Bonhams London Knightsbridge September Jewelry Sale has been scheduled to be held at their Knightsbridge saleroom, the second London saleroom situated in the fashionable Knightsbridge area on Montpelier Street across from Harrods, on Wednesday, 12th September, 2018, starting at 11.00 BST. A total of 447 Lots will be on offer at this auction, consisting of an array of jewels including bracelets, brooches, earrings, necklaces, rings etc. set with colored and colorless diamonds, colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires etc. and organic gemstones such as natural and cultured pearls, corals, mother-of-pearl and seed pearls. The auction will be preceded by viewings of the lots at the same venue from Sunday, 9th September, 2018 to Wednesday, 12th September, 2018, viewing times being 11.00 to 15.00 BST on the 9th September; 09.30 to 16.30 BST on 10th and 11th September and 09.00 to 10.00 BST on 12th September, 2018.
COLORLESS DIAMOND LOTS
Significant Colorless Diamond Lots include Lots 427, 426 and 431.
LOT 427 – A DIAMOND SINGLE-STONE RING – with an estimate of £ 15,000 – 20,000 (€ 17,000 – 22,000) is one of the top colorless diamond lots of the sale. Ring size O, platinum ring with London hallmark, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped, H-Color, VS2-clarity diamond, weighing 3.05 carats. GIA report number 7208064333, dated 26th May 2015, accompanying the lot states that the diamond is H-Color and VS2-Clarity.
LOT 426 – A DIAMOND SINGLE-STONE RING – with an estimate of £ 12,000 – 15,000 (€ 13,000 – 17,000) is another significant colorless diamond lot. Ring size L½ platinum ring, with partial UK hallmark and European Convention Mark, is claw-set with a rectangular step-cut/emerald-cut, D-Color, VVS2-Clarity diamond weighing 2.01 carats. GIA report number 6167079813, dated 23rd April 2014, accompanying the lot states that the diamond is D-Color and VVS2-Clarity.
LOT 431 – A DIAMOND THREE-STONE RING – is another significant lot with an estimate of £ 10,000 – 15,000 (€ 11,000 – 17,000). Ring size K, platinum ring, with London hallmark, is claw-set with a cushion-shaped diamond flanked by two trilliant-cut diamonds. The cushion-cut diamond weighs 2.05 carats and the total weight of the two trilliant-cut is approximately 1.10 carats.
LOT 318 – AN ART DECO DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1930 – with an estimate of £ 3,000 – 4,000 (€ 3,300 – 4,500) is a significant Colorless Diamond Lot in terms of its unique design. The platinum brooch of length 6.0 cm is designed as a cushion-shaped plaque of openwork design, flanked by scrolling bombé accents, set throughout with old brilliant, single and baguette-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 9.35 carats.
COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS
LOT 302 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING – with an estimate of £ 7,000 – 9,000 (€ 7,800 – 10,000) is one of the top sapphire lots of the sale. Ring size N white metal ring with Austrian assay marks is partially bezel-set on either side with a cushion-shaped sapphire between shoulders pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 0.70 carats.
GRS report number GRS2015-037547, dated 23rd March 2015, states that the sapphire weighing 28.95 carats (indicated by client) is natural, of Sri Lankan origin.
GCS report number 78162-03, dated 14th June 2018, states that the sapphire weighing 28.95 carats (indicated by client) is natural, of Madagascan origin, with indications of heating.
LOT 444 – A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND FLORAL EARCLIPS – with an estimate of £ 6,000 – 8,000 (€ 6,700 – 8,900) is among the significant sapphire lots of the sale. The earclips of length 2.9 cm each, with hinged post fittings are designed as flowerheads, with a single round brilliant-cut diamond set as the stigma, surrounded by four petals, one opposite pair set with pear-shaped diamonds and the other opposite pair set with pear-shaped sapphires. The four leaves outside are set with baguette-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 4.50 carats
LOT 337 – A SAPPHIRE RING – with an estimate of £ 5,000 – 7,000 (€ 5,600 – 7,800) is another significant sapphire lot of the sale. Ring size M yellow gold ring is double claw-set with an oval-cut Madagascar sapphire, weighing 9.90 carats, between shoulders with engraved detailing. GCS report number 78165-52, dated 20th June 2018, states that the sapphire is of Madagascan origin, with no indications of heating. AnchorCert report number 235585/20038071, dated 19th April 2018 states that the sapphire is of Sri Lankan/Madagascan origin with no evidence of treatment.
LOT 443 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND DRESS RING, circa 1940 – with an estimate of £ 4,000 – 6,000 (€ 4,500 – 6,700) is another sapphire lot of the sale. Ring size K, rhodium plated ring is bezel-set at the center with four square step-cut sapphires, flanked on either side by square step-cut diamonds on the shoulders with rows of baguette-cut diamonds on the sides of the upper hoop of the ring.
LOT 306 – A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS – with an estimate of £ 2,500 – 3,000 (€ 2,800 – 3,300) is a Ruby Lot in the sale.
Each of the pair of yellow gold pendant earrings, 3.5 cm long, has a pendant set with an oval-cut ruby, accented by five round brilliant-cut diamonds set in a V-shape below and a single round brilliant-cut diamond above, suspended from a surmount also set with an oval-cut ruby within a yellow gold loop, and accented by three round brilliant-cut diamonds below and a single round brilliant-cut diamond above. Total weight of diamonds 2.40 carats.
LOT 418 – A RUBY AND DIAMOND DRESS RING – is another significant colored gemstone ring, with an estimate of £ 1,500 – 2,000 (€ 1,700 – 2,200).
Ring size K ½ yellow gold ring with French assay mark, is of bombé design, claw-set with a pear-shaped ruby, within a pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond surround. Total weight of diamonds approximately 0.75carat.
GCS report number 78174-17, dated 13th August 2018, states that the ruby is of Thai origin, with no indications of heat treatment.
LOT 413 – AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING – is a significant colored gemstone emerald lot with an estimate of £ 4,000 – 6,000 (€ 4,500 – 6,700).
Ring size N½, yellow gold ring is double claw-set with an octagonal step-cut/emerald-cut emerald, flanked on either side by trilliant-cut diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. Total weight of diamonds approx. 0.55 carsts.
GCS report number 78174-18, dated 13th August 2018, states that the emerald weighing approximately 4.50 carats is of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement, accepted in the trade.
LOT 382 – AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDANT/BROOCH – with an estimate of £ 4,000 – 6,000 (€ 4,400 – 6,700) is another significant emerald lot.
The detachable drop-shaped pendant/brooch of length 5.6 cm is of openwork design with two drop-shaped rows set with old brilliant-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, the open space between the two rows set with collet-set old round brilliant-cut diamonds and a foliate surmount, also set with old brilliant-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, suspending a central emerald drop by a bell-cap arrangement also set with old brilliant-cut diamonds. The detachable bar brooch of similar design, is also set throughout with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 3.55 carats.
OTHER COLORED GEMSTONE LOTS
COLORED GEMSTONE BROOCH
LOT 420 – A GEM-SET NOVELTY BROOCH – is a beautiful colored gemstone-set novelty brooch, with an estimate of £ 1,500 – 2,000 (€ 1,700 – 2,200). The brooch of length 5.0 cm is designed as a tropical fish with the head and operculum set with amethyst and the eye set with a circular-cut ruby. The scales on the body and fins, including the tail fin, are set with caliber-cut, variously shaped amethyst, tourmaline and peridot cabochons. The body of the fish is further accented by rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 3.80 carats
LOT 415 – AN AMETHYST RIVIÈRE NECKLACE – with an estimate of £ 2,000 – 3,000 (€ 2,200 – 3,300) is a beautiful and significant colored gemstone lot of the sale. The 35.6 cm (14 ins), choker-length rivière necklace is claw-set with a pear-shaped amethyst as centerpiece and eight graduated circular-cut amethysts on either side of it, linked by yellow gold links.
LOT 396 – AN AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND RING, by Margherita Burgener – with an estimate of £ 4,000 – 6,000 (€ 4,400 – 6,700) is one of the significant colored gemstone lots incorporating a rectangular-cut aquamarine. Ring size N½, white metal ring, signed Margherita Burgener is double claw-set with a rectangular-cut aquamarine, highlighted by a surround of round brilliant-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 1.35 carats.
LOT 362 – AN AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND CLUSTER RING AND A PAIR OF AQUAMARINE, CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS – is another significant Aquamarine Lot with an estimate of £ 4,000 – 6,000 (€ 4,400 – 6,600).
Ring size J, white metal ring with French import marks, is bezel-set with an oval-cut aquamarine highlighted by a surround of round brilliant-cut diamonds, the shoulders and upper hoop of the ring also set with round brilliant-cut diamonds.
Each of the matching pair of earclips of length 3.2 cm, also inscribed with French import marks, is claw-set with an oval-cut aquamarine highlighted by a round brilliant-cut surround, suspending a near-spherical or oval-shaped cultured pearl of dimensions 10.4 mm x 10.0 mm or 11.2 mm x 10.1 mm respectively. Total weight of diamonds in both the ring and pair of earclips is approximately 3.20 carats
LOT 359 – A PAIR OF CITRINE AND DIAMOND PENDANT EARRINGS – with an estimate of £ 1,200 – 1,500 (€ 1,300 – 1,700) is among the Citrine Lots of the sale. Each of the pair of pendant earrings 4.8 cm long has a surmount designed as a flower head set with four pear-shaped citrines and a brilliant-cut diamond stigma, suspending a briolette-cut citrine, by a bellcap also set with diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 0.30 carats.
LOT 356 – A MORGANITE AND DIAMOND RING, by Margherita Burgener – with an estimate of £ 3,000 – 4,000 (€ 3,300 – 4,400) is a rare morganite (beryl) lot of the sale. Ring size L, white metal ring signed Margherita Burgener, is double claw-set with a pear-shaped morganite (pink beryl) highlighted by a surround of brilliant-cut diamonds. The gallery and openwork band is also partially set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 1.40 carats
LOT 411 – A TURQUOISE BRACELET AND RING – with an estimate of £ 2,000 – 3,000 (€ 2,200 – 3,300) is among the semi-precious colored gemstone lots of the sale. The bracelet of length 19.5 cm is designed as a series of finely wrought rectangular panels of scrollwork design, each set with three pear-shaped turquoise.
Ring size N, of dome bombe design with scrollwork similar to the bracelet is set with several cabochon turquoise, with a large central cabochon turquoise surrounded by several smaller cabochon turquoise.
LOT 341 – A GEM-SET NECKLACE, CIRCA 1850 – with an estimate of £ 800 – 1,000 (€ 890 – 1,100) is another turquoise lot of the sale. The 43.4 cm (17 ins) necklace is designed as a silver and gold fancy-link chain, suspending a heart-shaped pendant, 4.7 cm in length, pave-set with turquoise cabochons around a bezel-set heart-shaped ruby in the center. A silver and gold bird motif, designed as a dove in mid-flight with turquoise cabochon plummage, the head set with a 3.6 mm pearl, the eyes accented by circular ruby cabochons, is fixed to the fancy-link chain at the point of suspension of the heart-shaped pendant.
NATURAL PEARL LOTS
LOT 407 – A MID 19TH CENTURY PEARL AND SEED PEARL DEMI-PARURE, retailed by Tiffany is a significant natural pearl lot of the sale, with an estimate of £ 4,000 – 6,000 (€ 4,400 – 6,700). The demi-parure consists of a necklace, bracelet, brooch and a pair of pendant earrings.
Length 43.7 cm (17.2 ins) Princess length necklace is designed as a graduating series of tiered oval and circular clusters of pearls, the center of each cluster depending on its size, set with 1 to 3 larger spherical pearls, surrounded by 2 to 4 tiers of smaller spherical pearls, in turn surrounded by seed pearls. The front lower half of the necklace suspends a trio of seed pearl set swags. The swag from the central large circular cluster suspends an oval tiered cluster drop, from a foliate surmount also set with pearls and seed pearls. The necklace is set throughout with pearls and seed pearls, woven onto mother-of-pearl.
The bracelet of length 18.1 cm is of matching design with the necklace is made of three circular tiered clusters of spherical pearls, centering around three large spherical pearls, the central large cluster having four tiers of pearls and the two smaller clusters on either side having three tiers of pearls, surrounded in turn by seed pearls. The clusters are connected by three multiple rows of seed pearls, and a floral motif set with pearls and seed pearls on either side of the central cluster and a single floral motif between the clasp and the smaller cluster on either side.
The brooch of length 8.0 cm is set with a single circular cluster centering around a linear row of three large pearls, and the cluster made of four rows of spherical pearls, surrounded in turn by seed pearls. A swag of pearls and seed pearls arising from outside the upper circular cluster suspends an oval tiered cluster drop of pearls and seed pearls from a foliate surmount also set with pearls and seed pearls.
Each of the pair of pendant earrings of matching design with other components of the parure, 5 cm in length, has an oval tiered cluster drop of pearls and seed pearls, suspended from a foliate surmount also set with pearls and seed pearls and provided with a terminal hook for suspension.
The demi-parure is provided with a fitted leather case with tooled initials, M.A.R., by Tiffany & Co., New York.
LOT 436 – A PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH/PENDANT, circa 1890 – is one of the natural pearl lots of the sale, with an estimate of £ 1,200 – 1,500 (€ 1,300 – 1,700). The brooch designed as a rosette of round natural pearls and round old brilliant-cut diamonds, is bezel-set in the center with a circular natural half-pearl of diameter 7.0 mm, surrounded by a row of claw-set old brilliant-cut diamonds, framed on the outside by six alternating near-round natural pearls of dimensions 5.2 mm x 4.5 mm and six alternating old brilliant-cut diamond trefoils. Total weight of diamonds approximately 0.40 carats. The brooch of length 2.3 cm has detachable brooch fittings.
GCS report number 78147-15, dated 14th August 2018, states that the pearls are natural, saltwater, with no indications of treatment.
CULTURED PEARL LOTS
LOT 380 – A TRIPLE-STRAND CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, A CULTURED PEARL NECKLACE, AND A CULTURED PEARL BRACELET – with an estimate of £ 800 – 1,200 (€ 890 – 1,300) is a Cultured Pearl Lot from the sale.
The triple strand cultured pearl necklace with the shortest inner-most strand having a length of 41.5 cm (16.34 ins), equivalent to a Princess length necklace, is made up of graduated cultured pearls decreasing in size from the front to the rear of the necklace and ranging from 3.5 mm to 6.9 mm in diameter, with the clasp behind set with rose-cut diamonds of various sizes and shapes.
The single strand cultured pearl necklace of length 46.5 cm (18.3 cm) equivalent to a Princess length necklace, is made up of a single row of graduated spherical cultured pearls, with white body color and pink overtones, ranging in size from 3.8 mm to 8.3 mm. The openwork clasp behind is millegrain-set with old brilliant-cut diamonds.
The triple strand bracelet of length 18 cm (7.1 ins), divided into three segments, is composed of graduated spherical cultured pearls, with white body color and pink overtones, decreasing in size from the center of the bracelet towards the plain clasps on either side, and ranging in size from 3.0 mm to 5.6 mm.
LOT 363 – A ROSE QUARTZ AND CULTURED PEARL MULTI-STRAND NECKLACE – with an estimate of £ 1,000 – 1,500 (€ 1,100 – 1,700) is another Cultured Pearl Lot of the sale. Length 39.8 cm (15.7 ins) choker length, multi-strand cultured pearl necklace is composed of spherical and near-spherical cultured pearls of pinkish-white body color, varying in diameter from 3.5 mm to 3.8 mm, suspending a carved rose quartz pendant depicting fruiting foliage, from a surmount, with the upper suspending ring of the surmount set with two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, and a 8.9 mm spherical cultured pearl set between the upper and lower suspending rings. The pendant of length 6.6 cm has a slight damage at the upper end of the carved rose quartz fruiting foliage, secured with pink cord.
LOT 315Y – A CORAL AND DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE AND A PAIR OF CORAL AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS – with an estimate of £ 1,200 – 1,800 (€ 1,300 – 2,000) is among the organic gemstone lots in the sale.
The trace-link chain necklace of length 40.6 cm suspends a coral and diamond pendant, of length 8.2 cm, designed as a kite-shaped coral plaque carved as a floral and foliate design, accented at the bottom by three old brilliant-cut diamonds, suspended by a linear metal surmount from a square-shaped carved coral plaque, linked on adjacent sides to the trace-link chain. The species of coral used Corallium rubrum.
Each of the pair of coral and diamond earclips, 2.5 cm long consists of a carved elongated trapezoid coral plaque of floral design, accented on one side by old brilliant-cut diamonds. Total weight of diamonds approximately 1.35 carats.
METALS ONLY LOTS
YELLOW GOLD LOTS
LOT 372 – A TANK BRACELET, FRENCH, CIRCA 1940 – with an estimate of £ 2,500 – 3,500 (€ 2,800 – 3,900) is a significant metal only yellow gold lot. The French designed yellow gold bracelet of length 16.6 cm, designed around year 1940, with French assay marks, is made up of a series of raised sculptural triangular links. The links in the middle are broader than the links on either side bordering the bracelet.