Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels Spring Sale is scheduled to take place on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in which 268 lots of exceptional jewels will be featured that include a thematic section dedicated to the Dolce Vita era along with pieces formerly owned by Doris Duke and Elizabeth Taylor, which demonstrates that jewels with distinguished provenance and a storied past will play a prominent part at the auctions. Apart from this signed pieces from renowned designers and jewelry houses, such as Belperon, Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, Mauboussin, Sabbadini, Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef & Arpels etc. will also feature at the auctions. The lots include colorless and colored diamond lots, colored gemstone lots such as Kashmir sapphires, Burma rubies, Colombian emeralds, as well as organic gemstones such as natural and cultured pearls, corals and mother-of-pearls.
Highlights of the auction have already been exhibited in several cities around the world, such as Rome, Milan, Hong Kong, London and New York and the final viewing will take place in Geneva from 12-17 May, 2017 at Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, 33 quai des Bergues, 1201 Geneva, the venue of the sale. Viewing times from May 12-16 will be from 10.00 am to 6.00 pm and on May 17, from 10.00 to 12.00 pm. The auction on May 17 will be held in two sessions. The first session starting at 2.30 pm will feature Lots 1 to 148 A and the second session starting at 6.30 pm will feature Lots 149 to 268.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Colorless diamond lots feature prominently at the auction and are among the top highlights of the sale. The sale will be led by a colorless diamond lot, featuring a fantastic 92 carat, D-Color, Flawless, heart-shaped diamond incorporated in a pendant necklace, with a cultured-pearl neck-chain, designed by Boehmer et Bassenge, the Maison de Haute Joaillerie launched in Paris in the year 2016 and named in honor of Charles Boehmer and Paul Bassenge, Parisian jewelers of the 18th century.
The lot titled, “LA LÉGENDE, A DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL SAUTOIR NECKLACE, BY BOEHMER ET BASSENGE,” and assigned Lot No. 228, with an estimate of CHF 14,000,000 – CHF 20,000,000 (USD 13,956,923 – USD 19,938,462), is set with the 92.15-carat, heart-shaped, D-Color, Flawless clarity diamond, mounted on platinum and via two collet-set circular-cut colorless diamonds is connected to the 93 cm (36.6 ins) cultured pearl sautoir. GIA report no. 5171874150 dated 20 September 2016, accompanying the lot states that the 92.15 carat diamond is D-Color, Flawless clarity, with excellent polish and excellent symmetry. Diamond Type Classification letter annexed to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms the D-color status of the diamond.
Other colorless diamond highlights include lots 262, 265, 227 an 233.
Lot 262 – A DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY CHOPARD – with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 5,000,000 – CHF 7,000,000 (USD 4,984,616 – USD 6,978,462) is the second highest valued colorless diamond lot of the sale. The 48 cm (18.9 ins) platinum and white gold pendant necklace, signed chopard, is set with a 56.03-carat, D-color, VVS2-clarity, pear-shaped detachable diamond, suspended as a pendant from a linear suspension consisting of five smaller pear-shaped diamonds placed end to end with the pointed end facing downwards. The pendant is attached to a neck-chain also made up of smaller pear-shaped diamonds placed end to end with the pointed end facing downwards. GIA report no. 2185188825 dated 24 February 2017, accompanying the lot states that the 56.03 carat diamond is D-Color and VVS2 clarity. A working diagram attached to the report indicates that the clarity of the diamond is potentially Internally Flawless. Diamond Type Classification letter accompanying the report states that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa.
Lot 265 – A SUPERB DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE – by Cartier is another outstanding colorless diamond lot with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 3,000,000 – CHF 5,000,000 (USD 2,990,769 – USD 4,984,616). The 38.5 cm (15.2 ins.) choker length platinum fringe necklace designed by Cartier consists of an elaborate front-half from which 11 fringes are suspended and a simple rear-half consisting of collet-set circular and square-cut diamond neck-chain with a secure clasp mounted with a rectangular-cut diamond. In the rear-half there are two sets of five circular-cut diamonds on either side interrupted by a square-cut diamond, and then a single set of two circular-cut diamonds on either side interrupted by a square-cut diamond and the clasp mounted with a rectangular-cut diamond.
The elaborate front-half of the necklace is connected to the rear-half by an elongated motif on either side, set with 12 pairs of baguette-cut diamonds and single-cut diamonds at the ends. This is followed by a scroll motif on either side set with single-cut diamonds and baguette-cut diamonds at the ends. The scroll motifs suspend the lower part of the necklace, consisting of a single row of 15 collet-set graduated circular-cut diamonds, with the largest circular-cut diamond at the center and 7 circular-cut diamonds on either side, gradually decreasing towards the rear. The 11 fringes are suspended from the lower end of the single row of collet-set circular-cut diamonds. The largest fringe arising from the lower end of the largest circular-cut diamond at the center, consists of a terminal large claw-set cushion-cut diamond, a central medium sized claw-set old-cut diamond and a basal small claw-set cushion-cut diamond, followed by a collet-set baguette-cut diamond with a hook for suspension from the central large circular-cut diamond. Fringes of matching length are placed symmetrically on either side of the central fringe, and consist of a linear triad of cushion and old-cut diamonds and a single baguette-cut diamonds.
Lot 227 is a another stunning piece by Maison Boehmer et Bassenge, a pair of chandelier earrings, with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 2,000,000 – CHF 3,000,000 (USD 1,989,231 – USD 2,983,846) and titled. “LA VIE BOHÈME – A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND COLORED DIAMOND CHANDELIER EARRINGS, BY BOEHMER ET BASSENGE.” Each of the white gold chandelier earrings has an asymmetrical bow at the top set with pink diamonds, with a pear-shaped colorless diamond connecting link weighing respectively 0.54 and 0.51 carats, which suspends the chandelier, consisting of a central marquise-cut colorless diamond, weighing respectively 10.07 and 10.05 carats, surrounded by a diamond-set design of the Boehmer et Bassenge logo, from which 11 diamond-set tassels are suspended. The central tassel with 5 circular-cut diaamonds and two baguette-cut diamonds is the longest. Five tassels on either side of the central tassel progressively decrease in size, tassels of equal length being placed symmetrically.
GIA reports bearing nos. 5171335192 and 5161633496 respectively, dated 26 February 2016, state that the 10.07 and 10.05 carat diamonds are D colour, Flawless clarity, with excellent polish and excellent symmetry. Diamond Type Classification letters attached to the reports state that the diamonds have been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms their D-color status. GIA reports nos. 2171598745 and 7222585587, dated 22 April 2016 and 11 May 2016 respectively state that the 0.54 and 0.51 carat diamonds are D colour and Internally Flawless clarity.
Lot 233 – A DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of CHF 1,950,000 – CHF 2,250,000 (USD 1,939,500 – USD 2,237,885) is another colorless diamond lot of the sale. The size 6 ½, platinum ring is claw-set with a round brilliant-cut, D-color, Flawless clarity diamond weighing 16.19 carats. The hoop of the ring is plain without any accent stones. GIA report no. 1172454214 dated 17 February 2016 states that the diamond is D colour, Flawless clarity, with excellent cut, polish and symmetry. Diamond Type Classification letter attached to the report states that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa, which confirms the D-color status of the diamond.
Based on estimates, the second most valued lot of the sale is a Ruby and diamond lot, with an estimate of CHF 10,000,000 – CHF 15,000,000 (USD 9,946,154 – USD 14,919,231), titled, “AN EXCEPTIONAL RUBY AND DIAMOND RING” and assigned lot no, 268. The size 5 ¾, white and yellow gold ring, claw-set with an oval-cut ruby, weighing approximately 15.03 carats, is highlighted by a single row of 10 round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds. The cushion-cut Ruby is a natural Burma Ruby with its characteristic “pigeon blood-red” color. The ten round brilliant-cut diamonds are colorless diamonds with F-Color (colorless) grade, and a clarity grade of VVS-1 to VS-2 clarity, Three lab reports by GGL, AGL and SSEF, numbered respectively, 17040012 , 1082230 and 91618 state that the origin of the RUBY is Burma, with no evidence of heat enhancement and possesses a richly saturated color typical of fine quality rubies, known in the trade as “pigeon blood red” color.
Other significant Ruby lots include lots 148, 231 and 263.
Lot 148 with an estimate of CHF 700,000 – CHF 1,000,000 (USD 696,754 – USD 995,363) is the second highest valued Ruby lot of the sale, titled, “AN IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘TROMBINO’ RING, BY BULGARI.” The size 4, yellow gold “Trombino Ring” signed Bulgari and named for its shape resembling a small trumpet, a design first created by Bulgari in the 1930s, has a wide yellow gold mount, claw-set at the center with an oval cabochon Burma ruby, weighing approximately 14.38 carats, with three baguette-cut colorless diamonds set on either side of the ruby, on the shoulders. The remaining part of the mount is pavé-set with colorless round brilliant-cut diamonds, forming a pavé-set diamond surround. SSEF report no. 65531 dated 22 October 2012, accompanying the lot, states that the origin of the ruby is Burma (Myanmar), with no indications of heating.
Lot 231 – A RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘TRÈFLE À QUATRE FEUILLES’ BROOCH, BY BOUCHERON, a Four Leaf Clover Brooch, designed by Boucheron in 1967 is another significant Ruby lot with an estimate of CHF 550,000 – CHF 750,000 (USD 547,450 – USD 746,522). The 5 cm, platinum and gold, four-leaf clover brooch is claw-set on gold, with an oval-cut ruby at the center of each petal. The four rubies of Burmese origin weigh respectively 3.75, 3.49, 3.20 and 3.04 carats, and are surrounded by pavé-set circular-cut colorless diamonds occupying the rest of the petals. The petals are centered around a pistil set with a colorless round brilliant-cut diamond. The stalk of the flower is set with baguette-cut colorless diamonds. SSEF report no. 90447 dated 28 February 2017 states that the rubies are of Burma origin, with no indications of heating, and that the color of the 3.20 carat ruby may also be called ‘pigeon blood red’ in the trade.
LOT 263 another significant ruby lot with an estimate of CHF 300,000 – CHF 500,000 (USD 298,609 – USD 497,682) is a stunning piece by Cartier, given the title “A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, BY CARTIER.” The 6 cm, platinum and yellow gold earrings designed in 1957 and signed Cartier Paris, are each set with a line of three rubies, cushion-cut, oval-cut and circular-cut, within a circular and baguette-cut colorless diamond surround. The scrolling surmount from which the line of rubies is supported, is set with circular and baguette-cut colorless diamonds. The diamonds are set on platinum and rubies on yellow gold. AGL report no. CS44951 dated 23 May 2011 states that the rubies are of Burma origin with no indications of heating. An appendix letter also attests to the rarity and prestige of these rubies.
COLORED DIAMOND LOTS
Significant Colored Diamond Lots include Lots 221, 204, 255 and 247.
Lot 221 is the 4th highest valued lot of the sale and the highest valued colored diamond lot, with an estimate of CHF 4,200,000 – CHF 5,200,000 (USD 4,180,525 – USD 5,175,889) and titled, “A COLORED DIAMOND RING.” The size 6 ¼ plain hoop platinum ring without any accent stones is claw-set with a single colored diamond on its mount, a fancy deep blue, VS1 clarity, cut-cornered square brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 4.05 carats. GIA report no. 5171955696 dated 14 October 2016 states that the diamond is Fancy Deep Blue color and VS1 clarity.
Lot 204, the second highest valued colored diamond lot of the sale with an estimate of CHF 2,500,000 – CHF 3,000,000 (USD 2,488,408 – USD 2,986,090) is also titled, “A COLORED DIAMOND RING.” The size 6 ½, platinum ring is claw-set with a 7.97-carat, fancy intense blue, VS1 clarity, cushion brilliant-cut diamond, flanked by baguette-cut colorless diamonds on its shoulders. GIA report no. 6187159503 dated 13 February 2017, accompanying the diamond states that the diamond is Fancy Intense Blue color and VS1 clarity.
Lot 247 – titled “A COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING,” with an estimate of CHF 550,000 – CHF 650,000 (USD 547,450 – USD 646,986) is another significant colored diamond lot. The size 6, platinum ring is set with two matching rectangular, cut-cornered step-cut diamonds, a 16.65-carat, fancy deep orange-brown, VS1 clarity diamond and a 16.38-carat, L-color (faint brown), VVS2 clarity diamond, between fancy-cut diamond shoulders. GIA report no. 1152089119 dated 12 November 2012, accompanying the lot, states that the 16.65 carat diamond is Fancy Deep Orange-Brown color and VS1 clarity. A second GIA report bearing no. 2155273791 dated 20 February 2013, in respect of the other matching diamond states that the 16.38 carat diamond is L Faint Brown color and VVS2 clarity.
Lot 176 – A COLORED DIAMOND AND COLORED SAPPHIRE RIVIÈRE NECKLACE AND EARRING SUITE, BY GRAFF – is another significant colored diamond lot with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 250,000 – CHF 350,000 (USD 248,841 – USD 348,377). The 39.5 cm (15.6 ins.) choker length, platinum and gold rivière necklace, signed Graff, is set alternately with 30 graduated cut-cornered rectangular-cut yellow diamonds and 30 oval-cut pink sapphires; the pink sapphires set on platinum and the yellow sapphires on yellow gold.
Seven GIA reports dated March to April 2017, in respect of seven yellow diamonds state as follows :-
1. Report No.12240481 – 3.07 carat,cut-cornered rectanguar-cut, fancy light yellow, VS1 clarity.
2. Report No.11942787 – 2.35-carat,cut-cornered rectangular-cut, fancy light yellow, VS1 clarity.
3. Report No.11932057 – 2.09-carat,cut-cornered rectangular-cut, fancy yellow, SI2 clarity.
4. Report No.12256679 -1.88-carat,cut-cornered rectangular-cut, fancy yellow, IFclarity.
5. Report No.12144412 – 1.78-carat,cut-cornered rectangular-cut, fancy yellow, SI1 clarity.
6. Report No.12045602 – 1.59-carat,cut-cornered rectangular-cut, fancy light yellow,VS2 clarity.
7. Report No.11932152 – 1.52-carat,cut-cornered rectangular-cut, fancy yellow, VS1 clarity.
The remaining 23 yelllow diamonds have not been tested for natural color origin.
GGL report no. 17030069/1 to 6 dated 23 March 2017, states that the origin of 6 pink sapphires is Madagascar, with indications of heating.
The matching pair of earrings of the Graff Suite, 3 cm in length are set with 3 oval-cut pink sapphires and 2 cut-cornered rectangular-cut yellow sapphires, alternating with one another, the pink sapphires set on platinum and the yellow sapphires on yellow gold.
BLUE SAPPHIRE LOTS
Among the significant blue sapphire lots are Lots 267, 199 and 78.
Lot 267 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with a pre-sale estimate of CHF 1,000,000 – CHF 1,500,000 (USD 995,363 – USD 1,493,045) is the highest valued blue sapphire lot of the sale. The size 5 ¼, platinum ring is set with a 14.88-carat, cushion-shaped Kashmir blue sapphire, with its characteristic cornflower blue color, flanked by trapeze-cut diamonds mounted on the shoulders of the ring.
SSEF report no. 90710 dated 7 March 2017, accompanying the ring, states that the origin of the sapphire is Kashmir, with no evidence of heat enhancement. An appendix letter accompanying the report states that this sapphire is “characterized by an attractive blue color and an excellent purity, a combination rarely encountered in sapphires from Kashmir of this size.”
AGL report no. 1081357 dated 27 January 2017, confirms that the origin of the sapphire is Kashmir, with no gemological evidence of heat and no clarity enhancement.
Lot 199 – A SAPPHIRE RING – with an estimate of CHF 600,000 – CHF 800,000 (USD 597,218 – USD 796,291) is the second most valued blue sapphire lot of the sale. The size 4, platinum ring of simple design without any accent stones, has a plain bifurcated hoop, which supports the platinum mount on which a 47.63-carat, antique cushion-shaped, Burma blue sapphire is mounted, secured by an eight-pronged setting. SSEF report no. 88983 dated 6 December 2016 states that the origin of the sapphire is Burma (Myanmar), with no indications of heating.
Lot 78 is another significant sapphire lot, with an estimate of CHF 540,000 – CHF 640,000 (USD 537,496 – USD 637,032) and titled, “A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING.” The size 6, platinum and gold ring is set with a 12.33-carat, cushion-shaped Kashmir blue sapphire flanked by pear-shaped colorless diamonds set on the shoulders of the ring. GGL report no. 15097208 dated 17 September 2015 accompanying the lot, states that the origin of the sapphire is Kashmir, with no indications of heating. A second report by SSEF bearing no. 80828 and dated 26 June 2015, confirms that the origin of the sapphire is Kashmir, with no indications of heating.