENDANT – with an estimate of CHF 30,000 – 50,000 (USD 30,359 – 50,599) is the 2nd most valued colorless diamond lot and overall the 6th most valued lot of the sale. The 45 cm (17.7 ins) princess length, 18k white gold necklace, stamped 750 for 18 carat gold, suspends a pendant claw-set with a pear-shaped diamond weighing 3.01 carats, by a white gold surmount, from a white gold link neck-chain.
GIA report no 7101222, dated 25 February 1986, states that the pear-shaped diamond, weighing 3.01 carats, with dimensions of 11.85 x 8.49 x 4.71 mm, is D-Color and VVS2-Clarity. Gross weight of necklace approximately 5 grams. The size 46, 18k white and yellow-gold ring is collet-set with a round brilliant-cut diamond, the surrounding mount
LOT 825 – DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 25,000 – 35,000 (USD 25,299 – 35,419) is the 3rd most valued lot and overall the 12th most valued lot of the sale. The size 46, 18k white and yellow gold ring, stamped 750 for 18k gold with French maker’s mark, is collet-set with a brilliant-cut diamond at the center and the surrounding mount pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds of colorless and yellow tint.
The central diamond measuring approximately 12.25 x 12.13 x 7.58 mm is calculated to weigh approximately 6.50 carats and according to Sotheby’s experts’ opinion K-L Color and VS2-Clarity, The remaining near-colorless diamonds are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 2.00 – 2.20 carats, with average color-grade G-H colour and clarity-grade VS-SI clarity. The diamonds of yellow tint are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 2.00 – 2.20 carats, as gauged and graded in the mount. Gross weight approximately 12 grams. The diamonds of yellow tint have not been tested for natural origin.
Some of the significant Emerald Lots include Lots 805, 795 and 797.
LOT 805 – PAIR OF SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BULGARI – with an estimate of CHF 25,000 – 35,000 (USD 25,299 – 35,419) is the top Emerald Lot and the 9th most valued lot of the sale. Each of the pair of pendant earrings, signed BVLGARI with Italian maker’s marks and stamped Pt 950 for platinum and OR for gold, suspends a drop-shaped emerald and sapphire respectively, by a bell-cap arrangement set with brilliant-cut diamonds, from a surmount of floral motif, set with five pear-shaped diamonds around a circular-cut diamond pistil, a second circular-cut diamond placed between the bell-cap and the upper floral motif.
The Emerald is green of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, scratches, nicks and cavities. The Sapphire is blue of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions and a few scratches.
Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 5.00 – 6.00 carats, average color-grade H-J color, and clarity-grade VS-Clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Total gross weight of both earrings approximately 28 grams.
LOT 795 – EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 20,239 – 30,359) Is another significant emerald lot of the sale. The size 54, 18k yellow-gold ring, with French assay mark OR750 for 18k gold, is bezel-set with a sugarloaf cabochon emerald weighing 7.11 carats, flanked on either side by a claw-set pear-shaped ruby on the shoulders of the ring, lined by a row of diamonds of yellow tint within a pear-shaped yellow gold bezel, the mount further enhanced with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The ring is inscribed EC 7.11, RP 2.17, B 1.88, and BJ 0.58, for carat weight of emerald and total carat weight of rubies, colorless diamonds, and diamonds of yellow tint respectively.
SSEF report no. 86264, states that the emerald measuring approximately 11.50 x 11.00 x 7.50 mm, stated to weigh 7.11 carats, is of Colombian origin, with a moderate amount of oil in fissures, and that the rubies measuring approximately 7.30 x 5.50 x 3.65 mm and 6.85 x 5.35 x 3.15 mm, calculated to weigh approximately 1.3 and 0.9 carats respectively, are of Thai origin, with indications of heating.
The Emerald is green of medium strong saturation with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, minor abrasions. The Rubies red of strong saturation with minor abrasions. Diamonds are bright and lively. Gross weight approximately 14 grams.
LOT 797 – EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 12,000 – 18,000 (USD 12,144 – 18,215) is another emerald lot in the sale. The size 51. 18k yellow gold ring, with French assay mark OR750 for 18k gold, is claw-set with a rectangular step-cut emerald stated to weigh 2.33 carats, the shoulders and mount highlighted with pear-shaped, marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. The ring is inscribed E 2.33 for stated carat weight of emerald, DN 0.61 for stated carat weight of marquise-shaped diamonds, DP 0.58 for stated carat weight of pear-shaped diamond, B 1.86 for stated carat weight of brilliant-cut diamonds.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
Top among the Colored Diamond Lots is LOT 722 – FANCY COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND EARRINGS – CHF 25,000 – 35,000 (USD 25,299 – 35,419). Each of the 18k gold and platinum earrings, stamped 750 for 18k gold and Pt900 for platinum, is of floral design set with four variously colored marquise-shaped diamonds with post and butterfly fittings.
Six GIA reports, in respect of the colored diamonds state that the diamonds weighing respectively 0.47 cts, o.54 cts, 0.61 cts, 0.73 cts, 1.03 cts, and 1.08 carats, are Fancy Intense Green-Yellow, Fancy Pink Brown, Fancy Dark Greenish Gray, Fancy Intense Yellow, Fancy Deep Orange-Yellow, Light Pinkish Brown, with clarity grade ranging from SI1-VS2 Clarity.
Two GIA report no. 2264953102 and no. 6265111776, in respect of the two colorless diamonds state that the diamonds weighing 0.55 and 0.44 carats respectively are both F-Color and SI1 and VS1 Clarity. Total gross weight of both earrings approximately 6 grams.
Other significant Colored Diamond Lots include Lots 789 and 764.
LOT 789 – FANCY YELLOW-BROWN DIAMOND RING – with an estimate CHF 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 20,239 – 30,359) is another Colored Diamond Lot of the sale. Ring size 53 ½ platinum ring, stamped Pl 950 for platinum, is claw-set with a round brilliant-cut, fancy yellow-brown diamond weighing 7.46 carats, framed with smaller colorless brilliant-cut diamonds on the surrounding mount.
GIA report no. 6183800737, states that the round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 7.46 carats, measuring 12.74 x 12.80 x 7.49 mm, is Fancy Yellow-Brown Color and I1 Clarity. The surrounding near-colorless diamonds are bright and lively, with estimated total weight of approximately 1.75 – 2.00 carats. Gross weight of ring approximately 10 grams.
LOT 764 – FANCY LIGHT YELLOW DIAMOND RING, ALLURION – with an estimate of CHF 20,000 – 30,000 (USD 20,239 – 30,359) is another significant Colored Diamond Lot. Ring size 51 ½ 18k gold ring, stamped AU750 for 18 carat gold, signed Allurion, and numbered R006, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped fancy light yellow diamond weighing 4.01 carats, highlighted by a frame of colorless brilliant-cut diamonds, the shoulders and upper hoop of the ring further accented with similarly cut diamonds.
GIA report no. 2185813502, states that the cushion-shaped diamond, weighing 4.01 carats, measuring 8.65 x 8.50 x 5.93 mm, is Fancy Light Yellow, Natural Color and VS1 Clarity. The accenting diamonds are bright and lively. Gross weight of ring approximately 4 grams.
LOT 756 – CORAL AND DIAMOND PARURE, 1960S – with an estimate of CHF 15,000 – 20,000 (USD 15,180 – 20,239) is a significant Coral Lot in the sale. The parure consists of a necklace, a ring and a pair of ear clips.
The 32 cm (12.6 ins) Collar necklace is composed of three graduated rows of coral beads. The yellow gold clasp of openwork stellar design is set with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds.
Ring size 52 ½ yellow gold ring is set with a circular whitish-pink coral cabochon, surrounded by a row of alternating triads and single brilliant-cut diamonds.
Each of the pair of ear clips of matching design with the ring is also set with a circular whitish-pink coral cabochon, surrounded by a row of alternating triads and single brilliant-cut diamonds.
Coral cabochons well matched in color, whitish pink, with growth lines, minor scratches and small blemishes. Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 6.50 – 7.00 carats, average color-grade H-I color and clarity-grade VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Clasp secure with safety catch. Gross weight of parure approximately 271 grams.
CULTURED PEARL LOTS
Significant Cultured Pearl Lots include Lots 593 and 799.
LOT 593 – PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, TIFFANY & CO. – with an estimate of CHF 10,000 – 15,000 (USD 10,120 – 15,180) is a top lot among cultured pearl lots. Each of the pair of platinum earrings, signed Tiffany & Co and stamped Pt950 for platinum, supports a detachable grey cultured pearl drop, capped with marquise-shaped diamonds and the surmount set with similarly cut marquise-shaped, pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds with post and clip fittings.
The dimensions of the two Pearls are approximately 13.14 x 13.17 x 13.75mm and 13.12 x 13.13 x 13.99mm, with greyish body color and rosé and green overtones.
Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 4.50 – 5.00 carats, average color-grade G-H color and clarity-grade VS color. Total gross weight of both earrings approximately 21 grams.
LOT 799 – PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL, GEM SET AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, ‘LORETO’, MARINA B – with an estimate of CHF 9,000 – 12,000 (USD 9,108 – 12,144) is another Cultured Pearl Lot of the sale. Each of the pear-shaped 18k yellow gold earclips, signed Marina B, numbered F5308, with Italian and French assay marks for 18k gold, is set with a white cultured pearl, measuring approximately 11.73 x 12.11 mm and 11.75 x 12.14 mm respectively as centerpiece, highlighted by black onyx, a bezel-set square-cut tourmaline at the base and top of the pear-shaped earclips, and brilliant-cut diamonds, surrounding the centerpiece right round the clip.
The Cultured pearls have white body color with rosé and green overtones and a few surface blemishes.
The Tourmalines are well matched in color. The Diamonds are bright and lively. The Onyx is in overall good condition. Total gross weight approximately 48 grams.
NATURAL PEARL LOT
LOT 802 – PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCHES – with an estimate of CHF 10,000 – 15,000 (USD 10,120 – 15,180) a significant Natural Pearl Lot. Each of the natural pearl and diamond brooches, of perfectly matching symmetrical design, has a collet-set circular-cut diamond rosette centered around a white button-shaped natural pearl, adjacent to another imaginary design with a smaller button-shaped pearl next to the rosette, followed by two diamond-set circular arches above and below, ending on either side with collet-set circular-cut diamonds, and a quadrat of collet-set circular-cut diamonds at the center, adjacent to the button-shaped pearl. At the points where the two motifs meet a single collet-set circular-cut diamond is placed, which almost completes a second rosette around the smaller button-shaped pearl.
SSEF report no. 99765, states that the four button-shaped pearls weighing 4.96, 4.36, 2.79 and 2.69 carats, measuring 8.64 – 8.87 x 8.19, 8.34 – 8.53 x 7.91, 7.60 – 8.50 x 6.21 and 7.40 – 8.24 x 6.31 mm respectively, were found to be natural and of saltwater origin. The natural pearls have a slightly creamy body color, with partly rosé and green overtones and few surface blemishes.
Estimated total weight of diamonds approximately 6.00 – 7.00 carats, average color-grade I-J color, and clarity-grade SI-I clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Total gross weight approximately 29 grams.